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OF  CALIFORNIA 

AGRICULTURE 
BEQUEST 

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http://www.arcliive.org/details/cookingmanualofpOOcorsricli 


THE 


COOKING   MANUAL 


OF 


PRACTICAL  DIRECTIONS   FOR  ECONOMICAL 
EVERY-DAY  COOKERY. 


BY 

JULIET    CORSON. 

SUPERINTENDENT  OF   THE  NEW  YORK   COOKING  SCHOOL. 


**  How  well  can  we  live,  if  we  are  moderately  poorf" 


NEW   YORK: 

DODD,     MEAD    &    COMPANY, 

751  BROADWAY. 

1877. 


Copyright 
BY    JULIET    CORSON 

1877. 


AGRiOliTURF 
GIFT 


AGRIC 
LIBRARY 


PREFACE. 


This  book  is  intended  for  the  use  of  those  house- 
keepers and  cooks  who  wish  to  know  how  to  make 
the  most  wholesome  and  palatable  dishes  at  the  least 
possible  cost.  In  cookery  this  fact  should  be  re- 
membered above  all  others ;  a  good  cook  never 
WASTES.  It  is  her  pride  to  make  the  most  of  every- 
thing in  the  shape  of  food  entrusted  to  her  care  ;  and 
her  pleasure  to  serve  it  in  the  most  appetizing  form. 
In  no  other  way  can  she  prove  her  excellence ;  for 
poor  cooks  are  always  wasteful  and  extravagant. 

Housekeepers  can  safely  make  this  book  a  guide 
for  those  of  their  cooks  who  are  willing  to  learn  new 
and  good  methods  of  cooking  familiar  foods.  Lest 
it  should  be  said  that  undue  preference  is  given  to 
foreign  ways  of  cooking,  the  author  begs  her  readers 
to  remember  how  much  of  the  success  of  any  dish 
depends  upon  its  taste  ;  if  it  is  well-flavored,  and 
palatably  seasoned,  the  eaters  of  it  do  not  closely 
criticise  its  component  parts.  It  is  just  there  that 
benefit  is  derived  from  European  culinary  skill ;  the 
judicious  use  of  a  few  inexpensive  sweet  herbs,  and 
savory  sauces,  will  raise  a  side  dish,  made  from  the 
cheapest  cut  of  meat,  in  gustatory  excellence  far 

i        154 


PREFACE. 


above  a  badly  cooked  porterhouse  steak,  or  a  large 
but  poorly  flavored  roast.  Because  the  art  of  utiliz- 
ing every  part  of  food  is  eminently  French,  the  New 
York  Cooking  School  plan  has  been  to  adapt  for- 
eign thrift  to  home  kitchen  use.  To  provide  enough 
at  each  meal ;  to  cook  and  serve  it  so  as  to  invite 
appetite ;  to  make  a  handsome  and  agreeable  dish 
out  of  the  materials  which  the  average  cook  would 
give  away  at  the  door,  or  throw  among  the  garbage  ; 
all  are  accomplishments  that  our  American  wives  and 
daughters  will  be  glad  to  learn  from  their  European 
sisters. 

The  day  has  passed  for  regarding  cooking  as  a 
menial  and  vulgar  labor ;  and  those  who  give  some 
thought  to  their  daily  food  usually  gain  in  vigor  and 
cheerfulness.  It  is  a  truism  that  food  is  concen- 
trated force.  The  manipulation  of  a  motive  power 
capable  of  invigorating  both  body  and  mind,  is  an 
occupation  worthy  to  employ  intelligence  and  skill. 
In  countries  where  the  people  depend  upon  meagre 
supplies  this  art  is  brought  to  perfection.  The 
pot-au-feu  of  France  and  Switzerland,  the  olla  pod- 
rida  of  Spain,  the  borsch  of  Poland,  the  tschi  of 
Russia,  the  macaroni  of  Italy,  the  crowdie  of  Scotland, 
all  are  practical  examples  of  this  fact.  In  no  coun- 
try in  the  world  is  there  such  an  abundance  of  food 
as  in  America ;  all  the  needful  ingredients  for  mak- 
ing these  national  dishes,  or  their  equivalents,  can 
be  found  in  the  markets  of  our  cities,  and  most  of 
them  are  the  products  of  this  country.  This  being 
true,   there   is   no   reason   why   American   cookery 


PREFACE. 


should  be  so  comparatively  limited — why  the  ques- 
tion of  "  what  shall  we  have  for  dinner  to-day  ?  " 
should  be  the  despair  of  the  inexperienced  house- 
keeper. If  in  no  other  land  is  there  such  profusion 
of  food,  certainly  in  none  is  so  much  wasted  from 
sheer  ignorance,  and  spoiled  by  bad  cooking.  In 
Europe  provinces  would  live  upon  what  towns  waste 
here.  The  very  herbs  of  the  field  in  the  hands  of  a 
skilful  cook  can  be  transformed  into  palatable  and 
nutritious  viands.  The  plainest  and  cheapest  ma- 
terials can  be  prepared  for  the  table  in  an  appetizing 
and  satisfactory  form.  Let  our  readers  test  this  fact 
by  cooking  according  to  the  receipt  any  dish  named 
in  tlie  chapter  upon  "Cheap  Dishes  without 
Meat,"  and  the  author  will  stake  her  culinary 
reputation  that  the  food  so  prepared  will  be  both 
palatable  and  nourishing. 

Many  persons  regard  the  practice  of  serving  sev- 
eral dishes  at  a  meal  as  troublesome  and  expensive. 
The  first  objection  may  hold  good ;  but  the  best 
results  in  any  direction  are  never  gained  without 
trouble.  The  second  is  wholly  untenable ;  soup, 
fish,  vegetables,  and  bread,  are  all  less  costly  than 
heavy  joints  of  meat ;  if  hunger  can  be  partly  satis- 
fied on  them,  and  it  is  true  that  a  thick  slice  of  bread 
and  a  bowl  of  soup  will  content  the  hungriest 
stomach,  less  meat  will  be  required,  and  consequently 
less  expense  incurred.  This  is  an  excellent  reason 
why  the  housewife  should  not  spend  the  bulk  of  her 
market  money  on  a  large  roast  of  beef,  or  a  leg  of 
mutton,  but  should  rather  divide  the  amount  among 


PREFACE. 


the  different  dishes  of  soup,  fish,  a  ragout^  or  stew 
of  some  cheap  cut  of  meat,  and  a  few  vegetables ; 
and  now  and  then  indulge  in  a  plain  pudding,  or  a 
little  fruit  for  dessert.  With  judicious  marketing 
and  proper  cooking,  the  food  of  our  well-to-do 
classes  might  be  made  far  better  than  two-thirds  of 
that  now  served  on  the  tables  of  the  wealthy ;  and 
the  poor  might  learn  that  their  scrag-end  of  mutton 
would  furnish  them  with  at  least  three  dishes.  To 
forward  in  some  measure  this  result,  the  present  col- 
lection of  Cooking  School  receipts  is  offered  to  the 
public,  with  the  assurance  that  every  one  given  has 
been  tested  by  the  author,  and  is  complete  in  every 
detail,  as  economical  as  care  and  use  can  make  it, 
and  plain  enough  for  ordinary  households.  The 
quantities  mentioned  in  the  various  receipts  are  cal- 
culated to  serve  for  a  family  of  eight  persons,  when 
two  or  more  dishes  constitute  a  dinner,  with  the 
addition  of  soup ;  of  course  when  only  one  dish  is 
to  form  the  meal,  with  bread  and  vegetables,  a  larger 
quantity  must  be  allowed. 

Communications  from  all  parts  of  the  country 
state  that  the  principles  of  kitchen  economy  as  taught 
in  the  New  York  Cooking  School  and  widely  dis- 
seminated by  the  press,  have  been  put  into  practice 
in  many  families,  to  the  great  improvement  of  health 
and  temper;  for  an  illy  fed  man  can  neither  be 
strong  nor  cheerful;  the  hours  spent  at  table  should 
be  full  of  harmony  and  content,  or  the  meal  will  fail 
to  meet  the  requirements  of  the  body.  The  question 
of  the  hour  is  "  How  well  can  we  live,  if  we  are  mod- 


PREFACE, 


erately  poor  ? "  The  author  of  The  Cooking 
School  Manual  is  doing  her  best  to  answer  it  sat- 
isfactorily. She  has  worked  earnestly  in  a  compara- 
tively new  field  of  labor,  and  she  prays  that  strong 
hands  may  unite  in  the  effort  to  show  how  excellent 
a  thing  it  is  to  make  the  best  and  most  of  the  bounti- 
ful supply  our  country's  teeming  bosom  bears  at 
every  harvest  tide. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   I. 

General  Rules  for  Marketing. 


PAGE 


Meats— Poultry — Game — Fish — Vegetables — Fruit — Sweet 

Herbs I5 

CHAPTER  II. 

Soup. 

General  Stock — Flavoring,  thickening,  and  coloring  Soups 
— Consomme — Vermicelli  and  Macaroni  Soup — Rice 
and  Tomato  Soup — Scotch  Broth  without  Meat — 
Scotch  Broth  with  Meat — Spinach  Soup — Sorrel  Soup 
— Pea  Soup — Lentil  Soup 22 

CHAPTER  III. 
Fish. 

Baked  Blackfish— Broiled  Shad  with  Maitre  d^ hotel  But- 
ter— Fried  Smelts — Fillet  of  Sole  au  gratiit — Fish 
Chowder,  St.  James  style — Club  House  Fish  Cakes — 
Sardine  Sandwiches — Warmed  up  Boiled  Fish,  with 
Dutch  Sauce 31 


lO  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   IV. 
Relishes. 

PAGE 

Anchovies — Sardines — Pickled  Herrings— Scalloped  Oys- 
ters—Welsh Rarebit — Golden  Buck — Mock  Crab- 
English  Bread  and  Butter — Epicurean  Butter 37 

CHAPTER  V. 

Side  Dishes  or  Entrees. 

Beef  Steak,  with  Parisian  Potatoes — Plain  Rump  Steak — 
Portuguese  Beef — Bubble  and  Squeak — Stewed  Kid- 
neys— Haricot  or  Stew  of  Mutton — Epigramme  of 
Lamb  with  Piquante  Sauce — Spanish  Sauce — Krom- 
eskys  with  Spanish  Sauce — Sheep's  Tongues  with 
Spinach — Broiled  Sheep's  Kidneys — Liver  Rolls — 
Fried  Brains  with  Tomato  Sauce — Calf's  Liver 
larded — Blanquette  of  Veal — Stuffed  Breast  of  Veal 
— Pork  Cutlets  with  Robert  Sauce — Pork  Chops  with 
Curry  —  Broiled  Pigs'  Feet— English  Pork  Pie- 
Fried  Chicken,  Spanish  Style  —  Chicken  Fricassee 
— Grilled  Fowl — Minced  Chicken  with  Macaroni — 
Broiled  Pigeons — Salmi  of  Duck — Civet  of  Hare — Jug- 
ged Hare — Stuffed  Eggs — How  to  make  Omelettes — 
Plain  Omelette  —  Omelette  with  fine  Herbs — Omelette 
with  Ham— Omelette  with  Oysters— Omelette  with 
Mushrooms — Spanish  Omelette — Oriental  Omelette 
— Omelette  with  Preserves — How  to  cook  Macaroni 
— Macaroni    with  Be'chamel  Sauce — Macaroni  Milan- 


CONTENTS.  II 


aise   Style — Macaroni   with   Tomato  Sauce — Timbale 

of  Macaroni,  with  Vanilla  Cream  Sauce 41 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Large  Roasts. 

Roast  Beef  with  Yorkshire  Pudding — Roast  Loin  of  Veal 
stuffed — Roast  Lamb  with  Mint  Sauce — Roast  Pork 
with  Apple  Sauce  —  Roast  Turkey  with  Cranberry 
Sauce  —  Roast  Chicken  with  Duchesse  Potatoes — 
Roast  Duck  with  Watercresses — Roast  Goose  with 
Onion  Sauce  —  Roast  Wild  Duck  — 'Roast  Partridge 
with  Bread  Sauce 68 

CHAPTER  VII. 
Boiled  Meats. 

Leg  of  Mutton  with  Caper  Sauce — Boiled  Ham  with  Ma- 
deira Sauce  —  A  la  mode  Beef — Boiled  Fowl  with 
Oyster  Sauce 78 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
Salads  and  Salad   Sauces. 

Spring  Salad  —  Watercress  Salad — Mint  Salad — Cauli- 
flower Salad  —  Dandelion  Salad  —  Asparagus  Salad 
— Shad-roe  Salad — Green  Pea  Salad — Orange  Salad 
— Spinach  Salad — Tomato  Salad — Nasturtium  Salad 
— Cream  Dressing — English  Salad  Sauce  —  Remolade 


12  CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

—  Sweet  Sauce  —  Piquante  Salad  Sauce  —  Green 
Remolade — Oil  Sauce — Ravigote  Sauce  — Egg  Dress- 
ing— Anchovy  Salad  Sauce — Swiss  Dressing — Spring 
Dressing — Mayonnaise — Hot  Salad  Sauce — Romaine 
Salad  Dressing 83 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Vegetables. 


Asparagus  with  Melted  Butter  —  Green  Peas  —  String 
Beans  —  Baked  Beets  —  Brussels  Sprouts  —  Stuffed 
Cabbage — Red  Cabbage — Baked  Cauliflower — Baked 
Turnips  —  Glazed  Onions  —  Mushroom  Pudding  — 
Boiled  Potatoes  —  Lyonnaise  Potatoes  —  Stuffed  Po- 
tatoes —  Potato  Snow  —  Bermuda  Potatoes  —  Broiled 
Potatoes  —  Saratoga  Potatoes  —  Broiled  Tomatoes — 
Stuffed  Tomatoes — Fried  Beans — Ham  and  Beans — 
Kolcannon — Carrot  Stew — Baked  Mushrooms — Stuffed 
Lettuce — Stewed  Parsnips 91 

CHAPTER  X. 

Cheap  Dishes  without  Meat. 

Potato  Soup — Crowdie — Peas-pudding — Red  Herrings  with 
Boiled  Potatoes — Oatmeal  Porridge — Cheese  Pudding 
— Polenta — Fish  Pudding — Lentils — Stewed  Lentils 
— Fried  Lentils — Norfolk  Dumplings — Salt  Cod  with 
Parsnips — Pickled  Mackerel — Potato  Pudding loi 


CONTENTS.  13 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Cheap  Dishes  with  Meat. 

PACE 

Three  Dishes  from  a  Neck  of  Mutton — Barley  Broth 
with  Vegetables — Mutton  Stew  —  Fried  Pudding 
—  Neck  of  Pork  Stuffed  —  Pigs'  Feet  Fried  —  Pigs' 
Tongue  and  Brains — Roast  Tripe — Ragout  of  Haslet — 
Cock-a-leeky — Italian  Cheese — Gammon  Dumpling 
— Toad-in-the-hole  —  Bacon  Roly-Poly — Baked  Ox- 
heart — Tripe  and  Onions — Peas  and  Bacon — Pot-au- 
Feu — Ragout  of  Mutton 107 


CHAPTER    XII. 

THE    children's    CHAPTER. 

Oatmeal  Porridge — A  good  Breakfast — Stewed  Fruit — Ripe 
Currants  —  Blackberry  Jam  —  Baked  Fruit  —  Broiled 
Chops — Beefsteak — Broiled  Chicken — Boiled  Eggs — 
Baked  Potatoes — Boiled  Potatoes — Apple  Cake — Fruit 
Farina — Plain  Cookies — Plain  Gingerbread — Straw- 
berry Shortcake — Apple  Custard Il6 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

COOKERY  FOR  INVALIDS. 

Gruels  — Arrowroot  Gruel  — Arrowroot  Jelly  — Arrowroot 
Wine  Jelly — Calf  s-foot  Jelly — Sago  Gruel — Sago  Milk 
— Tapioca  Jelly — Rice  Caudle — Refreshing  Drinks — 


14  CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Filtered  Water — Jelly  Water — Flax-seed  Lemonade — 
Barley  Water — Nourishing  Drinks — Iceland  Moss — 
Chocolate — Egg  Broth — Egg  Tea — Very  Strong  Beef 
Tea — Quick  Beef  Tea  —  Farina  Gruel — Nutritious 
Foods — Bread  Jelly  —  Crackers  and  Marmalade  — 
Chicken  Jelly — Chicken  Broth — Beefsteak  Juice — Sal- 
mon Steak — Broiled  Oysters 125 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


BREAD. 


Aerated  Homemade  Bread — Homebrewed  Yeast — Home- 
made Bread  —  Milk  Bread  —  Rice  Bread  —  Potato 
Bread — Pulled  Bread — Baking  Powder — Loaf  Bread — 
Breakfast  Rolls — Tea  Biscuit — Finger  Biscuit — Cream 
Breakfast  Rolls — Breakfast  Twist — How  to  freshen 
stale  Bread — Toast 134 


THE     COOKING     MANUAL. 


CHAPTER     I. 
MARKETING. 

In  order  to  market  intelligently  and  economi- 
cally, we  must  bear  in  mind  the  three  great  divisions 
of  foods  generally  accepted  in  their  consideration, 
and  endeavor  to  adapt  them  to  the  requirements  of 
our  households ;  if  we  remember  that  carbonaceous, 
or  heat-giving  foods,  such  as  the  inner  part  of  the 
cereals,  fat  meat,  milk,  honey,  liver,  grapes,  peas, 
beans,  potatoes,  beets,  carrots,  and  parsnips,  are  the 
best  diet  for  hard  steady  workers,  and  for  invalids 
suffering  from  wasting  diseases  ;  that  nitrogenous,  or 
flesh-forming  foods,  such  as  lean  meat,  unbolted 
flour,  oatmeal,  eggs,  cheese,  cabbage,  cauliflower, 
onions,  spinach,  asparagus,  and  artichokes,  are 
most  suitable  for  those  who  work  rapidly  but  with 
intervals  of  rest ;  and  that  brain-workers  should  sub- 
sist chiefly  on  light  and  digestible  articles,  such  as 
fish,  oysters,  fruits,  game,  and  vegetables  containing 
mineral  salts  in  excess ;  we  can  arrange  the  daily 
marketing  so  as  to  give  a  pleasant  variety  and  at  the 
same  time  satisfy  all  appetites. 

Buy  only  small   quantities  of  perishable  things 


l6  THE    COOKING  MANUAL, 

such  as  green  vegetables,  fruit,  fish,  eggs,  cream,  and 
fresh  butter ;  buy  dry  groceries  and  preserved  stores 
in  quantities  large  enough  to  entitle  you  to  whole- 
sale prices ;  and  pay  cash  in  order  to  avail  yourself 
of  the  lowest  market  price.  Make  your  purchases 
as  early  in  the  day  as  possible  in  order  to  secure  a 
choice  of  fresh  articles ;  and  trade  with  respectable 
dealers  who  give  full  weight  and  honest  measure. 

Meats. — While  meats  are  in  season  all  the  year, 
they  are  better  at  stated  times ;  for  instance,  pork  is 
prime  in  late  autumn  and  winter;  veal  should  be 
avoided  in  summer  for  sanitary  reasons ;  and  even 
our  staples,  beef  and  mutton,  vary  in  quality.  The 
flesh  of  healthy  animals  is  hard  and  fresh  colored, 
the  fat  next  the  skin  is  firm  and  thick,  and  the  suet 
or  kidney-fat  clear  white  and  abundant ;  if  this  fat  is 
soft,  scant  and  stringy,  the  animal  has  been  poorly 
fed  or  overworked.  Beef  should  be  of  a  bright  red 
color,  well  marbled  with  yellowish  fat,  and  sur- 
rounded with  a  thick  outside  layer  of  fat ;  poor  beef 
is  dark  red,  and  full  of  gristle,  and  the  fat  is  scant  and 
oily.  Mutton  is  bright  red,  with  plenty  of  hard  white 
fat;  poor  mutton  is  dull  red  in  color,  with  dark, 
muddy-looking  fat.  Veal  and  pork  should  be  bright 
flesh  color  with  abundance  of  hard,  white,  semi- 
transparent  fat ;  when  the  fat  is  reddish  and  dark, 
the  meat  is  of  an  inferior  quality  ;  veal  and  pork 
should  be  eaten  very  fresh.  When  meat  of  any  kind 
comes  into  the  house  it  should  be  hung  up  at  once 
in  some  cool,  dark  place,  and  left  until  wanted. 

Poultry. — Fresh  poultry  may  be  known  by  its 


MARKETING.  17 


full  bright  eyes,  pliable  feet,  and  soft  moist  skin ;  the 
best  is  plump,  fat,  and  nearly  white,  and  the  grain 
of  the  flesh  is  fine.  The  feet  and  neck  of  a  young 
fowl  are  large  in  proportion  to  its  size,  and  the  tip 
of  the  breast-bone  is  soft,  and  easily  bent  between 
the  fingers  ;  the  body  of  a  capon  is  large,  fat,  and 
round,  the  head  comparatively  small,  and  the  comb 
pale  and  withered ;  a  young  cock,  has  short,  loose, 
soft  spurs,  and  a  long,  full,  bright  red  comb ;  old 
fowls  have  long,  thin  necks  and  feet,  and  the  flesh 
on  the  legs  and  back  has  a  purplish  shade  ;  chickens, 
capons,  and  fowls,  are  always  in  season. 

Turkeys  when  good  are  white  and  plump,  have 
full  breasts  and  smooth  legs,  generally  black,  with  soft, 
loose  spurs;  hen  turkeys  are  smaller,  fatter,  and 
plumper,  but  of  inferior  flavor ;  full  grown  turkeys 
are  the  best  for  boning  and  boiling,  as  they  do  not 
tear  in  dressing;  old  turkeys  have  long  hairs, and  the 
flesh  is  purplish  where  it  shows  under  the  skin  on 
the  legs  and  back.  About  March  they  deteriorate  in 
quality.     Turkey-poults  are  tender,  but  lack  flavor. 

Young  ducks  and  geese  are  plump,  with  light, 
semi-transparent  fat,  soft  breast-bone,  tender  flesh, 
leg  joints  which  will  break  by  the  weight  of  the  bird, 
fresh  colored  and  brittle  beaks,  and  windpipes  that 
break  when  pressed  between  the  thumb  and  fore- 
finger.    They  are  best  in  fall  and  winter. 

Young  pigeons  have  light  red  flesh  upon  the 
breast,  and  full,  fresh  colored  legs ;  when  the  legs 
are  thin,  and  the  breast  is  very  dark,  the  birds  are 
old.     Squabs  are  tender  and  delicious. 


THE    COOKING  MANUAL. 


The  giblets  of  poultry  consist  of  the  head,  neck, 
wings,  feet,  gizzard,  heart,  and  liver  ;  and  make  good 
soup,  fricassees,  pies,  and  various  entrees^  or  side 
dishes. 

Game. — Fine  game  birds  are  always  heavy  for 
their  size;  the  flesh  of  the  breast  is  firm  and  plump, 
the  skin  clear ;  and  if  a  few  feathers  be  plucked  from 
the  inside  of  the  leg  and  around  the  vent,  the  flesh  of 
freshly  killed  birds  will  be  fat  and  fresh  colored  ;  if 
it  is  dark,  and  discolored,  the  game  has  been  hung 
a  long  time.  The  wings  of  good  ducks,  geese,  pheas- 
ants, and  woodcock  are  tender  to  the  touch ;  the 
tips  of  the  long  wing  feathers  of  partridges  are  pointed 
in  young  birds,  and  round  in  old  ones.  Quail, 
snipe,  and  small  birds  should  have  full  tender  breasts. 

Young  rabbits  and  hares  have  short  necks,  thick 
knees,  and  forepaws  which  can  be  easily  broken ; 
old  ones  are  very  poor. 

Buffalo  meat  is  somewhat  similar  in  appearance 
to  beef,  save  that  the  flesh  is  darker,  and  the  fat 
redder;  it  is  tender  and  juicy  when  it  has  been  kept 
long  enough,  say  about  two  months  in  winter ;  the 
tongue,  when  cured,  is  excellent. 

Venison  should  be  tender,  and  very  fat,  or  it  will 
be  dry  and  tasteless. 

Bear  meat,  when  fat  and  tender,  is  savory  and 
nourishing. 

Fish. — Sea  fish,  and  those  which  live  in  both 
salt  and  fresh  water,  such  as  salmon,  shad,  and  smelts, 
are  the  finest  flavored;  the  muddy  taste  of  some 
fresh  water  species  can  be  overcome  by  soaking  them 


MARKETING.  I9 


in  cold  water  and  salt  for  two  hours  or  more  before 
cooking;  all  kinds  are  best  just  before  spawning, the 
flesh  becoming  poor  and  watery  after  that  period. 
Fresh  fish  have  firm  flesh,  rigid  fins,  bright,  clear 
eyes,  and  ruddy  gills. 

Oysters,  clams,  scallops,  and  mussels,  should  be 
eaten  very  fresh,  as  they  soon  lose  their  flavor  after 
being  removed  from  the  shell. 

Lobsters  and  crabs  should  be  chosen  by  their 
brightness  of  color,  lively  movement,  and  great 
weight  in  proportion  to  their  size. 

Vegetables. — All  juicy  vegetables  should  be 
very  fresh  and  crisp  ;  and  if  a  little  wilted,  can  be 
restored  by  being  sprinkled  with  water  and  laid  in 
a  cool,  dark  place ;  all  roots  and  tubers  should  be 
pared  and  laid  in  cold  water  an  holir  or  more  before 
using.  Green  vegetables  are  best  just  before  they 
flower ;  and  roots  and  tubers  are  prime  from  their 
ripening  until  spring  germination  begins. 

Fruit. — All  fruit  should  be  purchased  ripe  and 
sound  ;  it  is  poor  economy  to  buy  imperfect  or  de- 
cayed kinds,  as  they  are  neither  satisfactory  nor 
healthy  eating ;  while  the  mature,  full-flavored  sorts 
are  invaluable  as  food. 

Sweet  Herbs. — Sweet  and  savory  herbs  are 
absolutely  indispensable  to  good  cooking;  they  give 
variety  and  savory  flavors  to  any  dish  into  which 
they  enter,  and  are  nearly  all  of  some  decided  sani- 
tary use  ;  the  different  kinds  called  for  in  the  various 
receipts  further  on  in  this  work  can  be  bought  at 
almost  any  grocery  store,  or  in  th^^market ;  but  we 


20  THE    COOKING  MANUAL, 

advise  our  readers  to  obtain  seeds  from  some  good 
florist  and  make  little  kitchen  gardens  of  their  own, 
even  if  the  space  planted  be  only  a  box  of  mould  in 
the  kitchen  window.  Sage,  thyme,  summer  savory, 
sweet  marjoram,  tarragon,  sweet  basil,  rosemary, 
mint,  burnet,  chervil,  dill,  and  parsley,  will  grow 
abundantly  with  very  little  care;  and  when  dried, 
and  added  judiciously  to  food,  greatly  improve  its 
flavor.  Parsley,  tarragon  and  fennel,  should  be  dried 
in  May,  June,  and  July,  just  before  flowering ;  mint 
in  June  and  July;  thyme,  marjoram,  and  savory  in 
July  and  August;  basil  and  sage  in  August  and 
September ;  all  herbs  should  be  gathered  in  the  sun- 
shine, and  dried  by  artificial  heat ;  their  flavor  is  best 
preserved  by  keeping  them  in  air-tight  tin  cans. 

Bay  leaves  can  be  procured  at  any  drug  store,  or 
German  grocery,  at  a  very  moderate  expense ;  they 
have  the  flavor  of  laurel. 

An  excellent  and  convenient  spice-salt  can  be 
made  by  drying,  powdering,  and  mixing  by  repeated 
siftings  the  following  ingredients :  one  quarter  of  an 
ounce  each  of  powdered  thyme,  bay-leaf,  and  pep- 
per ;  one  eighth  of  an  ounce  each  of  rosemary,  mar- 
joram, and  cayenne  pepper,  or  powdered  capsicums; 
one  half  of  an  ounce  each  of  powdered  clove  and 
nutmeg ;  to  every  four  ounces  of  this  powder  add 
one  ounce  of  salt,  and  keep  the  mixture  in  an  air- 
tight vessel.  One  ounce  of  it  added  to  three  pounds 
of  stuffing,  or  forcemeat  of  any  kind,  makes  a  de- 
licious seasoning. 

A  bouquet  of  Sweet  herbs. — The  bouquet, 


MARKETING.  21 


jr  fagot,  of  sweet  herbs,  so  often  called  for  in  foreign 
cooking,  is  made  as  follows :  wash  three  or  four 
sprigs  of  parsley,  lay  in  their  midst  one  sprig  of  thyme, 
and  two  bay  leaves ;  fold  the  parsley  over  the  thyme 
and  bay  leaves,  tie  it  in  a  cork-shaped  roll,  about 
three  inches  long  and  one  inch  thick.  The  bouquet 
is  used  for  seasoning  soups,  sauces,  stews,  and  savory 
dishes  in  general,  and  is  removed  when  the  dish  is 
served. 


CHAPTER   II. 
SOUPS. 

Soup  is  the  most  satisfactory  and  nourishing  of 
all  dishes  when  it  is  properly  made.  Its  value  de- 
pends upon  what  is  put  into  it,  but  even  in  its  most 
economical  form  it  constitutes  a  hearty  meal  when 
eaten  with  bread  and  vegetables.  It  can  be  made 
from  the  merest  scraps  and  trimmings  of  meat ;  from 
the  heads,  tails,  and  feet  of  animals ;  from  the  bones 
and  skin  of  fish  ;  and  from  cereals  and  vegetables 
alone.  Pot  liquor  in  which  meat  has  been  boiled 
should  always  be  saved  and  used  for  soup  the  next 
day,  when  by  the  removal  of  all  fat,  by  careful  skim- 
ming, and  the  addition  of  a  few  vegetables  or  some 
dumplings,  rice,  or  macaroni,  it  will  make  a  palatable 
broth.  Experiments  made  by  French  chemists  prove 
that  the  delicacy  and  richness  of  soup  may  be  in- 
creased by  first  soaking  the  meat  in  tepid  water 
enough  to  cover  it,  and  adding  this  to  the  second 
water  in  which  the  meat  is  put  over  the  fire,  just  as 
it  reaches  the  boiling  point. 

I.  General  Stock. — Part  I. — Where  there  is 
a  family  of  any  size  it  is  well  to  keep  a  clean  pot  or 
sauce-pan  on  the  back  of  the  stove  to  receive  all  the 
clean  scraps  of  meat,  bones,  and  remains  of  poultry 


SOUPS.  23 


and  game,  which  are  found  in  every  kitchen;  but 
vegetables  should  not  be  put  into  it,  as  they  are  apt 
to  sour.  The  proper  proportions  for  soup  are  one 
pound  of  meat  and  bone  to  one  and  a  half  quarts  of 
cold  water ;  the  meat  and  bones  to  be  well  chopped 
and  broken  up,  and  put  over  the  fire  in  cold  water, 
being  brought  slowly  to  a  boil,  and  carefully  skim- 
med as  often  as  any  scum  rises ;  and  being  main- 
tained at  a  steady  boiling  point  from  two  to  six 
hours,  as  time  permits;  one  hour  before  the  stock  isi 
done,  add  to  it  one  carrot  and  one  turnip  pared,  one; 
onion  stuck  with  three  cloves,  and  a  bouquet  of  sweet, 
herbs. 

Part  II. — When  the  soup  is  to  be  boiled  six  hours, 
two  quarts  of  cold  water  must  be  allowed  to  every 
pound  of  meat;  this  will  be  reduced  to  one  quart  in 
boiling.  Two  gills  of  soup  are  usually  allowed  for  each 
person  at  table  when  it  is  served  as  the  first  part  of  the 
dinner,  and  meats  are  to  follow  it.  Care  should  be 
taken  that  the  stock-pot  boils  slowly  and  constantly, 
from  one  side,  as  rapid  and  irregular  boiling  clouds  and 
darkens  the  stock  as  much  as  imperfect  skimming. 
Stock  should  never  be  allowed  to  cool  in  the  stock- 
pot,  but  should  be  strained  into  an  earthen  jar,  and 
left  standing  to  cool  uncovered,  and  all  the  fat  re- 
moved, and  saved  to  clarify  for  drippings ;  the  stock 
is  then  ready  to  heat  and  use  for  soup,  or  gravy. 
When  stock  has  been  darkened  and  clouded  by  care- 
less skimming  and  fast  boiling,  it  can  be  clarified  by 
adding  to  it  one  egg  and  the  shell,  mixed  first  with  a 
gill  of  cold  water,  then  with  a  gill  of  boiling  soup, 


24  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

and  stirring  it  briskly  into  the  soup  until  it  boils ; 
then  remove  it  to  the  back  of  the  fire  where  it  will 
not  boil,  and  let  it  stand  until  the  white  and  shell  of 
the  &%%  have  collected  the  small  particles  clouding  the 
soup;  then  strain  it  once  or  twice,  until  it  looks  clear. 

2.  Flavoring,  thickening,  and  coloring 
soups. — The  flavor  of  soup  stock  may  be  varied  by 
using  in  it  a  little  ham,  anchovy,  sausage,  sugar,  or 
a  calf  s  foot.  Herbs  in  the  sprig,  and  whole  spices 
should  be  used  in  seasoning,  as  they  can  easily  be 
strained  out.  All  delicate  flavors,  and  wine,  should 
be  added  to  soup  just  before  serving  it,  unless  the 
contrary  is  expressly  directed  in  the  receipt,  because 
boiling  would  almost  entirely  evaporate  them  :  one 
gill  of  wine  is  usually  allowed  to  every  three  pints 
of  soup. 

Soups  which  precede  a  full  dinner  should  be  less 
rich  than  those  which  form  the  bulk  of  the  meal. 
Corn  starch,  arrow  root,  and  potato  flour  are  better 
than  wheat  flour  for  thickening  soup.  The  meal  of 
peas  and  beans  can  be  held  in  suspension  by  mixing 
together  dry  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  flour,  and 
stirring  it  into  the  soup  ;  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  peas, 
beans,  or  lentils,  is  sufficient  to  make  a  quart  of 
thick  soup.  Two  ounces  of  macaroni,  vermicelli, 
pearl  barley,  sago,  tapioca,  rice,  or  oatmeal,  are 
usually  allowed  for  each  quart  of  stock. 

If  you  wish  to  darken  soup  use  a  teaspoonful  of 
caramel ;  but  avoid  burnt  flour,  carrot,  and  onion,  as 
all  these  give  a  bad  flavor.  Caramel  can  be  made 
from  the  following  receipt ;  melt  half  a  pound  of 


SOUPS.  25 


loaf  sugar  in  a  thick  copper  vessel,  Stirring  it  fre- 
quently with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  boiling  it  slowly 
until  it  assumes  a  rich  brown  color,  but  do  not  let  it 
burn ;  when  brown  enough  add  one  quart  of  cold 
water,  stir  well,  and  boil  gently  at  the  side  of  the 
fire  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  cool,  strain,  and  bottle 
tight.  In  using  the  caramel  add  it  just  as  you  are 
about  to  serve  the  soup,  or  sauce  colored  with  it. 

3.  Clear  Soup,  or  Consomme.  {Two 
quarts  for  eight  persons.) — This  is  made  by  strain- 
ing two  quarts  of  stock,  which  has  been  cooled  and 
freed  from  fat,  through  a  piece  of  flannel  or  a  napkin 
until  it  is  bright  and  clear ;  if  this  does  not  entirely 
clear  it,  use  an  egg,  as  directed  for  clarifying  soup ; 
then  season  it  to  taste  with  salt,  using  at  first  a  tea- 
spoonful,  and  a  very  little  fine  white  pepper,  say  a 
quarter  of  a  saltspoonful ;  and  color  it  to  a  bright 
straw  color  with  caramel,  of  which  a  scant  teaspoon- 
ful  will  be  about  the  proper  quantity.  Consomme  is 
sent  to  the  table  clear,  but  sometimes  a  deep  dish 
containing  poached  eggs,  one  for  each  person,  with 
enough  consojufne  to  cover  them,  accompanies  it. 

4.  Poached  Eggs  for  Ccnsomm^.— Break 
the  eggs,  which  should  be  very  fresh,  into  a  deep 
sauce-pan  half  full  of  boiling  water,  seasoned  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  gill  of  vinegar ;  cover 
the  sauce-pan,  and  set  it  on  the  back  part  of  the  fire 
until  the  whites  of  the  eggs  are  firm  ;  then  lift  them 
separately  on  a  skimmer,  carefully  trim  off  the  rough 
edges,  making  each  egg  a  regular  oval  shape,  and 
slip  them  off  the  skimmer  into  a  bowl  of  hot,  but  not 

2 


26  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

boiling  water,  where  they  must  stand  for  ten  minutes 
before  serving. 

5.  Vermicelli  and  Macaroni  Soup.— These 
soups  are  both  made  as  for  consomim  ;  and  to  every 
quart  of  stock  is  added  two  ounces  of  one  of  these 
pastes  blanched  as  follows.  Put  the  paste  into  plenty 
of  boiling  water,  with  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  to 
each  quart  of  water,  and  boil  until  tender  enough  to 
pierce  with  the  finger  nail ;  then  drain  it,  and  put  it 
in  cold  water  until  required  for  use,  when  it  should 
be  placed  in  the  two  quarts  of  hot  soup  long  enough 
to  heat  thoroughly  before  serving. 

6.  Rice  and  Tomato  Soup. — Strain,  and  pass 
through  a  sieve  with  a  wooden  spoon,  one  pint  of 
tomatoes,  either  fresh  or  canned,  stir  them  into  two 
quarts  of  good,  clear  stock,  free  from  fat ;  season  it 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  quarter  of  a  saltspoon- 
ful  of  pepper ;  taste,  and  if  the  seasoning  seems  defi- 
cient add  a  little  more,  but  do  not  put  in  too  much 
for  general  liking,  for  more  can  easily  be  added, 
but  none  can  be  taken  out.  Add  four  ounces  of 
rice,  well  washed  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  and  boil 
the  soup  slowly  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour  before 
serving. 

7.  Scotch  Broth  without  Meat. — Steep 
four  ounces  of  pearl  barley  over  night  in  cold  water, 
and  wash  it  well  in  fresh  water ;  cut  in  dice  half  an 
inch  square,  six  ounces  of  yellow  turnip,  six  ounces 
of  carrot,  four  ounces  of  onion,  two  ounces  of  celery, 
(or  use  in  its  place  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  celery 
seed ;)  put  all  these  into  two  and  a  half  quarts  of 


SOUPS.  27 


boiling  water,  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  as  much 
cayenne  as  you  can  take  up  on  the  point  of  a  very 
small  pen-knife  blade;  boil  slowly  for  two  hours; 
then  stir  in  quarter  of  a  pound  of  oatmeal,  mixed  to 
a  smooth  batter  with  cold  water,  see  if  seasoning  be 
correct,  add  two  or  three  grates  of  nutmeg,  and  boil 
half  an  hour.  Meantime,  cut  two  slices  of  bread  in 
half  inch  dice,  fry  light  brown  in  hot  fat,  and  lay  the 
bits  in  the  soup  tureen  ;  when  the  soup  is  ready 
pour  it  over  them,  and  serve.  This  soup  is  very  rich 
and  nutritious,  and  should  be  served  with  light 
dinners. 

8.  Scotch  Broth  with  Meat.— Put  four 
ounces  of  barley  to  soak  in  warm  water.  From  two 
pounds  of  the  shoulder  of  mutton,  cut  the  lean  meat 
in  dice  half  an  inch  square ;  cut  up  the  rest  in  small 
pieces  and  make  a  stock  as  directed  in  receipt  No.  i., 
Fart  /.,  using  two  and  a  half  quarts  of  water,  and 
boiling  and  skimming  for  two  hours ;  at  the  end  of 
an  hour  and  a  half  put  the  dice  of  meat  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  fry  them  brown ; 
stir  in  one  ounce  of  flour;  cut  in  dice  six  ounces 
each  of  yellow  turnip  and  carrot,  chop  four  ounces 
of  onion,  and  put  these  with  the  meat ;  add  the  bar- 
ley, and  the  stock  strained,  season  with  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper, 
and  simmer  one  hour.  Then  serve  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley  sprinkled  in  the  soup. 

9.  Spinach  Soup. — Blanch  two  quarts  of 
spinach,  by  putting  it  into  a  large  pot  full  of  boiling 


28  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

water,  with  two  tablespoonsful  of  salt,  cover  until  it 
boils  up  once  ;  then  remove  the  cover,  and  with  a 
wooden  spoon  press  the  spinach  under  water  as  fast 
as  it  rises  to  the  surface  ;  boil  it  steadily  until  it  is  ten- 
der enough  to  pierce  easily  with  the  finger  nail ;  then 
drain  it ;  run  plenty  of  cold  water  from  the  faucet 
over  it,  while  it  is  still  in  the  colander ;  drain  it 
again,  chop  it  fine,  and  pass  it  through  a  kitchen 
sieve  with  the  aid  of  a  wooden  spoon ;  boil  two 
quarts  of  milk,  add  the  spinach  to  it,  thicken  it  by 
stirring  in  one  tablespoonful  of  corn  starch  dissolved 
in  cold  milk  ;  season  it  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  the 
same  of  nutmeg ;  and  serve  it  as  soon  as  it  boils  up. 
lo.  Sorrel  Soup. — Put  one  pint  of  sorrel  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  dessert  spoonful  of  salt,  and  one  gill 
of  cold  water ;  cover  it,  and  cook  until  it  is  tender 
enough  to  pierce  with  the  finger  nail,  then  drain, 
wash  it  well  with  cold  water,  chop  it  and  pass  it 
through  the  kitchen  sieve  with  a  wooden  spoon; 
meantime  brown  half  an  ounce  of  chopped  onion  in 
a  sauce-pan  with  one  ounce  of  butter  ;  add  one  ounce 
of  flour,  and  stir  till  brown ;  then  add  two  quarts  of 
hot  water,  or  hot  water  and  stock,  and  the  sorrel,  and 
season  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  quarter  of  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  and  the  same  of  nutmeg;  mix 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cold 
water,  add  to  them  half  a  pint  of  boiling  soup,  and 
gradually  stir  the  mixture  into  the  soup,  boiling  it 
a  minute  after  it  is  thoroughly  blended  ;  meantime 
cut  two  slices  of  bread  into  half  inch  dice,  fry  them 


SOUPS.  29 


brown  in  smoking  hot  fat,  drain  them  free  from  grease 
on  a  napkin,  put  them  into  a  soup  tureen,  pour  the 
soup  on  them,  and  serve  at  once. 

1 1 .  Pea  Soup. — Use  half  a  pint  of  dried  peas  for 
thick  soup,  or  one  pint  for  3,  puree,  to  two  quarts  of 
stock  or  cold  water.  Bring  slowly  to  a  boil ;  add  a 
bone  or  bit  of  ham,  one  turnip  and  one  carrot  peeled, 
one  onion  stuck  with  three  cloves,  and  simmer  three 
hours  stirring  occasionally  to  prevent  burning;  then 
pass  the  soup  through  a  sieve  with  the  aid  of  a  potato 
masher;  and  if  it  shows  any  sign  of  settling  stir  into 
it  one  tablespoonful  each  of  butter  and  flour  mixed 
together  dry;  this  will  hold  the  meal  in  solution; 
meantime  fry  some  dice  of  stale  bread,  about  two 
slices,  cut  half  an  inch  square,  in  hot  fat,  drain  them 
on  a  napkin,  and  put  them  in  the  bottom  of  the  soup 
tureen  in  which  the  pea  soup  is  served. 

12.  Lentil  Soup. — The  seed  of  the  lentil  tare 
commonly  cultivated  in  France  and  Germany  as  an 
article  of  food,  ranks  nearly  as  high  as  meat,  as  a 
valuable  food,  being  capable  of  sustaining  life  and 
vigor  for  a  long  time;  this  vegetable  is  gradually 
becoming  known  in  this  country,  from  the  use  of  it 
by  our  French  and  German  citizens  ;  and  from  its 
nutritive  value  it  deserves  to  rank  as  high  as  our 
favorite  New  England  beans.  For  two  quarts  of 
lentil  soup  half  a  pint  of  yellow  lentils  should  be  well 
washed,  and  put  to  boil  in  three  pints  of  cold  water, 
with  a  small  carrot,  an  onion,  two  sprigs  of  parsley, 
and  two  bay  leaves,  and  boiled  gently  until  the  lentils 
are  soft  enough  to  break  easily  between  the  fingers ; 


30  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

every  half  hour  one  gill  of  cold  water  should  be 
added,  and  the  lentils  again  raised  to  the  boiling 
point,  until  they  are  done ;  they  should  then  be 
drained  in  a  colander,  and  passed  through  a  sieve 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  using  enough  of  the  liquor  to 
make  them  pass  easy,  and  mixed  with  the  rest  of  the 
soup ;  it  is  then  ready  to  simmer  for  half  an  hour, 
and  serve  hot,  with  dice  of  fried  bread  half  an  inch 
square,  like  those  used  for  pea  soup.  These  dice  of 
fried  bread  are  called  Conde  crusts. 


CHABTER  III. 
FISH. 

When  fish  is  rather  deficient  in  flavor,  a  little 
vinegar  rubbed  over  the  skin ;  and  a  few  sweet  herbs 
boiled  with  it  will  greatly  improve  it.  For  boiling, 
large  fish  should  be  placed  on  the  fire  in  cold  water, 
and  small  ones  in  hot  water ;  both  are  done  when  the 
fins  pull  out  easily.  Fish  soup  is  the  most  economi- 
cal of  all  fish  dishes;  baked  fish  the  second  best; 
brpiled  fish  retains  nearly  all  its  nourishment ;  and 
boiled  fish  is  the  poorest  of  all.  The  following 
technical  terms  are  used  to  denote  different  methods 
of  cooking  fish :  to  dress  fish  a  la  Hollatidaise  is  to 
boil  it  in  sea  water ;  a  Veau  de  sel^  in  salt  and  water ; 
au  court  bouillon^  with  cold  water,  white  wine  or  vin- 
egar, sweet  herbs,  soup  vegetables,  lemon,  and  whole 
spices ;  a  la  bonne  eau,  with  sweet  herbs  and  cold 
water ;  aji  bleUy  in  equal  quantities  of  red  wine  and 
cold  water,  highly  flavored  with  spices  and  aromatic 
herbs. 

13.  Boiled  Cod  with  Oyster  Sauce. — Lay 
two  pounds  of  cod  in  enough  cold  water  to  cover  it, 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  for  an  hour  or  more  be- 
fore cooking  ;  then  put  it  to  boil  in  three  quarts  of 
cold  water,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt ;  as  soon 


32  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

as  the  fish  is  done,  set  the  kettle  containing  it  off  the 
fire,  and  let  the  fish  stand  in  it  until  you  are  ready 
to  use  it ;  meantime  put  a  pint  of  oysters  on  the  fire 
to  boil  in  their  own  liquor;  as  soon  as  they  boil  drain 
them,  and  put  the  liquor  again  on  the  fire  to  boil ; 
mix  together  in  a  sauce-pan  over  the  fire  one  ounce 
of  butter  and  one  ounce  of  flour,  as  soon  as  it  bub- 
bles, gradually  .pour  in  the  boiling  oyster  liquor,  and 
stir  with  an  egg  whip  until  the  sauce  is  quite  smooth ; 
season  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  an  eighth  of  a 
saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  the  same  of  nutmeg;  and 
add  the  oysters.  Take  up  the  fish,  serve  it  on  a 
napkin,  and  send  it  to  the  table  with  a  bowl  con- 
taining the  oyster  sauce. 

14.  Baked  Blackfish.— Have  a  fish  weighing 
from  two  to  two  and  a  half  pounds  cleaned  by  tjie 
fishmonger ;  rub  it  well  with  a  handful  of  salt,  to  re- 
move the  slime  peculiar  to  this  fish,  wash  it  well,  and 
wipe  it  with  a  clean,  dry  cloth  ;  stuff  it  with  the  fol- ' 
lowing  forcemeat.  Put  four  ounces  of  stale  bread  to 
soak  in  sufficient  luke-warm  water  to  cover  it ;  mean- 
time fry  one  ounce  of  chopped  onion  in  one  ounce  of 
butter  until  it  is  light  brown  ;  then  wring  the  bread 
dry  in  a  clean  towel,  put  it  into  the  onion  with  two 
tablespoonsful  of  chopped  parsley,  one  ounce  of  salt 
pork  chopped  fine,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  ca- 
pers or  pickles,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  quarter  of  a 
saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  one  gill  of  broth 
or  hot  water;  stir  until  it  is  scalding  hot,  when  it 
will  cleave  from  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  sauce- 
pan ;  then  stuff  the  fish  with  it,  and  lay  it  in  a  drip- 


FISH,  33 

ping  pan  on  one  ounce  of  carrot  and  one  ounce  of 
onion  sliced,  one  bay  leaf  and  two  sprigs  of  parsley  ; 
cover  the  fish  with  slices  of  salt  pork,  season  it  with 
a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  fourth  that  quantity 
of  pepper,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  half- 
an  hour,  basting  it  occasionally  with  a  little  butter, 
or  stock.  When  it  is  done,  put  it  on  a  dish  to  keep 
hot  while  you  prepare  a  sauce  by  straining  the  drip- 
pings in  the  pan,  and  adding  to  them  one  table- 
spoonful  each  of  walnut  catsup,  Worcestershire  sauce, 
chopped  capers,  and  chopped  parsley.  Pour  a  little 
of  this  sauce  in  the  bottom  of  the  dish  under  the 
fish,  and  serve  the  rest  with  it  in  a  bowl. 

15.  Broiled  Shad  with  Maitre  d'hotel 
butter. — Choose  a  medium  sized  shad,  weighing 
about  three  pounds,  have  it  cleaned  and  split  down 
the  back ;  turn  it  occasionally  for  an  hour  or  more, 
in  a  marinade  made  of  one  tablespoonful  of  salad 
oil,  or  melted  butter,  one  of  vinegar,  a  saltspoonful 
of  salt,  and  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper ;  lay 
it  on  a  gridiron,  rubbed  with  a  little  butter  to  prevent 
sticking,  broil  it  slowly,  doing  the  inside  first,  and, 
after  laying  it  on  a  hot  dish,  spread  over  it  some 
maitre  d'hotel  butter. 

16.  Maitre  d'hotel  Butter. — Mix  together 
cold,  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  quarter  of 
a  saltspoonful  of  pepper;  and  spread  it  over  the 
broiled  shad.  This  butter  is  excellent  for  any  kind 
of  broiled  fish,  or  for  steaks. 

17.  Fried  Smelts,  French  Style. — Carefully 


34  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

wipe  two  pounds  of  cleaned  smelts  with  a  dry  cloth ; 
dip  them  in  milk,  then  roll  them  in  finely  powdered 
cracker  crumbs,  next  in  an  egg  beaten  with  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pep- 
per, and  then  again  in  cracker  crumbs ;  fry  them  in 
enough  smoking  hot  fat  to  cover  them,  until  they  are 
golden  brown ;  take  them  from  the  fat  with  a  skim- 
mer, lay  them  on  a  napkin,  or  a  piece  of  paper  to 
absorb  all  fat ;  and  serve  them  laid  in  rows  with  a 
few  quarters  of  lemon  on  the  side  of  the  dish. 

1 8.  Fillet  of  Sole  au  gratin. — Choose  two 
flounders  weighing  about  three  pounds.  Lay  them 
on  the  table  with  the  dark  side  uppermost ;  with  a 
sharp,  thin-bladed  knife  cut  down  to  the  back  bone, 
following  the  dark  line  in  the  middle  of  the  fish; 
then  turn  the  edge  of  the  knife  outward,  and  cut  to- 
wards the  fins,  keeping  the  blade  flat  against  the 
bone,  and  removing  one  quarter  of  the  flesh  of  the 
fish  in  a  single  piece ;  proceed  in  the  same  way  until 
you  have  eight  fillets ;  carefully  cut  the  skin  from 
them ;  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  lay  them 
on  a  buttered  dish  suitable  to  send  to  table,  sprinkle 
them  thickly  with  sifted  cracker  crumbs,  and  a  little 
grated  Parmesan,  or  any  rich,  dry  cheese ;  put  a  few 
bits  of  butter  over  them,  using  not  more  than  an 
ounce  in  all,  and  brown  them  in  a  quick  oven.  Serve 
them  as  soon  as  they  are  nicely  browned.  This  is  a 
very  savory  and  delicate  dish,  requiring  some  prac- 
tice to  do  nicely,  but  comparatively  inexpensive,  and 
well  worth  all  trouble  taken  in  making  it. 

19.  St.  James  Fish  Chowder. — Put  half  a 


FISH.  35 

pound  of  sliced  salt  pork  in  the  bottom  of  a  deep 
sauce-pan  and  fry  it  brown ;  take  it  out,  and  put  in 
layers  of  potatoes,  onions  and  fish  sliced,  seasoning 
each  layer  plentifully  with  salt  and  pepper;  using 
about  three  pounds  of  fish,  and  a  quart  each  of  pota- 
toes and  onions ;  cover  with  cold  water,  bring  grad- 
ually to  a  boil,  and  cook  slowly  for  thirty  minutes ; 
then  add  two  pounds  of  sea-biscuits  soaked  for 
five  minutes  in  warm  water,  and  boil  five  minutes 
longer  and  serve.  This  receipt  calls  for  the  ad- 
dition of  half  a  pint  of  port  wine,  and  a  bottle  of 
champagne  to  be  added  to  the  chowder  just  before 
serving;  but  it  is  quite  good  enough  without,  and  far 
less  expensive. 

20.  Club  House  Fish  Cakes. — Wash  and  boil 
one  quart  of  potatoes,  putting  them  on  the  fire  in 
cold  water  enough  to  cover  them,  and  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  salt.  Put  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  salt  cod- 
fish on  the  fire  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  and  bring  it 
slowly  to  a  boil ;  as  soon  as  it  boils  throw  off  that 
water,  and  put  it  again  on  the  fire  in  fresh  cold 
water ;  if  the  fish  is  very  salt  change  the  water  a  third 
time.  Free  the  fish  from  skin  and  bone;  peel  the 
potatoes,  mash  them  through  a  colander  with  a  potato 
masher,  season  them  with  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful 
of  pepper  and  an  ounce  of  butter ;  add  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  and  the  fish ;  mix  well,  and  make  into  cakes, 
using  a  little  flour  to  prevent  stickir^  to  the  hands. 
Fry  them  golden  brown  in  enough  smoking  hot  fat 
to  nearly  cover  them;  observe  that  in  frying  any 
article  of  food  it  will  not  soak  fat  if  the  latter  be  hot 


Z^  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

enough  to  carbonize  the  outside  at  once,  and  smok- 
ing hot  fat  will  do  that. 

21.  Sardine  Sandwiches.  —  Butter  sixteen 
thin  slices  of  bread  on  both  sides,  put  between  each 
two  a  very  thin  layer  of  sardines,  sprinkled  with  a 
little  lemon  juice,  and  brown  them  in  a  quick  oven. 

2  2.  Warmed  up  boiled  fish,  -with  Dutch 
Sauce. — Put  the  cold  fish  on  the  fire  in  plenty  of 
cold  water  and  salt,  and  let  it  come  slowly  to  a  boil ; 
meantime  make  a  sauce  for  it  as  follows. 

23.  Dutch  Sauce. — Put  one  ounce  of  butter, 
and  one  ounce  of  flour  in  a  sauce-pan  over  the  fire, 
and  stir  constantly  until  it  bubbles ;  then  add  grad- 
ually one  gill  of  boiling  water,  remove  the  sauce  from 
the  fire,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  one  at  a  time, 
add  one  saltspoonful  of  dry  mustard ;  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar  and  three  of  oil,  gradually,  drop 
by  drop,  stirring  constantly  till  smooth.  When  the 
fish  is  warmed  take  it  up  carefully  without  breaking 
and  serve  with  the  Dutch  sauce  in  a  boat. 


CHAPTER   IV. 

RELISHES. 

The  dishes  known  as  relishes  are  usually  eaten 
at  dinner  just  after  the  soup  or  fish ;  they  are  in  re- 
ality the  restorers  of  appetite ;  they  are  usually  cold, 
and  are  sent  to  the  table  on  small  oval  dishes,  or 
ornamental  boats. 

24.  Anchovies.  (One  for  each  persojt.) — The 
best  anchovies  are  small  and  plump,  with  white 
scales,  and  dark  red  pickle;  they  are  prepared  for 
the  table  by  soaking  two  hours  in  cold  water,  taking 
out  the  backbone,  removing  the  scales  and  some  of 
the  small  bones,  and  serving  them  with  oil  or  vine- 
gar in  a  suitable  dish,  or  pickle  shell. 

25.  Sardines.  {One  for  each  person.) — Sardines 
are  served  by  wiping  them,  and  serving  them  on  a 
Small  dish  with  quarters  of  lemons  beside  them. 

26.  Pickled  Herrings.  {One  for  each  person.) 
— These  are  served  in  a  boat  with  a  few  capers,  and 
a  little  chopped  parsley  sprinkled  over  them. 

27.  Scalloped  Oysters.  {One  shell  for  each 
person.) — Blanch  one  quart  of  oysters  by  bring- 
ing just  to  a  boil  in  their  own  liquor,  then  strain 
them,  saving  the  liquor,  and  keeping  it  hot; 
wash   them   in  cold   water   and    drain   them;    mix 


38  THE  cooki::g  manual. 

one  ounce  of  butter  and  one  ounce  of  flour  to- 
gether in  a  sauce-pan  over  the  fire ;  as  soon  as 
it  is  smooth  gradually  stir  in  one  pint  of  the  oyster 
liquor,  which  must  be  boiling;  season  the  sauce  with 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  quarter  of  a  saltspoon- 
ful  each  of  white  pepper  and  nutmeg ;  put  the  oysters 
into  it  to  heat,  while  you  thoroughly  wash  eight  or 
ten  deep  oystershells  with  a  brush  ;  fill  them  with  the 
oysters,  dust  them  thickly  with  bread  crumbs ;  put 
a  small  bit  of  butter  on  each  one,  and  brown  them 
in  a  quick  oven ;  they  should  be  sent  to  the  table 
laid  on  a  napkin  neatly  folded  on  a  platter. 

28.  Welsh  Rare-bit. — Grate  one  pound  of 
rich  cheese,  mix  it  over  the  fire  with  one  gill  of  ale, 
working  it  smooth  with  a  spoon ;  season  it  with  a 
saltspoonful  of  dry  mustard;  meantime  make  two 
large  slices  of  toast,  lay  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  as 
soon  as  the  cheese  is  thoroughly  melted,  pour  it  over 
the  toast  and  send  it  to  the  table  at  once. 

29.  Golden  Buck. — Prepare  the  cheese  and 
toast  as  in  receipt  No.  28 ;  cut  the  toast  in  eight 
pieces  ;  while  the  cheese  is  melting  poach  eight  eggs, 
by  dropping  them  gently  into  plenty  of  boiling  water 
containing  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  gill  of 
vinegar ;  as  soon  as  the  whites  are  firm,  take  them 
carefully  out  on  a  skimmer,  trim  off  the  edges,  and 
slip  them  again  into  warm  water,  while  you  divide 
the  cheese  on  the  pieces  of  toast;  then  lay  an  egg  on 
each  piece,  and  serve  at  once.  The  success  of 
the  dish  depends  upon  having  the  eggs,  cheese,  and 
toast   ready   at    the    same   moment,   putting    thera 


RELISHES.  39 


together    very   quickly,    and    serving    them    before 
they  cool. 

30.  Mock  Crab. — Break  up  half  a  pound  of 
soft,  rich  cheese  with  a  fork,  mix  with  it  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  dry  mustard,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  dessertspoonful  of  vinegar; 
serve  it  cold,  with  a  plate  of  thin  bread  and  butter, 
or  crisp  crackers. 

31.  English  bread  and  butter. — Cut  an 
even  slice  oif  a  large  loaf  of  fresh  homemade  bread ; 
butter  the  cut  end  of  the  loaf  thinly,  then  hold  it 
against  the  side  with  the  left  hand  and  arm,  and  with 
a  sharp,  thin  knife,  cut  an  even  slice  not  more  than 
an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick ;  a  little  practice,  and  a 
steady  grasp  of  bread  and  knife,  will  enable  any  one 
to  produce  regular  whole  slices  ;  fold  each  one  double, 
with  the  butter  inside ;  and  cut  as  many  as  you  re- 
quire ;  serve  them  on  a  clean  napkin,  and  send  them 
to  the  table  with  any  other  of  the  above  relishes. 

32.  Cheese  Straws, — Sift  six  ounces  of  flour 
on  the  pastry  board,  make  a  hole  or  well  in  the  cen- 
tre ;  into  this  well  put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream, 
three  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan,  or  any  rich  dry 
cheese,  four  ounces  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  the 
same  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  together  with  as  much 
cayenne  as  you  can  take  up  on  the  point  of  a  very 
small  penknife  blade  ;  mix  all  these  ingredients  with 
the  tips  of  the  fingers,  to  a  firm  paste,  knead  it  well, 
roll  it  out  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  ;  and  with  a  sharp 
knife,  or  pastry  j agger,  cut  it  in  straws  about  eight 


40  THE    COOKING  MANUAL. 

inches  long,  and  quarter  of  an  inch  wide  ;  lay  the 
strips  carefully  on  a  buttered  tin,  and  bake  them  light 
straw  color  in  a  moderate  oven..  These  cheese  straws 
make  a  delicious  accompaniment  to  salad. 

T,2i-  Epicurean  Butter. — Bone  and  skin  four 
anchovies  or  sardines,  and  chop  them  fine ;  chop  a 
tablespoonful  of  chives,  and  the  same  quantity  of 
tarragon  leaves,  four  small  green  pickles,  the  yolk? 
of  two  hard  boiled  eggs  ;  mix  with  these  ingredients, 
a  level  teaspoonful  of  French  mustard,  a  saltspoonful 
of  salt,  and  two  ounces  of  sweet  butter ;  pass  them 
all  through  a  fine  sieve  with  the  aid  of  a  wooden 
spoon ;  put  it  on  the  ice  to  cool,  and  then  mould  it 
in  balls  the  size  of  a  walnut,  by  rolling  small  lumps 
between  two  little  wooden  paddles;  serve  it  with 
crackers  and  cheese. 

These  receipts  are  given  because  many  persons  call 
for  them  ;  the  author  begs  leave  to  accompany  them 
with  the  assurance  that  a  prolonged  diet  of  any  of  them 
will  produce  a  well  grounded  dyspepsia  in  a  very  mod- 
erate length  of  time. 


CHAPTER   V. 
SIDE   DISHES,   OR  ENTREES. 

The  multitude  of  dishes  known  as  entrees^  repre- 
sent to  a  great  extent  the  economical  use  of  food  for 
which  the  French  are  so  celebrated  ;  they  are  based 
upon  the  principles  of  suitable  combination.  Usage 
has  classed  certain  sorts  of  food  together  as  fit  ad- 
juncts; for  instance,  bo7t  vivants  instruct  us  that 
white  sauces  and  light  wines  are  the  best  accompani- 
ments for  fish,  poultry,  and  the  white  meats  ;  and 
that  brown  sauces,  and  rich,  heavy  wines,  naturally 
follow  with  the  dark  meats  and  game.  These  gen- 
eral principles  readily  apply  to  the  preparation  of 
the  numberless  made  dishes  which  are  the  glory  of 
European  cookery,  and  which  transform  the  remains 
of  an  ordinary  meat  breakfast  into  a  delicious 
luncheon,  or  an  inviting  side-dish  for  dinner.  The 
fact  that  the  secret  of  all  good  cookery  is  economy, 
must  be  our  apology  for  treating  this  division  of  our 
subject  at  some  length;  and  we  beg  our  readers  to 
test  our  receipts  before  accusing  us  of  attempting  to 
introduce  obnoxious  and  difficult  culinary  methods 
into  American  kitchens. 

34.  How  Meat  should  be  Broiled. — In 
broiling  all    meats,  you   must    remember    that    the 


42  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

surface  should  not  be  cut  or  broken  any  more 
than  is  absolutely  necessary ;  that  the  meat  should 
be  exposed  to  a  clear,  quick  fire,  close  enough  to 
sear  the  surface  without  burning,  in  order  to  con- 
fine all  its  juices ;  if  it  is  approached  slowly  to  a 
poor  fire,  or  seasoned  before  it  is  cooked,  it  will  be 
comparatively  dry  and  tasteless,  as  both  of  these  pro- 
cesses are  useful  only  to  extract  and  waste  those 
precious  juices  which  contain  nearly  all  the  nourish- 
ing properties  of  the  meat. 

35.  Parisian  PotSitoes. — Pare  and  cut  one 
quart  of  raw  potatoes  in  balls  the  size  of  a  walnut, 
reserving  the  trimmings  to  use  for  mashed  potatoes ; 
put  the  balls  over  the  fire  in  plenty  of  cold  water  and 
salt,  and  boil  them  until  just  tender  enough  to  pierce 
easily  with  a  fork ;  which  will  be  in  about  fifteen 
minutes ;  drain  them,  lay  them  on  a  towel  a  moment 
to  dry  them,  and  then  brown  them  in  enough  smok- 
ing hot  lard  to  immerse  them  entirely ;  when  they 
are  brown  take  them  up  in  a  colander,  and  sprinkle 
them  with  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  parsley. 

36.  To  broil  a  Beefsteak. — Rub  the  bars  of 
the  gridiron  smooth,  and  then  grease  them  slightly ; 
lay  on  a  sirloin  steak  weighing  about  three  pounds ; 
put  the  gridiron  over  a  hot  fire ;  if  the  fire  is  not  clear 
throw  a  handful  of  salt  into  it  to  clear  it ;  broil  the 
steak,  turning  it  frequently  so  that  it  cannot  burn, 
until  it  is  done  to  the  required  degree  ;  do  not  cut 
into  it  to  ascertain  this,  but  test  it  by  pressing  the 
tips  of  the  fingers  upon  it ;  if  it  spring  up  again  af- 


SIDE  DISHES,  OR  ENTREES.  43 

ter  the  pressure  is  removed  it  is  done  rare  ;  if  it  re- 
mains heavy  and  solid  it  is  well  done  ;  while  it  is 
broiling  prepare  a  maitre  d' hotel  butter  according  to 
receipt  No.  i6;  spread  it  over  the  steak  after  you 
have  laid  it  on  a  hot  dish,  and  arrange  the  Parisian 
potatoes  at  the  sides  of  the  dish ;  send  it  to  the  table 
at  once.  After  the  proper  cooking  of  a  steak  comes 
the  immediate  eating  thereof,  if  it  is  to  be  found 
perfect. 

37.  Plain  Hump  Steak. — Broil  three  pounds 
of  tender  rump  steak  according  to  directions  in  re- 
ceipt No.  36,  put  it  on  a  hot  dish,  season  it  with  a 
level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  quarter  of  a  saltspoon- 
ful  of  pepper,  spread  over  it  one  ounce  of  butter, 
and  lay  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  horseradish  on 
the  side  of  the  platter,  and  serve  it  hot,  without 
delay. 

2,^.  Portuguese  Beef.— Cut  in  thin  shavings 
two  pounds  of  cold  beef,  and  put  it  into  a  sauce-pan 
with  half  a  pint  of  any  i)rown  gravy,  and  heat  it 
gradually ;  in  another  pan  put  one  small  onion  chop- 
ped fine,  the  rind  of  one  orange  chopped,  the  juice, 
quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  as  much 
cayenne  as  can  be  taken  up  on  the  point  of  a  very 
small  penknife  blade,  and  one  gill  of  port  wine ;  boil 
these  ingredients  rapidly  until  the  liquid  is  reduced 
one  half,  and  then  mix  them  with  the  beef;  fry  in 
hot  fat  some  slices  of  bread,  cut  in  the  shape  of 
hearts,  about  two  inches  long  and  one  inch  wide,] 
pile  the  beef  in  a  mound  on  a  hot  dish,  lay  the  crou-^ 
tons  of  fried  bread  around  it,  and  serve  it  hot. 


44  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

39.  Bubble  and  Squeak. — Cut  about  two 
pounds  of  cold  meat  in  neat  slices,  put  them  into  a 
pan  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  brown  them ;  at 
the  same  time  chop  one  head  of  tender  cabbage, 
without  the  stalks,  put  it  into  a  sauce-pan  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  quarter 
of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  stir  it  occasionally 
over  the  fire  until  it  is  quite  tender;  when  both  are 
done,  lay  the  slices  of  beef  in  the  centre  of  a  hot 
dish,  and  arrange  the  cabbage  around  it ;  serve  it 
hot. 

40.  Stewed  Kidneys. — Cut  one  large  beef 
kidney  in  thin  slices  about  an  inch  long;  fry  two 
ounces  of  onion  in  one  ounce  of  butter,  until  pale 
yellow ;  add  the  kidney,  fry  or  rather  sauter  it,  for 
about  five  minutes,  shaking  the  pan  frequently  to 
prevent  burning ;  then  stir  in  one  ounce  and  a  half 
of  flour,  season  with  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  the  same  of  pow- 
dered sweet  herbs  made  as  directed  on  page  20,  and 
one  gill  of  boiling  water;  cook  ten  minutes  longer; 
meantime  make  eight  heart-shaped  croutons  of  bread, 
as  directed  in  receipt  No.  38  ;  add  one  gill  of  Ma- 
deira wine  to  the  kidneys,  pour  them  on  a  hot  dish, 
sprinkle  them  with  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  pars- 
ley, arrange  the  croutons  around  the  border  of  the 
dish,  and  serve  hot  at  once.  The  success  of  this 
dish  depends  on  serving  it  while  the  kidneys  are 
tender ;  too  much  cooking  hardens  them  ;  and  they 
must  not  be  allowed  to  stand  after  they  are  done,  or 
they  deteriorate. 


SIDE  DISHES,    OR  ENTREES.  45 

41.  Haricot  or  Stew  of  Mutton. — Trim  a 
neck  of  mutton,  weighing  about  two  pounds,  of  all 
superfluous  fat,  cut  it  into  cutlets,  put  them  in  a  deep 
sauce-pan  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  fry  them 
brown ;  pour  off  all  fat,  add  two  ounces  of  flour,  stir 
till  brown,  moisten  with  one  quart  and  a  half  of 
stock,  or  water,  and  stir  occasionally  until  the 
haricot  boils ;  meantime  cut  one  quart  of  carrots 
and  turnips,  half  and  half,  in  small  balls,  and  add 
them,  with  one  dozen  button  onions,  a  bouquet  of 
sweet  herbs,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt ;  simmer  for  one  hour ;  take  up 
the  cutlets  with  a  fork,  skim  out  the  vegetables,  and  / 
remove  the  bouquet ;  lay  the  cutlets  in  a  wreath  on  a 
hot  dish,  place  the  vegetables  in  the  centre,  and  strain 
the  gravy  over  all.  Green  peas,  new  turnips,  or  new 
potatoes,  may  replace  the  first  named  vegetables. 
The  dish  should  always  be  sent  to  the  table  hot.  i 

42.  Epigramme  of  Lamb,  with  Piquant e  j 
Sauce. — Boil  a  breast  of  young  mutton,  weighing 
from  two  to  three  pounds  until  tender,  either  in  the 
stock-pot,  or  in  hot  water  seasoned  with  salt,  two 
cloves  stuck  in  a  small  onion,  and  a  bouquet  of  sweet 
herbs  made  as  directed  in  the  first  chapter ;  when  it 

is  tender  enough  to  permit  the  bones  to  be  drawn 
out  easily,  take  it  up,  lay  it  on  a  pan,  put  another, 
containing  weights,  on  it,  and  press  it  until  it  is  cold ; 
then  cut  it  in  eight  triangular  pieces,  about  the  size 
of  a  small  cutlet ;  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper  ; 
roll  them  first  in  sifted  cracker  dust,  then  in  an  egg 
beaten  with  a  tablespoonful  of  cold  water,  and  again 


46  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

in  cracker  dust ;    fry  them  light  brown  in  enough 
smoking  hot  fat  to  cover  them. 

43.  Piquante  Sauce. — While  the  lamb  is  fry- 
ing, chop  one  tablespoonful  of  capers,  two  of  shallot, 
or  small,  finely  flavored  onion,  and  the  same  quantity 
of  green  gherkins ;  place  them  over  the  fire  in  a 
sauce-pan  with  one  gill  of  vinegar,  two  bay  leaves, 
quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  the  same  of 
powdered  thyme,  and  boil  quickly  until  the  vinegar 
is  reduced  to  one  third  of  its  original  quantity ;  then 
add  half  a  pint  of  rich  brown  gravy  of  any  kind,  or 
of  Spanish  sauce,  which  may  always  be  kept  on 
hand ;  boil  the  sauce  gently  for  five  minutes,  take 
out  the  bay-leaves,  and  pour  a  little  of  the  sauce  on 
the  bottom  of  a  hot  platter ;  when  the  pieces  of 
breast  are  brown,  take  them  up  with  a  skimmer,  and 
lay  them  on  soft  paper,  or  on  a  clean  napkin  for  a 
moment,  to  free  them  from  grease,  and  arrange  them 
in  a  wreath  on  the  platter  containing  the  sauce  ; 
serve  them  at  once,  with  the  rest  of  the  sauce  in  a 
gravy  boat. 

44.  Spanish  Sauce.- — Fry  one  ounce  of  ham  or 
bacon,  cut  in  half-inch  dice,  with  one  ounce  of  fat ; 
add  to  it,  as  soon  as  brown,  two  ounces  of  carrot 
sliced,  two  ounces  of  onion  sliced ;  stir  in  two  ounces 
of  dry  flour,  and  brown  well ;  then  add  one  quart  of 
stock ;  or  if  none  is  on  hand,  one  quart  of  water, 
and  half  a  pound  of  lean  meat  chopped  fine  ;  season 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful 
of  pepper,  and  a  bouquet  of  sweet  herbs,  made  as 
directed  in  the  first  chapter ;  simmer  gently  for  an 


SIDE   DISHES,   OR  ENTREES.  47 

hour,  skimming  as  often  as  any  scum  rises ;  then 
strain  the  sauce,  add  one  gill  of  wine  to  it,  and  use 
it  to  dress  any  dark  meat,  game,  or  baked  fish.  This 
sauce  will  keep  a  week  or  longer,  in  a  cool  place. 

45.  Kromeskys,  -with  Spanish  Sauce. — 
Cut  one  pound  of  cold  roast  lamb,  or  mutton,  in 
half  inch  dice ;  chop  one  ounce  of  onion,  and  fry  it 
pale  yellow  in  one  ounce  of  butter ;  add  one  ounce  of 
flour,  and  stir  until  smooth ;  add  half  a  pint  of  Span- 
ish sauce,  or  water,  if  no  sauce  is  at  hand,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley,  one  level  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one  level  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  half  a 
saltspoonful  of  powdered  herbs,  as  much  cayenne  as 
can  be  taken  up  on  the  point  of  a  very  small  penknife 
blade,  and  the  chopped  meat ;  two  ounces  of  mush- 
rooms, slightly  warmed  with  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
butter,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  improve  the 
^ZNOx:  oi  iV^  kromeskys  exceedingly;  stir  until  scald- 
ing hot,  add  the  yolk  of  one  raw  egg,  cook  for  two 
minutes,  stirring  frequently  ;  and  turn  out  to  cool  on 
a  flat  dish,  slightly  oiled,  or  buttered,  to  prevent 
sticking,  spreading  the  minced  meat  about  an  inch 
thick ;  set  away  to  cool  while  the  batter  is  being 
made. 

46.  Plain  Frying  Batter. — Mix  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  flour  with  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs,  a  level 
saltspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper, 
quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salad  oil,  (which  is  used  to  make  the  bat- 
ter crisp,)  and  one  cup  of  water,  more  or  less,  as  the 
flour  will  take  it  up  ;  the  batter  should  be  stiff  enough 


48  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

to  hold  the  drops  from  the  spoon  in  shape  when  they 
are  let  fall  upon  it ;  now  beat  the  whites  of  the  two 
eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  beginning  slowly,  and  increasing 
the  speed  until  you  are  beating  as  fast  as  you  can  ;  the 
froth  will  surely  come ;  then  stir  it  lightly  into  the  bat- 
ter ;  heat  the  dish  containing  the  meat  a  moment,  to 
loosen  it,  and  turn  it  out  on  the  table,  just  dusted  with 
powdered  crackers  ;  cut  it  in  strips  an  inch  wide  and 
two  inches  long,  roll  them  lightly  under  the  palm  of 
the  hand,  in  the  shape  of  corks,  dip  them  in  the  batter, 
and  fry  them  golden  brown  in  smoking  hot  fat.  Serve 
them  on  a  neatly  folded  napkin.  They  make  a  de- 
licious dish,  really  worth  all  the  care  taken  in  pre- 
paring them. 

47.  Sheep's  Tongues  with  Spinach. — Boil 
eight  sheep's  tongues  in  the  stock  pot,  or  in  hot  water 
with  a  bouquet  of  sweet  herbs,  and  a  gill  of  vinegar, 
for  about  an  hour,  or  until  they  are  quite  tender  ;  then 
remove  them  from  the  stock,  lay  them  on  their  sides 
on  a  flat  dish,  place  over  them  another  dish  with 
weights  on  it,  and  allow  them  to  cool:  trim  them 
neatly,  put  them  into  a  sauce-pan  with  enough  Spanish 
sauce,  or  brown  gravy  to  cover  them,  and  heat  them 
gradually. 

48.  To  boil  Spinach. — Wash  and  trim  one  quart 
of  green  spinach,  put  it  into  a  sauce-pan  holding  at 
least  three  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  and  boil  it  rapidly,  with  the  cover  off, 
until  it  is  tender  enough  to  pierce  easily  with  the 
finger  nail,  which  will  be  in  from  three  to  seven  min- 
utes, according  to  the  age  of  the  spinach ;  then  drain 


SIDE   DISHES,    OR  ENTREES.  49 

it  in  a  colander,  wash  it  in  cold  water,  thoroughly 
drain  it  again,  and  chop  it  very  line,  or  pass  it  through 
a  sieve  with  a  wooden  spoon  ;  put  it  into  a  sauce-pan 
with  enough  Spanish  sauce  or  brown  gravy  to  moisten 
it,  season  it  with  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  that 
quantity  of  white  pepper,  and  heat  it  until  it  steams  ; 
arrange  the  tongues  in  a  wreath  on  a  hot  platter,  put 
the  spinach  in  the  centre,  and  pour  the  gravy  in  which 
the  tongues  were  heated,  over  them.  Serve  hot  at 
once. 

49.  Broiled  Sheep's  Kidneys. — Split  eight 
kidneys  lengthwise,  skin  them,  lay  them  for  half  an 
hour  in  a  dish  containing  a  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil, 
the  same  of  some  spiced  vinegar,  or  table  sauce,  and 
a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  pepper  mixed  equally  ;  turn 
them  frequently ;  then  roll  them  in  cracker  dust,  lay 
them  on  a  greased  gridiron,  and  broil  them,  the  inside 
first ;  when  done  brown,  place  them  on  a  hot  dish, 
with  a  small  piece  of  maitrc  d' hotel  butter  in  each, 
made  according  to  receipt  No.  16,  and  send  them  hot 
to  the  table. 

50.  Liver  Rolls. — Cut  two  sheep's  livers  in  slices 
half  an  inch  thick  ;  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper ; 
spread  over  each  a  layer  of  sausage  meat  as  thick  as 
the  liver,  season  that,  roll  each  slice  up,  and  tie  it  in 
place  with  a  string  ;  on  the  bottom  of  a  baking  pan 
put  one  ounce  of  carrot,  and  one  ounce  of  onion  sliced, 
two  bay  leaves,  one  sprig  of  thyme,  three  of  parsley, 
and  an  ounce  of  salt  pork  sliced  ;  lay  the  liver  on  these, 
put  over  each  roll  a  tablespoonful  of  brown  gravy,  or 
Spanish  sauce,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven 

3 


50  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

about  forty  minutes,  or  until  they  are  thoroughly 
cooked  ;  lay  them  on  a  hot  platter,  add  a  gill  of  stock 
or  water  to  the  pan  they  were  baked  in,  stir  the  vege- 
tables about  in  it,  and  strain  it  over  the  liver.  Serve 
at  once. 

51.  Fried  Brains  with  Tomato  Sauce. — 
Lay  four  pieces  of  calf's  brains  in  cold  water  and  salt 
for  one  hour,  to  draw  out  the  blood  ;  meantime  begin 
a  tomato  sauce  as  directed  below  ;  carefully  remove 
the  outer  skin  without  breaking  the  brains  ;  put  them 
over  the  fire  in  enough  cold  water  to  cover  them,  with 
half  a  gill  of  vinegar,  two  bay  leaves,  a  sprig  of  parsley, 
and  an  onion  stuck  with  three  cloves ;  bring  them  to 
a  boil,  and  simmer  slowly  for  ten  minutes  ;  take  them 
up  carefully,  and  lay  them  in  cold  water  and  salt  to 
cool.  When  cool,  cut  each  one  in  two  pieces,  roll 
them  first  in  cracker  dust,  then  in  one  raw  egg  beaten 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  cold  water,  then  again  in  cracker 
dust,  and  fry  them  in  plenty  of  smoking  hot  fat ;  as 
soon  as  they  are  golden  brown  take  them  up  on  a 
skimmer,  and  lay  them  on  a  soft  paper  or  napkin  to 
absorb  all  fat,  and  then  arrange  on  a  platter  containing 
half  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce. 

52.  Tomato  Sauce. — Put  into  a  thick  sauce- 
pan half  a  can,  or  one  pint  of  tomatoes,  one  ounce  of 
carrot,  and  the  same  quantity  of  onion  sliced,  one 
ounce  of  salt  pork  cut  in  small  bits,  a  bouquet  of 
sweet  herbs,  made  as  directed  in  Chapter  first,  four 
cloves,  one  clove  of  garlic,  if  it  is  liked,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a 
gill  of  stock,  gravy,  or   water;   simmer   slowly  one 


SIDE   DISHES,    OR  ENTRIES.  5 1 

hour,  and  pass  through  a  sieve  with  a  wooden  spoon. 
This  is  an  excellent  sauce  for  any  breaded  side  dish. 

53.  Calf's  Liver  larded. — The  operation  of 
larding  is  done  by  passing  strips  of  larding  pork, 
which  is  firm,  white,  fat  pork,  cut  two  inches  long,  and 
quarter  of  an  inch  square,  in  rows  along  the  surface 
of  a  liver,  placing  the  strips  of  pork  in  the  split  end 
of  a  larding  needle,  and  with  it  taking  a  stitch  about 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  and  one  inch  long  in  the 
surface  of  the  liver,  and  leaving  the  ends  of  the  pork 
projecting  equally ;  the  rows  must  be  inserted  regu- 
larly, the  ends  of  the  second  coming  between  the  ends 
of  the  first,  and  so  on,  until  the  surface  is  covered ; 
the  liver  is  then  laid  in  a  dripping  pan  on  one  ounce 
of  carrot,  one  ounce  of  onions,  and  one  ounce  of  salt 
pork  sliced,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  quarter  of  a 
saltspoonful  of  pepper,  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  one 
of  thyme,  three  bay  leaves,  and  six  cloves ;  a  gill  of 
Spanish  sauce  or  brown  gravy  is  poured  over  it,  and 
it  is  cooked  in  a  moderate  oven  about  an  hour,  until 
it  is  thoroughly  done.  The  liver  should  be  laid  on  a 
hot  platter,  while  half  a  pint  of  Spanish  sauce  or  gravy 
is  stirred  among  the  vegetables  it  was  cooked  with, 
and  then  strained  over  it.  If  served  hot  it  is  a  most 
delicious  and  economical  dish,  being  nearly  as  satis^- 
factory  to  appetite  as  a  heavy  joint  of  roast  meat, 

54.  Blanquette  of  Veal. — Cut  three  pounds 
of  the  breast  of  veal  in  pieces  two  inches  square, 
put  them  in  enough  cold  water  to  cover  them,  with 
one  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of    salt,   a  bouquet   of    sweet   herbs,   made   as 


52  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

directed  in  Chapter  first,  and  an  onion  stuck  with 
three  cloves  ;  bring  slowly  to  a  boil,  skim  carefully 
until  no  more  scum  rises,  and  cook  gently  for  thirty 
or  forty  minutes  until  the  veal  is  tender ;  then  drain 
it,  returning  the  broth  to  the  fire,  and  washing  the 
meat  in  cold  water ;  meantime  make  a  white  sauce  by 
stirring  together  over  the  fire  one  ounce  of  butter  and 
one  ounce  of  flour,  until  they  are  smooth,  then  adding 
a  pint  and  a  half  of  the  broth  gradually,  season  with 
a  little  more  salt  and  pepper  if  they  are  required,  and 
with  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg  ;  when 
the  sauce  has  boiled  up  well,  stir  into  it  with  an 
egg- whip  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs,  put  in  the  meat, 
and  cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring  occasionally ;  a 
few  mushrooms  are  a  great  improvement  to  the 
blanquette  ;  or  it  may  be  served  with  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  chopped  parsley  sprinkled  over  it  after  it  is  put 
on  a  hot  platter. 

55.  Stuffed  breast  of  Veal.  —  Have  the 
butcher  make  what  is  called  a  pocket  in  a  three  pound 
breast  of  veal,  by  cutting  the  flesh  of  the  upper  side 
free  from  the  breast  bones,  taking  care  to  leave  three 
outer  sides  of  the  meat  whole,  so  as  to  hold  the  stufl"- 
ing ;  prepare  a  bed  of  vegetables,  herbs,  and  pork, 
as  directed  for  liver,  in  receipt  No.  53  ;  stufl"  the 
breast,  sew  it  up,  lay  it  on  the  vegetables,  put  four 
ounces  of  salt  pork  cut  in  thin  slices  on  the  top,  sea- 
son it  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  quarter  of  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven 
about  one  hour,  till  thoroughly  done  ;  serve  it  with  a 


SIDE   DISHES,  OR  ENTREES.  53 

brown  gravy  made  the  same  as  the    liver  gravy  in 
receipt  No.  53. 

56.  Stuffing  for  Veal. — Steep  four  ounces  of 
bread  in  tepid  water ;  chop  one  ounce  of  onion,  and 
fry  it  yellow  in  one  ounce  of  butter  ;  wring  the  bread 
dry  in  a  towel  and  add  it  to  the  butter  and  onion  ; 
season  with  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  quarter  of  a  salt- 
spoonful  each  of  pepper  and  powdered  thyme,  or  mixed 
spices,  and  stir  till  scalding  hot,  then  remove  from 
the  fire,  stir  in  the  yolk  of  one  raw  ^gg,  and  stuff  the 
breast  of  veal  with  it.  This  is  a  very  good  stuffing 
for  poultry,  or  lamb. 

57.  Broiled  Pork  Cutlets. — Make  a  Robert 
sauce,  according  to  directions  given  below.  Broil 
two  pounds  of  cutlets  from  the  neck  of  pork,  being 
careful  not  to  burn  them,  and  dish  them  in  a  wreath 
on  a  hot  platter  with  Robert  sauce  poured  on  the 
dish. 

58.  Robert  Sauce. — Chop  two  ounces  of  onion, 
fry  pale  yellow  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  add  two  ta- 
blespoonfuls  of  spiced  vinegar,  and  reduce  one  half 
by  quick  boiling ;  add  half  a  pint  of  Spanish  sauce, 
or  brown  gravy,  and  boil  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes  ; 
then  season  with  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  quarter  of  a 
saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  French 
mustard,  and  serve. 

59.  Pork  Chops  with  Curry. — First  boil  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice  according  to  receipt  No. 
60.  Fry  two  pounds  of  pork  chops  cut  from  the  loin, 
brown  in  a  very  little  butter,  pour  off  all  the  grease, 
add  to  them  half  a  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  and  a  table- 


54  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

spoonful  of  curry  powder  mixed  smooth  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water  ;  cover  the  sauce-pan,  and 
simmer  the  chops  for  fifteen  minutes  ;  then  dish  them 
in  a  wreath  on  a  hot  platter,  pour  the  sauce  on  the 
bottom  of  the  dish,  and  fill  the  centre  with  rice. 

60.  Boiled  Rice. — Wash  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  rice  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  put  it  into  a  quart  of 
boiling  water  with  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  it 
fast  for  twenty  minutes  ;  shake  it  out  into  a  colander, 
drain  it,  and  shake  it  from  the  colander  into  the  cen- 
tre of  the  dish  of  chops  ;  do  not  stir  it  with  a  spoon. 

61.  Broiled  Pigs'  Feet.  —  Boil  four  well 
cleaned  pickled  pigs'  feet  in  stock  or  boiling  water 
W'ith  sweet  herbs,  until  they  are  tender  enough  to 
permit  the  bones  to  come  out  readily  ;  split  them  in 
halves,  take  out  all  the  large  bones ;  trim  and  shape 
them  neatly,  and  cool  them ;  when  cold  season  them 
with  pepper  and  salt,  dip  them  first  in  melted  butter 
and  then  in  cracker  dust,  and  broil  them  over  a  clear, 
moderate  fire,  turning  them  frequently ;  serve  with  a 
little  melted  butter,  lemon  juice,  and  chopped  parsley 
over  them.  ' 

62.  Bnglish  Pork  Pie. — Make  a  plain  pie- 
crust by  mixing  together  with  the  hand,  half  a  pound 
of  flour  and  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  with  enough 
cold  water  to  make  a  stiff  paste  ;  roll  out  about  six 
times  on  a  well  floured  pastry  board,  folding  the  paste 
evenly  each  time  ;  line  the  side  of  an  earthen  pie  dish 
nearly  to  the  bottom  ;  in  the  bottom  put  a  thin  layer 
of  bacon,  about  four  ounces  sliced  ;  pare  and  slice 
half  a  quart  of  potatoes  ;  chop  two  ounces  of  onion  ; 


SIDE  DISHES,  OR  ENTRIES,  55 


cut  two  pounds  of  fresh  lean  pork  in  two-inch  pieces  ; 
lay  all  these  in  the  dish  in  layers,  season  with  half  a 
saltspoonful  of  pepper  and  the  same  quantity  of  pow- 
dered sage  ;  fill  the  dish  with  any  good  cold  gravy, 
cover  with  crust,  wetting  the  edges  to  make  them  fit 
tight  ;  ornament  the  surface  according  to  your  fancy, 
with  leaves  and  fancy  shapes  cut  out  of  the  pastry  ; 
brush  over  witTli  a  raw  egg  beaten  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  water  ;  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  fifteen  minutes  \ 
cover  the  top  with  paper,  and  bake  one  hour  longer ; 
serve  hot,  or  cold,  as  desired. 

63.  Fried  Chicken,  Spanish  Style.— Cut  up 

a  four  pound  chicken  as  for  a  fricassee,  sprinkle  the  | 
pieces  with  salt,  and  Spanish  red  pepper  ;  put  four 
ounces  of  lard  in  a  frying  pan  on  the  fire,  and  when 
smoking  hot,  put  in  the  legs,  back,  thighs,  and  wings ; 
when  they  are  half  done,  add  the  pieces  of  breast,  two 
ounces  of  chopped  onion,  one  clove  of  garlic  chopped, 
a  bouquet  of  sweet  herbs,  made  as  directed  in  Chapter 
first,  and  fry  seven  minutes ;  add  half  a  pound  of  raw 
ham  cut  in  half  inch  dice,  and  fry  till  the  chicken  is 
tender  ;  take  it  out  and  keep  it  hot,  while  you  fry  four 
large  tomatoes  cut  in  dice,  and  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste  ;  then  add  the  chicken,  make  it  quite 
hot,  and  serve  all  together  on  a  platter,  like  2i  fricassee. 

64.  Chicken  Fricassee. — Cut  a  four  pound  J 
tender  chicken  in  joints,  put  it  over  the  fire  in  enough 
cold  water  to  cover  it,  with  one  dessertspoonful  of  salt, 
half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  a  bouquet  of  sweet  herbs, 
made  as  directed  in  Chapter  first,  two  ounces  of  car- 
rot, pared  and  left  whole,  and  one  dozen  button  onions 


56  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

peeled  ;  skim  frequently  as  often  as  any  scum  rises, 
simmer  slowly  until  the  chicken  is  tender,  about  an 
hour,  and  then  take  it  up  to  keep  hot  while  the  sauce 
is  made ;  strain  out  the  vegetables,  and  set  the  broth 
to  boil  ;  mix  one  ounce  of  butter  and  one  ounce  of 
flour  together  over  the  fire  until  they  become  a  smooth 
paste ;  then  gradually  add  a  pint  and  a  half  of  the 
broth,  stirring  the  sauce  with  an  egg-w!iip  until  it  is 
quite  smooth,  season  it  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  dish  it  on  a  hot  platter  ;  half  a  can  of  mushrooms 
greatly  improve  the  flavor  of  \.\\^  fricassee. 

65.  Grilled  Fowl. — Cut  the  legs  and  second 
joints  from  two  cold  roast  fowls ;  score  them  closely, 
season  them  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  lay  them  by, 
ready  to  broil.  Mince  the  rest  of  the  meat  fine. 
Make  a  white  sauce  by  mixing  together  over  the  fire 
two  ounces  of  butter  and  two  of  flour  until  they  form 
a  smooth  paste  ;  gradually  add  enough  boiling  milk 
to  make  a  good  thick  sauce,  season  with  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  white 
pepper,  and  the  same  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg  ;  add 
the  minced  fowl,  and  heat ;  now  broil  the  legs  and 
thighs,  and  after  dishing  the  mince  on  a  hot  platter, 
lay  them  on  it,  and  serve  hot. 

dd.  Minced  Chicken  V7ith  Macaroni. — Put 
four  ounces  of  macaroni  to  blanch  as  directed  in  receipt 
No.  67.  Cut  two  pounds  of  cold  roast  fowl  in  small 
slices,  or  scallops  ;  and  heat  them  in  a  white  sauce, 
as  directed  in  receipt  No.  65  :  dish  them  in  a  border 
of  macaroni,  and  serve  hot. 

67.  Macaroni  "with    Cheese. — Blanch    four 


SIDE   DISHES,  OR   ENTREES,  57 

ounces  of  macaroni  by  putting  it  to  boil  in  two  quarts 
of  boiling  water  and  a  tablespoonful  of  salt ;  boil  it 
until  it  is  tender  enough  to  pierce  with  the  finger  nail, 
drain  it  in  a  colander,  wash  it  well  in  cold  water,  and  let 
it  remain  in  water  while  you  prepare  a  white  sauce  of 
one  ounce  of  butter,  one  of  flour,  and  boiling  milk,  as 
directed  in  receipt  No.  65  : — put  the  macaroni  into  it 
with  two  ounces  of  grated  cheese,  Parmesan  is  the 
best ;  heat  it  thoroughly  ;  dish  it  in  a  border  around 
the  minced  fowl,  which  should  be  piled  in  the  middle 
of  the  dish. 

68.  Broiled  Pigeons. — Carefully  pluck  and 
draw  eight  pigeons,  split  them  down  the  middle  of  the 
back,  flatten  them  by  pounding  them  with  the  blade 
of  a  heavy  knife,  broil  them  on  a  greased  gridiron,  the 
inside  first ;  lay  each  one  on  a  slice  of  buttered  toast, 
and  dress  them  with  a  little  maitre  if  hotel  butter, 
made  according  to  receipt  No.  16. 

69.  Salmi  of  Duck. — Cut  two  cold  roast  wild 
ducks  in  joints ;  put  them  into  a  sauce-pan  with 
enough  Spanish  sauce  to  cover  them,  and  add  two 
dozen  olives  with  the  stones  removed  ;  season  to  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper,  being  guided  in  this  by  the 
seasoning  of  the  Spanish  sauce  ;  heat  thoroughly ; 
meantime  cut  a  dozen  heart  shaped  croutons^  or  slices 
of  bread  about  two  inches  long  and  one  wide,  and  fry 
them  brown  in  plenty  of  hot  fat ;  when  the  salmi  is 
hot,  pour  it  on  a  hot  dish,  and  arrange  the  croutons 
around  the  border  ;  serve  hot. 

70.  Civet  of  Hare. — Skin  a  pair  of  leverets,  or 
young  hares,  carefully  wipe  them  outside  with  a  damp 

3* 


$8  THE    COOKING  MANUAL. 

cloth  ;  remove  the  entrails,  and  wash  the  interior  with 
a  cup  of  vinegar,  which  must  be  saved  ;  cut  them  into 
joints  as  you  would  divide  a  chicken  iox  fricassee ;  cut 
the  back  and  loins  in  pieces  about  two  inches  square ; 
peel  two  dozen  button  onions,  and  fry  them  light 
brown  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  with  half  a  pound  of 
lean  ham  cut  in  half  inch  dice ;  add  the  hare,  and 
brown  well ;  stir  in  two  ounces  of  dry  flour,  add  three 
gills  of  broth,  and  one  gill  of  the  vinegar  used  to  wash 
the  hare,  or  two  gills  of  claret,  season  with  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one  saltspoonful  of  ground  cloves,  and 
half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper  ;  simmer  gently  about  one 
hour,  until  the  hare  is  tender,  and  serve  on  a  hot 
platter  like  chicken  fricassee. 

71.  Jugged  Hare. — Prepare  two  hares  as  for  a 
civetf  in  receipt  No.  70;  in  the  cup  of  vinegar  and 
half  a  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  (or  in  their  place  one  pint 
of  claret,)  put  the  yellow  rind  of  one  lemon,  a  bouquet 
of  sweet  herbs,  prepared  as  in  Chapter  first,  eight 
cloves,  two  blades  of  mace,  two  inches  of  stick  cinna- 
mon, eight  allspice,  one  ounce  of  onion  whole,  one 
ounce  of  carrot  whole ;  boil  all  these  together  half  an 
hour  when  you  are  preparing  the  hare,  as  in  receipt 
No.  70  ;  lay  the  browned  pieces  of  hare  in  an  earthen 
jar ;  season  them  a  little  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper ;  strain  the 
gravy  made  as  above  into  the  jar  ;  put  on  the  cover ; 
fasten  it  in  place  with  a  paste  made  of  flour  and  water, 
and  oiled  on  the  top  to  prevent  cracking.  Bake  the 
hare  in  a  moderate  oven  three  hours.  When  you  are 
nearly  ready  to  dish  it,  cut  a  slice  of  bread  two  inches 


SIDE   DISHES,  OR  ENTREES,  59 

thick,  the  entire  side  of  a  large  loaf,  trim  it  to  a 
perfect  oval,  fry  it  light  brown  in  hot  fat,  put  it  on  a 
platter,  arrange  the  hare  on  it,  and  pour  the  gravy 
over  ;  serve  hot. 

72.  Stuffed  Eggs. — Boil  eight  eggs  for  ten  min- 
utes, until  quite  hard,  lay  them  in  cold  water  until 
they  are  quite  cold  ;  make  a  white  sauce,  as  directed 
in  receipt  No.  65  ;  soak  two  ounces  of  stale  bread  in 
tepid  water  for  five  minutes,  and  wring  it  dry  in  a 
towel ;  put  one  ounce  of  grated  cheese,  Parmesan  is 
the  best,  in  a  sauce-pan  with  one  saltspoonful  of  salt, 
half  that  quantity  of  white  pepper,  as  much  cayenne 
as  can  be  taken  up  on  the  point  of  a  very  small  pen- 
knife blade,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  two  ounces 
of  butter,  and  a  gill  of  the  white  sauce  ;  cut  the  eggs 
carefully  in  halves  lengthwise  after  removing  the  shells, 
rub  the  yolks  through  a  sieve  with  a  silver  spoon,  and 
add  them  with  the  bread  to  the  sauce,  as  prepared 
above  ;  stir  these  ingredients  over  the  fire  until  they 
cleave  from  the  sides  of  the  sauce-pan,  when  they  will 
be  scalding  hot ;  on  a  hot  platter  put  a  layer  of  the 
white  sauce  as  a  foundation  for  the  eggs ;  fill  the 
whites  with  the  forcemeat,  rounding  it  up  to  look  like 
the  entire  yolk  of  an  ^^g^  set  them  on  a  dish  in  a 
pyramid,  and  heat  them  in  a  moderate  oven  ;  send 
whatever  white  sauce  you  have  left  to  the  table  in  a 
boat,  with  the  dish  of  eggs. 

When,  after  preparing  the  eggs  for  the  oven,  they 
are  sprinkled  with  grated  cheese,  and  cracker  dust,  and 
then  browned,  they  are  called  gratinated  eggs,  or  stuffed 
eggs,  au  gratin,  and  are  served  without  any  sauce. 


6o  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

73.  How  to  make  Omelettes.— There  is  no 

great  difficulty  in  making  omelettes,  and  as  they  may 
be  expeditiously  prepared  and  served  they  are  a  con- 
venient resource  when  an  extra  dish  is  required  at 
short  notice ;  care  should  be  taken  to  beat  the  eggs 
only  until  they  are  light,  to  put  the  omelette  into  a 
well  heated  and  buttered  pan,  and  never  to  turfi  it  in 
the  pan  ^  as  this  flattens  and  toughens  it;  if  the  pan  be 
large,  and  only  three  or  four-eggs  be  used  in  making 
the  omelette,  the  pan  should  be  tipped  and  held  by 
the  handle  so  that  the  eggs  will  cook  in  a  small  space 
upon  one  side  of  it ;  instead  of  spreading  all  over  it, 
and  becoming  too  dry  in  the  process  of  cooking. 

There  are  three  secrets  in  the  making  of  a  good 
omelette,  namely,  the  separate  beating  of  the  eggs,  the 
knack  of  stirring  it  upon  the  fire,  and  the  method  of 
transferring  it  from  the  fire  to  the  table.  If  you  will 
carefully  follow  the  directions  here  given,  you  can  pro- 
duce a  dish  dainty  enough  to  satisfy  the  most  fastidi- 
ous eater. 

74.  Plain  Omelette. — If  you  have  to  serve 
eight  persons,  make  three  omelettes  as  follows: 

Put  one  half  an  ounce  (about  a  tablespoonful)  of 
butter  into  a  clean,  smooth  frying-pan,  and  set  it  upon 
the  back  of  the  stove  to  melt ;  stir  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs  with  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  for  one  minute ;  beat 
the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  with  an  egg- 
whip,  beginning  slowly,  and  gradually  increasing  the 
speed  until  the  froth  will  not  leave  the  dish  if  it  be 
turned  bottom  up ;  this  will  take  from  three  to 
five  minutes,  according  to  the  freshness  of  the  eggs ; 


SIDE  DISHES,  OR  ENTRIES.  6 1 

now  pour  the  yolks  into  the  froth,  and  mix  them  gently 
with  a  silver  spoon,  turning  the  bowl  of  the  spoon 
over  and  over,  but  do  not  stir  in  a  circle,  or  rapidly ; 
put  the  frying-pan  containing  the  melted  butter  over 
the  fire,  pour  in  the  omelette,  and  stir  it  with  a  large 
two-pronged  fork  (a  carving  fork  will  do),  carefully 
raising  the  edges  with  the  fork  as  fast  as  they  cook, 
and  turning  them  toward  the  centre,  until  the  omelette 
lies  in  the  middle  of  the  pan  in  a  light  mass,  cooked 
soft  or  hard  to  suit  the  taste ;  when  done  to  the  de- 
sired degree,  turn  it  out  upon  a  hot  dish  without  touch- 
ing it  with  either  fork  or  spoon,  and  send  it  to  the  table 
immediately.  Another  excellent  method  is  to  beat 
three  eggs,  without  separating  the  whites  and  yolks, 
with  one  tablespoonful  of  milk,  and  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  and  put  them  into  a  frying-pan  containing  two 
ounces  of  butter  browned  ;  let  the  omelette  stand  for 
a  moment,  and  then  turn  the  edges  up  gently  with  a 
fork,  and  shake  the  pan  to  prevent  it  burning  or  stick- 
ing at  the  bottom  ;  five  minutes  will  fry  it  a  delicate 
brown,  and  it  should  then  be  doubled  and  sent  to  the 
table  at  once  on  a  hot  dish.  Three  eggs  will  make  an 
omelette  large  enough  for  two  persons,  if  any  other 
dish  is  to  be  served  with  it.  There  are  several  varie- 
ties of  omelettes,  each  named  after  the  ingredient 
prominent  in  the  composition.  We  subjoin  some  ex- 
cellent receipts,  which  may  be  based  upon  the  first- 
mentioned  method  of  preparation  and  cooking. 

75.  Omelette  with  Herbs. — Stir  into  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful   of  chopped  parsley,  one  tablespoonful   of 


62  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

chopped  mushrooms,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  shallot 
or  white  onion  ;  beat  the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff 
froth,  add  them  to  the  yolks,  and  cook  as  in  the  first 
receipt. 

76.  Omelette  with  Ham,  Tongue,  or 
Cheese. — Use  chopped  or  grated  ham,  or  tongue, 
or  cheese,  in  the  proportion  of  one  tablespoonful  to 
one  ^g%  ;  proceed  to  mix  and  cook  in  the  same  way 
as  for  omelette  with  herbs. 

77.  Omelette  with  Oysters. — Blanch  one 
dozen  small  Blue  Point  oysters,  by  bringing  them  just 
to  a  boil  in  their  own  liquor,  seasoned  with  a  dust  of 
cayenne,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  grate  of  nut- 
meg ;  mix  an  omelette  as  above,  omitting  the  herbs, 
place  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  it  begins  to  cook  at 
the  edges,  place  the  oysters,  without  any  liquor,  in  its 
centre,  and  fold  and  serve  it  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  omelette  with  herbs. 

78.  Omelette  "with  Mushrooms. — Choose  a 
dozen  small,  even  sized  mushrooms  ;  if  they  are  can- 
ned, simply  warm  them  in  the  essence  in  which  they 
are  preserved,  and  if  they  are  fresh,  peel  them  by 
dipping  them,  held  by  the  stem,  into  boiling  water  for 
one  moment,  and  heat  them  over  the  fire  with  half  an 
ounce  of  butter  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  put  over 
them  ;  prepare  the  omelette  as  above,  and  as  soon  as 
the  edges  begin  to  cook,  place  the  mushrooms  in  the 
centre,  and  fold^nd  serve  like  the  omelette  with  herbs. 

79.  Spanish  Omelette. — Peel  two  large  ripe 
tomatoes,  cut  them  in  thin  slices,  put  them  into  a  fry- 
ing pan  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt, 


SIDE  DISHES,  OR  ENTRIES,  63 

and  a  dust  of  pepper,  and  toss  them  to  prevent  burn- 
ing, until  they  are  just  cooked  through  ;  make  an  ome- 
lette as  above,  and  as  soon  as  its  edges  are  cooked 
put  in  the  tomatoes,  and  fold  and  serve  the  same  as 
the  omelette  with  herbs. 

80.  Oriental  Omelette. — Heat  a  thick  earthen 
plate  over  a  charcoal  or  wood  fire,  until  it  will  melt 
butter  enough  to  cover  the  bottom  of  it,  dust  on  the 
butter  a  little  pepper,  and  sprinkle  on  a  little  salt ; 
break  into  it  as  many  eggs  as  will  lay  upon  it  without 
crowding,  and  brown  them  underneath  j  then  set  them 
where  the  heat  of  the  fire  will  strike  their  tops,  and  let 
them  color  a  pale  yellow ;  salt  them  a  little,  and  serve 
them  very  hot  upon  the  same  dish  upon  which  they 
were  cooked. 

81.  Omelette  with  Preserves. — Prepare  an 
omelette  as  directed  in  receipt  No.  77,  substituting  any 
kind  of  jelly  or  preserves  for  the  oysters. 

82.  Hovr  to  Cook  Macaroni. — This  is  one 
of  the  most  wholesome  and  economical  of  foods,  and 
can  be  varied  so  as  to  give  a  succession  of  palatable 
dishes  at  a  very  small  cost.  The  imported  macaroni 
can  be  bought  at  Italian  stores  for  about  fifteen  cents  a 
pound  ;  and  that  quantity  when  boiled  yields  nearly 
three  times  its  bulk,  if  it  has  been  manufactured  for  any 
length  of  time.  In  cooking  it  is  generally  combined 
with  meat  gravy,  tomato  sauce,  and  cheese  ;  Gruyere 
and  Parmesan  cheese,  which  are  the  kinds  most  used 
by  foreign  cooks,  can  be  readily  obtained  at  any  large 
grocery,  the  price  of  the  former  being  about  thirty-five 
cents  per  pound,  and  the  latter  varying  from  forty  to 


64  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

eighty  cents,  according  to  the  commercial  spirit  of  the 
vendor  ;  the  trade  price  quoted  on  grocers'  trade  lists 
being  thirty-eight  cents  per  pound,  for  prime  quality. 
This  cheese  is  of  a  greenish  color,  a  little  salt  in  taste 
and  flavored  with  delicate  herbs  ;  the  nearest  domestic 
variety  is  sage-cheese,  which  may  be  used  when  Par- 
mesan can  not  be  obtained.  If  in  heating  Parmesan 
cheese  it  appears  oily,  it  is  from  the  lack  of  moisture, 
and  this  can  be  supplied  by  adding  a  few  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  broth,  and  stirring  it  over  the  fire  for  a  minute. 
When  more  macaroni  has  been  boiled  than  is  used,  it 
can  be  kept  perfectly  good  by  laying  it  in  fresh  water, 
which  must  be  changed  every  day.  There  are  several 
forms  of  Italian  paste,  but  the  composition  is  almost 
identical,  all  being  made  from  the  interior  part  of  the 
finest  wheat  grown  on  the  Mediterranean  shores  :  the 
largest  tubes,  about  the  size  of  a  lead  pencil,  are 
called  macaroni;  the  second  variety,  as  large  as  a 
common  pipe-stem,  is  termed  mazzifii  ;  and  the  small- 
est is  spaghetti,  or  threads  ;  vermicelli  comes  to  market 
in  the  form  of  small  coils  or  hanks  of  fine  yellowish 
threads;  and  Italian  paste  appears  in  small  letters, 
and  various  fanciful  shapes.  Macaroni  is  generally 
known  as  a  rather  luxurious  dish  among  the  wealthy  ; 
but  it  should  become  one  of  the  chief  foods  of  the 
people,  for  it  contains  more  gluten,  or  the  nutritious 
portion  of  wheat,  than  bread. 

83.  Macaroni  with  Bechamel  Sauce. — 
Heat  three  quarts  of  water,  containing  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  salt,  to  the  boiling  point ;  boil  half  a  pound  of 
macaroni  in  it  until  it  is  tender  enough  to  pierce  easily 


SIDE  DISHES,  OR   ENTREES.  65 

with  the  finger  nail;  then  drain  it  in  a  colander,  and 
wash  it  well  in  cold  water ;  while  it  is  boiling  make  a 
Bechamel,  or  white  sauce,  as  in  receipt  No.  84 :  put 
just  enough  of  it  with  the  macaroni  to  moisten  it,  heat 
it  thoroughly  ;  shake  it  up  well  with  two  forks  to  make 
the  cheese  fibrous,  put  it  on  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle  with 
half  an  ounce  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  serve 
it  hot. 

84.  Bechamel  Sauce,  with  Faxmesan 
Cheese. — Stir  together  over  the  fire  two  ounces  of 
butter,  and  two  ounces  of  flour,  until  they  are  perfectly 
blended,  boiling  one  pint  of  milk  meantime  ;  when  the 
butter  and  flour  are  smooth,  pour  the  boiling  milk  into 
them,  stir  in  two  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan  gradually 
and  melt  it  thoroughl}^,  stirring  constantly  until  the 
sauce  is  smooth  ;  if  cream  is  used  instead  of  milk,  and 
the  Parmesan  cheese  omitted,  the  same  is  called  Crea?n 
Bechamel. 

85.  Macaroni  Milanalse  style. — Have  ready 
some  tomato  sauce,  made  according  to  receipt  No.  52, 
or  use  some  fresh  tomatoes  passed  through  a  sieve 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  highly  seasoned  ;  and  two 
ounces  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  ;  put  half  a  pound 
of  imported  Italian  macaroni  in  three  quarts  of  boiling 
water,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  one  saltspoon- 
ful  of  pepper  in  coarse  pieces,  called  mignonette  pep- 
per, and  a  teaspoonful  of  butter ;  boil  rapidly  for 
about  twenty  minutes,  or  until  you  can  easily  pierce 
it  with  the  finger  nail,  then  drain  it  in  a  colander,  run 
plenty  of  cold  water  from  the  faucet  through  it,  and  lay 
it  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  until  you  are  ready  to  use  it. 


66  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

Put  into  a  sauce-pan  one  gill  of.  tomato  sauce,  one 
ounce  of  butter,  and  one  gill  of  Spanish  sauce,  or  any 
rich  meat  gravy  free  from  fat,  and  stir  until  they  are 
smoothly  blended :  put  a  half  inch  layer  of  macarojii 
on  the  bottom  of  a  dish,  moisten  it  with  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  sauce,  sprinkle  over  it  half  an  ounce 
of  the  grated  cheese ;  make  three  other  layers  like 
this,  using  all  the  macaroni.,  cheese,  and  sauce,  and 
brown  the  7nacaroni  in  a  hot  oven  for  about  five  min- 
utes ;  serve  it  hot. 

86.  Macaroni  with  Tomato  Sauce. — Boil 
half  a  pound  of  spaghetti  or  7nacaroni  as  directed  in 
receipt  No.  83,  and  lay  it  in  cold  water.  Make  a 
tomato  sauce  as  follows,  and  dress  the  macarofii  with 
it,  using  only  enough  to  moisten  it,  and  sprinkling  the 
top  with  half  an  ounce  of  grated  cheese  ;  serve  it  hot. 

87.  Tomato  Sauce. — Boil  together,  for  pne 
hour,  half  a  can  of  tomatoes,  or  six  large,  fresh  ones, 
one  gill  of  broth  of  any  kind,  one  sprig  of  thyme,  one 
sprig  of  parsley,  three  whole  cloves,  three  peppercorns, 
and  half  an  ounce  of  onion  sliced  ;  rub  them  through 
a  sieve  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  set  the  sauce  to 
keep  hot ;  mix  together  over  the  fire  one  ounce  of 
butter,  and  half  an  ounce  of  flour,  and  when  smooth, 
incorporate  with  the  tomato  sauce. 

88.  Timbale  of  Macaroni.  {A  siveet  dish)— 
Boil  half  a  pound  of  macaroni  of  the  largest  size,  in 
boiling  water  and  salt  for  fifteen  minutes  ;  drain  it  in 
a  colander,  wash  it  well,  lay  by  one  quarter  of  it,  and 
put  the  rest  into  a  sauce-pan  with  one  ounce  of  butter, 
one  pint  of  milk  or  cream,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  one 


SIDE  DISHES,  OR  ENTREES.  67 

teaspoonful  of  vanilla  flavoring,  and  a  saltspoonful  of 
salt  ;  simmer  it  gently  while  you  line  a  well  buttered 
three  pint  plain  mould  with  the  best  pieces  you  have 
reserved,  coiling  them  regularly  in  the  bottom  and  up 
the  sides  of  the  mould ;  put  what  you  do  not  use 
among  that  in  the  sauce-pan,  and  as  soon  as  it  is 
tender  fill  the  mould  with  it,  and  set  it  in  a  hot  oven 
for  fifteen  minutes ;  then  turn  it  out  on  a  dish,  dust  it 
with  powdered  sugar,  and  serve  it  hot,  with  a  pudding 
sauce. 

89.  Vanilla  Cream  Sauce. — Put  three  ounces 
of  powdered  sugar  into  a  sauce-pan  with  one  ounce 
of  corn  starch,  and  one  gill  of  cold  water ;  mix  them 
smooth  off  the  fire ;  then  put  the  sauce-pan  on  the 
fire  and  pour  in  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  stirring 
smooth  with  an  egg-whip  for  about  ten  minutes,  when 
the  sauce  will  be  thoroughly  cooked  ;  flavor  it  with 
one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and  serve  with  pudding 
at  once. 


CHAPTER  VI. 
LARGE   ROASTS. 

Since  roast  or  rather  baked  meats  so  often  play 
the  chief  part  in  American  dinners,  a  few  directions 
will  be  useful  in  connection  with  their  cooking.  The 
object  in  cooking  meat  is  to  prepare  it  for  easy  masti- 
cation and  complete  digestion  ;  and  it  should  be  ac- 
complished with  the  least  possible  waste  of  the  valu- 
able juices  of  the  meat.  The  roasting  of  meat  before 
the  fire  is  not  often  possible  in  ordinary  kitchens,  but 
with  a  well  managed  oven  the  same  result  can  be  at- 
tained. If  meat  is  placed  before  a  slow  fire,  or  in  a 
cool  oven,  the  little  heat  that  reaches  it  serves  only  to 
draw  out  its  juices,  and  with  them  its  nutritious  ele- 
ments. The  albumen  of  its  cut  surfaces  coagulates  at 
the  temperature  of  a  bright,  clear  fire,  or  a  hot  oven, 
and  thus  seals  up  the  juices  so  that  only  a  part  of 
them  escape,  and  those  are  collected  in  the  form  of  a 
rich  brown,  highly  flavored  crust,  upon  the  surface  of 
well  roasted  meat.  A  good  temperature  for  baking 
meat  is  from  320°  to  400^  Fahr.  If  the  meat  is  put 
into  a  very  hot  oven  for  a  few  moments  to  harden  the 
outside,  the  heat  can  subsequendy  be  moderated,  and 
the  cooking  finished  more  slowly,  so  that  the  meat 
will  be  sufficiently  well  done,  but  not  burned.     Meats 


LARGE  ROASTS.  69 


should  be  roasted  about  twenty  minutes  to  a  pound, 
to  be  moderately  well  done  ;  the  fire  should  be  clear, 
and  steady,  in  order  that  an  equal  heat  may  reach  the 
joint  and  keep  its  interior  steam  at  the  proper  degree 
of  heat ;  after  the  right  length  of  time  has  elapsed, 
care  being  taken  meantime  that  the  meat  does  not 
burn,  it  may  be  tested  by  pressing  it  with  the  fingers  ; 
if  it  is  rare  it  will  spring  back  when  the  pressure  is 
removed  ;  if  it  is  moderately  well  done  the  resistance 
to  pressure  will  be  very  slight ;  and  if  it  is  thoroughly 
cooked  it  will  remain  heavy  under  the  fingers  ;  never 
test  it  by  cutting  into  it  with  a  knife,  or  puncturing 
it  with  a  fork,  for  in  this  way  you  waste  the  rich  juices. 
If  you  wish  to  froth  roast  meat,  dredge  a  little  flour 
over  its  surface,  and  brown  it  a  few  moments  before 
serving  it.  If  it  is  to  be  glazed,  brush  it  with  clear 
stock  concentrated  to  a  paste  by  rapid  boiling,  or  dust 
a  little  powdered  sugar  over  it,  and  in  both  cases 
return  it  to  the  oven  to  set  the  glaze. 

90.  Roast  Beef  with  Yorkshire  Pudding. 
— Have  three  ribs  of  prime  beef  prepared  by  the 
butcher  for  roasting,  all  the  bones  being  taken  out  if 
it  is  desirable  to  carve  a  clean  slice  off  the  top  ;  secure 
it  in  place  with  stout  twine  ;  do  not  use  skewers,  as 
the  unnecessary  holes  they  make  permit  the  meat- 
juices  to  escape  ;  lay  it  in  the  dripping  pan  on  a  bed 
of  the  following  vegetables,  cut  in  small  pieces  ;  one 
small  onion,  half  a  carrot,  half  a  turnip,  three  sprigs 
of  parsley,  one  sprig  of  thyme,  and  three  bay  leaves  ; 
do  not  put  any  water  m  the  dripping  pan  ;  its  tempera- 
ture can  not  rise  to  a  degree  equal  in  heat  to  that  of 


THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 


the  fat  outside  of  the  beef,  and  can  not  assist  in  its 
cooking,  but  serves  only  to  lower  the  temperature  of 
the  meat,  where  it  touches  it,  and  consequently  to 
soften  the  surface  and  extract  the  juices;  do  not  sea- 
son it  until  the  surface  is  partly  carbonized  by  the  heat^ 
as  salt  applied  to  the  cut  fibre  draws  out  their  juices. 
If  you  use  a  roasting  oven  before  the  fire,  the  meat 
should  be  similarly  prepared  by  tying  in  place,  and  it 
should  be  put  on  the  spit  carefully  ;  sufficient  drippings 
for  basting  will  flow  from  it,  and  it  should  be  seasoned 
when  half  done  ;  when  entirely  done,  which  will  be 
in  fifteen  minutes  to  each  pound  of  meat,  the  joint 
should  be  kept  hot  until  served,  but  should  be  served 
as  soon  as  possible  to  be  good.  When  gravy  is  made, 
half  a  pint  of  hot  water  should  be  added  to  the  drip- 
ping pan,  after  the  vegetables  have  been  removed,  and 
the  gravy  should  be  boiled  briskly  for  a  few  minutes, 
until  it  is  thick  enough,  and  seasoned  to  suit  the  palate 
of  the  family ;  some  persons  thicken  it  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour,  which  should  be  mixed  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water  before  it  is  stirred  into 
the  gravy. 

91.  Yorkshire  Pudding. — Put  seven  ounces 
of  flour  into  a  bowl  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  mix 
it  smoothly  with  enough  milk,  say  half  a  pint,  to  make 
a  smooth,  stiff  batter ;  then  gradually  add  enough 
more  milk  to  amount  in  all  to  one  pint  and  a  half,  and 
three  eggs  well  beaten  ;  mix  it  thoroughly  with  an 
egg-whip,  pour  it  into  a  well  buttered  baking  pan, 
bake  it  in  the  oven  one  hour  and  a  half,  if  it  is  to  be 
served  with  baked  beef ;  or  if  it  is  to  accompany  beef 


LARGE   ROASTS.  71 


roasted  before  the  fire,  one  hour  in  the  oven,  and  then 
half  an  hour  under  the  meat  on  the  spit,  to  catch  the 
gravy  which  flows  from  the  joint.  To  serve  it  cut  it 
into  pieces  two  or  three  inches  square  before  taking  it 
from  the  pan,  and  send  it  to  the  table  on  a  hot  dish 
covered  with  a  napkin,  with  the  roast  beef. 

92.  Roast  Loin  of  Veal. — Take  out  the  chine, 
or  back-bone,  frpm  a  loin  of  veal  weighing  about  six 
pounds,  being  careful  to  leave  the  piece  of  meat  as 
whole  as  possible  ;  chop  up  the  bones  and  put  them  in 
a  dripping  pan  with  two  ounces  of  carrot,  one  ounce 
of  turnip,  and  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  parsley ;  stuff 
the  veal  with  a  forcemeat  made  as  in  receipt  No.  93, 
roll  it  up  neatly,  tie  it  firmly  with  stout  cord,  lay  it 
on  the  vegetables  in  the  pan,  and  roast  it  one  hour 
and  a  half.  When  done  take  it  from  the  pan,  and 
keep  it  hot  while  you  prepare  the  gravy  by  putting 
half  a  pint  of  hot  water  in  the  pan,  boiling  it  up  once, 
and  straining  it ;  or  if  desirable  thicken  it  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour  smoothly  dissolved  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cold  water  and  stirred  with  the  gravy. 

93.  Stuffing  for  Veal. — Cut  two  ounces  of  salt 
pork  in  quarter  inch  dice,  and  fry  it  brown  in  half  an 
ounce  of  butter,  with  one  ounce  of  chopped  onion ; 
while  these  ingredients  are  frying,  soak  eight  ounces 
of  stale  bread  in  tepid  water,  and  then  wring  it  dry  in 
a  napkin  ;  add  it  to  the  onion  when  it  is  brown,  with 
one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  half  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  powdered  thyme,  and  the  same  quantity 
of  dried  and  powdered  celery,  and  white  pepper, 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  ;  mix  all  these  over  the 


72  THE    COOKING  MANUAL. 

fire  until  they  are  scalding  hot,  and  cleave  from  the 
pan  ;  then  stir  in  one  raw  ^gg,  and  use  it  with  the  veal. 

94.  Roast  Lamb  with  Mint  Sauce. — Choose 
a  plump,  fat  fore-quarter  of  lamb,  which  is  quite  as 
finely  flavored  and  less  expensive  than  the  hind- 
quarter  ;  secure  it  in  shape  with  stout  cord,  lay  it  in  a 
dripping  pan  with  one  sprig  of  parsley,  three  sprigs  of 
mint,  and  one  ounce  of  carrot  sliced  ;  put  it  into  a 
quick  oven,  and  roast  it  fifteen  minutes  to  each 
pound  ;  when  half  done  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  baste  it  occasionally  with  the  drippings  flowing 
from  it.  When  done  serve  it  with  a  gravy-boat  full 
of  mint  sauce. 

95.  Mint  Sauce  cold. — Melt  four  ounces  of 
brown  sugar  in  a  sauce  boat  with  half  a  pint  of  vine- 
gar, add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  mint,  and 
serve  cold  with  roast  lamb. 

96.  Hot  Mint  Sauce. — Put  one  pint  of  vinegar 
into  a  sauce-pan  with  four  ounces  of  white  sugar,  and 
reduce  by  rapid  boiling  to  half  a  pint,  stirring  to  pre- 
vent burning  ;  add  a  gill  of  cold  water,  and  boil  for 
five  minutes  ;  then  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  chop- 
ped mint,  and  serve  with  lamb. 

97.  Roast  Pork  with  Apple  Sauce. — Neat- 
ly trim  a  loin  of  fresh  pork  weighing  about  six  pounds; 
put  it  into  a  dripping  pan  on  three  bay  leaves,  quar- 
ter of  an  ounce  of  parsley,  one  ounce  of  onion,  and 
the  same  quantity  of  carrot  sliced,  and  roast  it  about 
twenty  minutes  to  each  pound  ;  when  half  done,  season 
it  with  salt  and  pepper  ;  when  brown,  serve  it  with  a 
border  of  Parisian  potatoes,  prepared  according  to  re- 


LARGE   ROASTS.  73 


ceipt  No.  2,  and  send  it  to  the  table  with  a  bowl  of 
apple  sauce. 

98.  Apple  Sauce. — Pare  and  slice  one  quart  of 
good  tart  apples  ;  put  them  into  a  sauce-pan  with  half 
a  pint  of  cold  water  j  stir  them  often  enough  to  pre- 
vent burning,  and  simmer  them  until  tender,  about 
twenty  minutes  will  be  long  enough  ;  then  rub  them 
through  a  sieve  with  a  wooden  spoon,  add  a  saltspoon- 
ful  of  powdered  cloves,  and  four  ounces  of  sugar,  or 
less  according  to  the  taste ;  serve  in  a  bowl,  with  the 
roast  pork. 

99.  Roast  Turkey  -with  Cranberry- 
Sauce. — Choose  a  fat  tender  turkey  weighing  about 
six  or  seven  pounds  ;  pluck  it,  carefully  remove  the 
pin-feathers,  singe  the  bird  over  the  flame  of  an  alco- 
hol lamp,  or  a  few  drops  of  alcohol  poured  on  a  plate 
and  lighted  ;  wipe  it  with  a  damp  towel  and  see  that 
it  is  properly  drawn  by  slitting  the  skin  at  the  back  of 
the  neck,  and  taking  out  the  crop  without  tearing  the 
skin  of  the  breast ;  loosen  the  heart,  liver,  and  lungs, 
by  introducing  the  fore-finger  at  the  neck,  and  then 
draw  them,  with  the  entrails,  from  the  vent.  Un- 
less you  have  broken  the  gall,  or  the  entrails,  in  draw- 
ing the  bird  do  not  wash  it^  for  this  greatly  impairs  the 
flavor,  and  partly  destroys  the  nourishing  qualities  of 
the  flesh.  Twist  the  tips  of  the  wings  back  under  the 
shoulders,  stuff  the  bird  with  forcemeat  made  accord- 
ing to  receipt  No.  100  ;  bend  the  legs  as  far  up  to- 
ward the  breast  as  possible,  secure  the  thigh  bones  in 
that  position  by  a  trussing  cord  or  skewer ;  then  bring 
the   legs   down,  and  fasten  them  close  to  the  vent. 


74  TFIE    COOKING  MANUAL. 

Pound  the  breast  bone  down,  first  laying  a  towel  over 
it.  Lay  a  thin  slice  of  salt  pork  over  the  breast  to 
baste  it  until  sufficient  drippings  run  from  the  bird  ; 
baste  it  frequently,  browning- it  on  all  sides  by  turning 
it  about  in  the  pan ;  use  a  clean  towel  to  turn  it  with, 
but  do  not  run  a  fork  into  it  or  you  will  waste  its  juices  : 
when  it  is  half  done  season  it  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
salt  and  one  saltspoonful  of  powdered  herbs,  made 
according  to  directions  in  Chapter  first ;  when  it  has 
cooked  about  twenty  minutes  to  each  pound,  dish  it, 
and  keep  it  hot  while  you  make  a  gravy  by  adding 
half  a  pint  of  water  to  the  drippings  in  the  pan,  first 
taking  off  a  little  of  the  superfluous  fat,  and  thicken- 
ing it  if  desired  with  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  mixed 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water  ;  serve  the  turkey 
hot  with  a  gravy-boat  full  of  gravy  and  a  dish  of  cran- 
berry sauce  made  according  to  receipt  No.  loi.  The 
same  directions  for  drawing,  trussing,  and  roasting  will 
apply  to  other  poultry  and  game. 

ICO.  Forcemeat  for  Roast  Poultry. — Steep 
eight  ounces  of  stale  bread  in  tepid  water  for  five 
minutes,  and  wring  it  dry  in  a  clean  towel ;  meantime 
chop  fine  four  ounces  each  of  fresh  veal  and  pork,  or 
use  instead,  eight  ounces  of  good  sausage  meat ;  grate 
eight  ounces  of  good  rather  dry  cheese ;  fry  one  ounce 
of  onion  in  one  ounce  of  butter  to  a  light  yellow  color ; 
add  the  bread,  meat,  and  cheese,  season  with  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  powdered  herbs,  made  according  to  direc- 
tions in  Chapter  first,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  saltspoon- 
ful of  pepper,  and  two  whole  eggs  ;  mix  well  and  use. 

loi.  Cranberry   Sauce. — Carefully  pick  and 


LARGE  ROASTS.  75 


wash  one  quart  of  cranberries  ;  put  them  over  the  fire 
in  a  sauce-pan  with  half  a  pint  of  cold  water  ;  bring 
them  to  a  boil,  and  boil  them  gently  for  fifteen  min- 
utes, stirring  them  occasionally  to  prevent  burning; 
then  add  four  ounces  of  white  sugar,  and  boil  them 
slowly  until  they  are  soft  enough  to  pass  through  a 
sieve  with  a  wooden  spoon  ;  the  sauce  is  then  ready 
to  serve. 

1 02.  Roast  Chicken  with  Duchesse  Pota- 
toes.— Prepare  and  roast  a  pair  of  chickens  as  directed 
in  receipt  No.  99  ;  or  for  the  stuffing  named  in  that 
receipt  substitute  No.  93  ;  meantime  boil  one  quart  of 
potatoes,  for  mashing,  and  make  twelve  heart-shaped 
croutons  or  pieces  of  bread  fried  in  hot  fat :  lay  the 
Duchesse  potatoes  around  the  chickens  when  it  is 
dished,  and  the  croutons  in  an  outer  circle,  with  the 
points  outward. 

103.  Duchesse  Potatoes. — Mash  one  quart  of 
hot  boiled  potatoes  through  a  fine  colander  with  the 
potato  masher ;  mix  with  them  one  ounce  of  butter, 
one  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoonful  of 
white  pepper,  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  grated  nut- 
meg, and  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs  ;  pour  the  potato 
out  on  a  plate,  and  then  form  it  with  a  knife  into  small 
cakes,  two  inches  long  and  one  inch  wide  ;  lay  them 
on  a  buttered  tin,  brush  them  over  the  top  with  an  ft^^ 
beaten  up  with  a  teaspoonful  of  cold  water,  and  color 
them  golden  brown  in  a  moderate  oven. 

104.  Roast  Duck  with  Watercresses. — 
Prepare  and  roast  a  pair  of  ducks  as  directed  in  receipt 
No.  99,  and  serve  them  with  a  border  of  a  few  water-* 


76  THE   COOKING  MANUAL, 

cresses,  and    a    salad   bowl  containing  the  rest   of  a 
quart,  prepared  as  in  receipt  No.  105. 

105.  Romaine  Sauce  for  Watercresses. — 
Grate  half  an  ounce  of  onion,  and  use  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  vinegar  to  wash  it  off  the  grater  ;  to  these  add  a 
saltspoonful  of  sugar,  a  tablespoon ful  of  lemon  juice, 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil,  six  capers  chopped 
fine,  as  much  cayenne  as  can  betaken  up  on  the  point 
of  a  very  small  pen-knife  blade,  a  level  saltspoonful  of 
salt,  and  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper  ;  mix  well, 
and  use  for  dressing  watercresses,  or  any  other  green 
salad.  A  few  cold  boiled  pototoes  sliced  and  mixed 
with  this  dressing,  and  a  head  of  lettuce,  makes  a 
very  nice  potato  salad. 

106.  Roast  Goose  with  Onion  Sauce. — 
Prepare  a  goose  as  directed  in  receipt  No.  99  ;  stuff  it 
with  onion  stuffing  made  according  to  receipt  No. 
107  ;  serve  it  with  a  gravy  boat  full  of  onion  sauce 
made  according  to  receipt  No.  108. 

107.  Sage  and  Onion  Stuffing.— Pare  six 
ounces  of  onion,  and  bring  them  to  a  boil  in  three 
different  waters ;  soak  eight  ounces  of  stale  bread  in 
tepid  water,  and  wring  it  dry  in  a  towel ;  scald  ten 
sage  leaves  ;  when  the  onions  are  tender,  which  will 
be  in  about  half  an  hour,  chop  them  with  the  sage 
leaves,  add  them  to  the  bread,  with  one  ounce  of  but- 
ter, the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs,  one  level  teaspoon  ful 
of  salt,  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper ;  mix  and 
use. 

108.  Onion  Sauce. — Prepare  six  ounces  of  onions 
as  in  receipt  No.    107  ;  chop   them  fine,  pass  them 


LARGE   ROASTS.  77 

through  a  sieve  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  put  them 
into  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  with  one  ounce  of  but- 
ter, one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  quarter  of  a 
saltspoonful  of  pepper. 

109.  Roast  Wild  Duck. — Prepare  a  pair  of 
ducks  as  directed  in  receipt  No.  99  ;  do  not  stuff 
them,  but  tie  over  the  breasts  slices  of  pork  or  bacon  ; 
roast  fifteen  minutes  to  the  pound  ;  serve  with  gravy 
in  a  boat  and  quarters  of  lemon  on  the  same  dish. 

no.  Roast  Partridge. — Prepare  a  pair  of  par- 
tridges as  in  receipt  No.  99,  but  do  not  stuff  them ; 
tie  over  the  breasts  slices  of  pork  or  bacon,  and  roast 
about  twenty-five  minutes  ;  serve  with  bread  sauce. 

III.  Bread  Sauce. — Peel  and  slice  an  onion 
weighing  full  an  ounce,  simmer  it  half  an  hour  in  one 
pint  of  milk,  strain  it,  and  to  the  milk  add  two  ounces 
of  stale  bread,  broken  in  small  pieces,  one  ounce  of 
butter,  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  quarter  of  a  salt- 
spoonful of  nutmeg  and  pepper  mixed  ;  strain,  passing 
through  a  sieve  with  a  spoon,  and  serve  hot. 


CHAPTER   VII. 

BOILED   DISHES. 

Boiling  is  the  most  economical  way  of  cooking,  if 
properly  done  ;  there  are  several  important  points  to 
be  considered  in  this  connection.  We  have  already 
said  that  the  best  method  of  cooking  meat  is  that 
which  preserves  all  its  nourishing  juices  ;  if  in  addition 
to  this  we  can  prepare  it  in  such  a  way  as  to  present 
a  large  available  surface  to  the  action  of  the  digestive 
juices,  we  would  seem  to  have  reached  culinary  per- 
fection. Judicious  boiling  accomplishes  this  :  and  we 
cannot  do  better  than  to  follow  Liebig's  plan  to  first 
plunge  the  meat  into  boiling  water,  and  boil  it  five 
minutes  to  coagulate  the  albumen  to  a  sufficient 
depth  to  form  a  crust  upon  the  surface,  and  thus  con- 
fine the  juices,  and  then  add  enough  cold  water  to 
reduce  the  temperature  to  158"  Fahr.,  if  the  meat  is 
to  be  rare,  or  to  165°  Fahr.,  if  it  is  to  be  well  done ; 
and  to  maintain  this  gentle  heat  until  the  meat  is 
tender.  There  is  comparatively  little  waste  in  boil- 
ing, from  the  fact  that  fat  melts  less  quickly  than  in 
broiling  or  roasting,  and  the  covering  of  the  pot  re- 
tards evaporation,  while  the  water  absorbed  by  the 
meat  adds  to  its  bulk  to  a  certain  extent  without  de- 
tracting from  its  quality.     A  strainer  or  plate  should 


BOILED  DISHES.  79 

be  placed  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot  to  prevent  burn- 
ing ;  the  pot  should  be  skimmed  clear  as  soon  as  it 
boils,  and  the  subsequent  simmering  should^be  gentle 
and  steady  ;  there  should  always  be  sufficient  water  to 
cover  the  meat  in  order  to  keep  it  plump.  Less  body 
of  heat  is  required  to  boil  in  copper  or  iron  pots,  than 
in  those  made  of  tin,  especially  if  the  latter  have  pol- 
ished surfaces  which  throw  off  the  heat.  The  pot- 
liquor  from  boiled  meat  should  always  be  strained 
into  an  earthen  jar  and  left  to  cool ;  the  fat  can  then 
be  taken  off  for  kitchen  use,  and  the  liquor  utilized  as 
the  basis  for  some  kind  of  soup. 

112.  Leg  of  Mutton  with  Caper  Sauce. — 
Put  a  leg  of  mutton,  weighing  about  six  pounds,  on 
the  fire  in  enough  boiling  hot  water  to  cover  it ;  boil 
it  for  five  minutes,  skimming  it  as  often  as  any  scum 
rises,  then  pour  in  enough  cold  water  to  reduce  the 
heat  to  about  i6o°  Fahr.,  season  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  salt,  and  simmer  the  meat  at  that  heat  until  it  is 
tender,  allowing  about  twenty  minutes  cooking  to  each 
pound  of  meat ;  if  turnips  are  to  be  served  with  it  as 
a  garnish,  choose  them  of  equal  size,  pare  them 
smoothly,  and  boil  them  with  the  mutton  ;  if  the  vege- 
tables are  cooked  first  take  them  up  without  break- 
ing, and  set  them  back  off  the  fire,  in  a  little  of  the 
mutton  stock,  to  keep  hot.  Just  before  dishing  the 
meat,  make  a  caper  sauce,  as  directed  in  receipt  No. 
113  ;  serve  the  mutton  on  a  hot  dish,  with  the  turnips 
laid  around  it,  and  send  the  sauce  in  a  gravy-boat  to 
the  table  with  it. 

113.  Caper  Sauce. — Put  one  ounce  of  butter 


80  THE    COOKING  MANUAL. 

and  one  ounce  of  flour  in  a  sauce-pan  over  the  fire, 
and  stir  until  smoothly  melted  ;  gradually  pour  in  half 
a  pint  of  .boiling  water,  season  with  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper, 
and  stir  until  the  sauce  coats  the  spoon  when  you  lift 
it  out ;  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  stir  in  two  ounces  of 
butter,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  small  capers,  and 
serve  at  once.  Do  not  permit  the  sauce  to  boil  after 
you  have  added  the  butter^  as  it  may  turn  rancid. 

114.  Boiled  Ham  with  Madeira  Sauce. — 
Choose  a  ham  by  running  a  thin  bladed  knife  close  to 
the  bone,  and  if  the  odor  which  follows  the  cut  is  sweet 
the  ham  is  good  ;  soak  it  in  cold  water  for  twenty-four 
hours,  changing  the  water  once ;  scrape  it  well,  and 
trim  off  any  ragged  parts  ;  put  it  in  enough  cold  water 
to  cover  it,  with  an  onion  weighing  about  one  ounce, 
stuck  with  six  cloves,  and  a  bouquet  made  according 
to  directions  in  Chapter  first,  and  boil  it  four  hours. 
Take  it  from  the  fire  and  let  it  cool  in  the  pot-liquor. 
Then  take  it  up  carefully,  remove  the  skin,  dust  it 
with  sifted  bread  or  cracker  crumbs,  and  brown  it  in 
the  oven.  Serve  it  either  hot  or  cold  ;  if  hot  send  it 
to  the  table  with  a  gravy  boat  full  of  Madeira  sauce. 

115.  Madeira  Sauce. — Put  over  the  fire  in  a 
thick  sauce-pan  one  pint  of  Spanish  sauce  made  ac- 
cording to  receipt  No.  44^  or  the  same  quantity  of  any 
rich  brown  gravy,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  ; 
the  seasoning  must  depend  on  the  flavor  of  the  gravy ; 
when  scalding  hot  add  half  a  pint  of  Madeira  wine, 
and  stir  till  the  sauce  is  thick  enough  to  coat  the 
spoon  ;  then  strain  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  serve  hot. 


BOILED  DISHES.  8 1 

11 6.  Beef  ^  la  Mode  Jardiniere. — Daube  a 
seven  pound  piece  of  round  of  beef,  by  inserting,  with 
the  grain,  pieces  of  larding  pork,  cut  as  long  as  the 
meat  is  thick,  and  about  half  an  inch  square,  setting 
the  strips  of  pork  about  two  inches  apart  ;  this  can  be 
done  either  with  a  large  larding  needle,  called  a  sonde, 
or  by  first  making  a  hole  with  the  carving-knife  steel, 
and  then  thrusting  the  pork  in  with  the  fingers  ;  lay 
the  beef  in  a  deep  bowl  containing  the  marinade^  or 
pickle,  given  in  receipt  No.  117,  and  let  it  stand  from 
two  to  ten  days  in  a  cool  place,  turning  it  over  every  day. 
Then  put  it  into  a  deep  pot  just  large  enough  to  hold 
it,  together  with  the  marinade^  and  turn  it  occasionally 
over  the  fire  until  it  is  nicely  browned ;  cover  it  with 
hot  stock  or  water,  and  simmer  it  gently  four  hours. 
When  it  has  been  cooking  three  hours  cut  about  four 
ounces  each  of  carrots  and  turnips  in  the  shape  of 
olives ;  pare  two  dozen  button  onions ;  and  cut  one 
pint  of  string  beans  in  pieces  one  inch  long  ;  put  all 
these  vegetables  on  the  fire  in  cold  water,  in  separate 
vessels,  each  containing  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half 
a  saltspoonful  of  sugar,  and  let  them  boil  till  tender ; 
then  lay  them  in  cold  water  to  keep  them  white,  until 
ready  to  use  them.  When  the  meat  is  tender,  take  it 
up,  and  keep  it  warm  ;  strain  the  sauce  in  which  it 
has  cooked,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  is  thick 
enough  to  coat  the  spoon  ;  drain  the  vegetables,  and 
let  them  scald  up  in  the  sauce,  and  pour  all  over  the 
beef. 

117.  Marinade. — Cut  in  slices,  four  ounces  each 
of  carrot  and  onion,  two  ounces  of  turnip,  and  one 

4* 


82  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

ounce  of  leeks ;  chop  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  each  of 
parsley  and  celery,  if  in  season ;  slice  one  lemon  ; 
add  to  these  one  level  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  six  cloves,  four  allspice,  one  inch 
of  stick  cinnamon,  two  blades  of  mace,  one  gill  of  oil 
and  one  of  vinegar,  half  a  pint  of  red  wine,  and  one 
pint  of  water.  Mix  all  these  ingredients  thoroughly, 
and  use  the  marinade  for  beef,  game,  or  poultry, 
always  keeping  it  in  a  cool  place. 

ii8.  Boiled  Fowl  with  Oyster  Sauce.— 
Prepare  a  pair  of  fowls  in  accordance  with  receipt  No. 
99,  but  do  not  stuff  them  ;  put  them  into  boiling  water 
enough  to  cover  them,  with  a  level  tablespoonful  of 
salt  to  each  quart  of  water  ;  skim  until  clear,  and  boil 
slowly  until  tender,  about  fifteen  minutes  to  a  pound  ; 
when  nearly  done,  make  an  oyster  sauce,  as  directed  in 
receipt  No.  119,  and  serve  it  on  the  same  dish  with  the 
fowls,  sprinkling  them  with  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley. 

119.  Oyster  Sauce. — Blanch  one  quart  of  oys- 
ters by  bringing  them  to  a  boil  in  their  own  liquor ; 
drain  them,  saving  the  liquor;  wash  them  in  cold  water, 
and  set  them  away  from  the  fire  until  you  are  ready 
to  u^  them  ;  stir  one  ounce  of  butter  and  one  ounce 
of  flour  together  over  the  fire  until  they  form  a  smooth 
paste,  strain  into  them  enough  of  the  oyster  liquor  and 
that  the  chicken  was  boiled  in  to  make  a  sauce  as 
thick  as  melted  butter ;  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  the 
same  of  grated  nutmeg ;  .put  in  the  oysters,  and  serve. 


CHAPTER   VIII. 
SALADS  AND  SALAD  SAUCES. 

"  The  very  herbs  of  the  field  yield  nourishment, 
and  bread  and  water  make  a  feast  for  a  temperate 
man,"  says  Plato ;  and  indeed  the  healthfulness  of 
fresh  vegetables  is  well  enough  known  in  our  day  ;  we 
include  under  this  term  not  only  the  edible  roots,  but 
the  young  shoots  of  succulent  plants,  rich  in  nitrates 
and  mineral  salts,  which  play  an  important  part  in  the 
preparation  of  salads.  Americans  are  beginning  to 
realize  the  wealth  of  green  food  abounding  in  their 
gardens  and  fields,  which  they  have  too  long  abandoned 
to  their  beasts  of  burden.  We  are  wise  in  letting  the 
ox  eat  grass  for  us,  but  with  the  grass  he  too  often 
consumes  tender  herbs  which  might  find  a  place  on 
our  own  tables,  to  the  advantage  of  appetite  and  di- 
gestion. Dandelion,  corn-salad,  chicory,  mint,  sorrel, 
fennel,  marshmallows,  tarragon,  chives,  mustard,  and 
cresses,  and  their  numerous  kind,  grow  wild,  or  can  be 
cultivated  with  but  little  trouble  ;  and  should  find  their 
way  to  favor  in  every  family,  for  with  the  oil  and  vine- 
gar employed  in  dressing  them,  they  promote  digestion, 
and  purify  the  system  ;  while  the  condiments  used 
with  them  are  of  decided  medicinal  value. 

There  is  some   degree  of  truth  in  the  idea  that  a 


84  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

salad-maker  is  born,  not  made,  and  yet  with  due  care 
and  delicate  manipulation,  almost  any  deft-handed  and 
neat-minded  individual  may  become  an  expert  salad 
dresser.  Most  careful  preparation  of  the  green  vege- 
tables is  imperatively  necessary  to  the  production  of  a 
good  salad ;  they  must  be  freshened  in  cool  water, 
cleaned  of  all  foreign  matter,  well  drained  upon  a  clean 
napkin  ;  and,  above  all,  torn  with  the  fingers,  and  not 
cut  with  a  knife.  Then  the  various  ingredients  should 
be  very  delicately  and  deliberately  compounded,  and 
withal  by  a  quick  and  cunning  hand,  and  the  result  will 
be  perfection.  Below  we  give  the  receipts  for  a  class 
of  salads  best  adapted  for  general  use. 

In  the  preparation  of  all  salads  only  good  oil  should 
be  used,  as  none  other  will  produce  invariably  satis- 
factory results.  The  very  best  salads  are  often 
the  result  of  the  inspiration  of  the  moment,  when 
the  necessity  arises  for  substituting  some  ingredi- 
ent near  at  hand  for  one  not  to  be  obtained,  as  in  the 
case  of  the  shad-roe  salad  mentioned  below.  The  for- 
mula called  for  Russian  caviare,  but  Russian  caviare 
was  not  to  be  had,  and  a  cold  shad-roe  was ;  the  con- 
sequence was  its  substitution  and  the  alteration  of  one 
or  two  other  ingredients,  and  the  result,  we  do  not 
hesitate  to  say,  was  the  production  of  one  of  the  most 
delicious  salads  ever  invented.  Let  careful  house- 
keepers not  given  to  these  "  foreign  dishes  "  remem- 
ber that  they  are  not  only  appetizing  but  economical. 

1 20.  Spring  Salad. — Break  one  pint  of  fresh 
mustard  tops,  and  one  of  cresses,  tear  one  good-sized 
lettuce,  and  chop  two  green   onions ;  place  all  lightly 


SALADS  AND   SALAD   SA  UCES.  85 

in  a  dish,  and  ornament  it  with  celery  and  slices   of 
boiled  beet.     Use  it  with  a  cream  dressing. 

i^i.  Watercress  Salad.— Serve  one  quart  of 
watercresses  with  one  chopped  green  onion,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  ground  horseradish,  one  tablespoonful  of 
lemon  juice,  and  two  of  oil,  simply  poured  over. 

122.  Mint  Salad. — Wash  and  clean  the  tender 
tops  of  one  quart  of  spearmint,  lay  them  in  a  bowl 
with  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  chives,  and  dress 
them  with  brown  sugar  and  vinegar,  or  sweet  sauce. 
This  is  an  excellent  accompaniment  for  roast  lamb. 

123.  Cauliflower  Salad. — Place  in  a  salad 
bowl  one  underdone  cauliflower,  broken  in  branches, 
six  small  silver  onions,  six  radishes,  ornament  with 
the  hearts  of  two  white  lettuces,  and  one  dessert  spoon- 
ful each  of  chopped  olives  and  capers ;  dress  it  with 
cream  sauce,  or  plain  oil  and  vinegar. 

124.  Dandelion  Salad. — This  salad  is  a  favorite 
European  dish  ;  one  pint  of  the  plants  are  carefully 
washed  and  placed  in  a  salad  bowl  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  watercresses,  three  green  onions  or  leeks 
sliced,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  plenty  of  oil  or  cream 
dressing.  This  is  one  of  the  most  healthful  and  re- 
freshing of  all  early  salads. 

125.  Asparagus  Salad.— Cut  the  green  tops 
of  two  bunches  of  cold  asparagus  one  inch  long,  mix 
them  with  the  leaves  of  one  lettuce,  a  few  sprigs  of 
mint,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  ornament 
with  tufts  of  leaves,  and  serve  with  a  Mayonnaise. 

126.  Shad-roe  Salad. — Boil  two  roes,  separate 
the  grains  by  washing  them  in  vinegar,  place  them  in  N 


86  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

a  salad  bowl,  with  one  head  of  tender  lettuce  and  one 
pint  of  ripe  tomatoes  cut  thin  ;  dress  them  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  each  of  oil,  lemon  juice,  and  strained 
tomato  pulp,  seasoned  with  cayenne  pepper. 

127.  Green  Pea  Salad. — Place  one  pint  of  cold 
boiled  peas  in  a  bowl  with  one  tablespoonful  of  pow- 
dered sugar  ;  pour  over  them  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil 
and  one  of  vinegar,  and  garnish  with  two  cucumbers 
delicately  sliced.  This  salad  is  excellent  with  a 
Mayonnaise. 

128.  Orange  Salad. — Divest  four  under-ripe 
oranges  of  all  rind  and  pith,  slice  them  into  a  dish, 
season  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  add  the  rind  of  one 
minced,  the  juice  of  one  lemon  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
oil  if  desired  ;  decorate  with  tarragon  tops. 

129.  Spinach  Salad. — Place  one  pint  of  lettuce 
leaves,  and  one  pint  of  tender  spinach  tops  in  a  bowl 
with  a  few  fresh  mint  leaves,  dress  them  with  oil  and 
vinegar  plain,  and  decorate  them  with  sliced  hard 
boiled  eggs.  A  ravigote  sauce  is  excellent  with  this 
salad. 

130.  Tomato  Salad. — Slice  one  quart  of  ripe 
tomatoes,  sprinkle  with  cayenne  pepper,  garnish  with 
chervil  or  fennel,  and  dress  with  oil  or  lemon  juice 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  each. 

131.  Nasturtium  Salad. — Tear  two  white  let- 
tuces into  the  salad  bowl,  sprinkle  over  them  one 
tablespoonful  of  pickled  nasturtiums,  or  capers,  dress 
with  simple  oil  and  vinegar,  and  garnish  with  fresh 
nasturtium  blossoms. 

In  mixing  salad  dressings,  first,  carefully  stir  to 


SALADS  AND   SALAD   SAUCES.  87 

gether  all  the  ingredients  except  the  oil  and  vinegar, 
and  add  these  gradually  and  alternately  a  few  drops 
at  a  time. 

132.  Cream  Dressing. — Where  oil  is  disliked 
in  salads  the  following  dressing  will  be  found  excellent. 
Rub  the  yolks  of  two  hard  boiled  eggs  very  fine  with 
a  spoon,  incorporate  with  them  a  dessert  spoonful  of 
mixed  mustard,  then  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  melted 
butter,  half  a  teacupful  of  thick  cream,  a  saltspoonful 
of  salt,  and  cayenne  pepper  enough  to  take  up  on  the 
point  of  a  very  small  penknife  blade,  and  a  few  drops 
of  anchovy  or  Worcestershire  sauce  ;  add  very  care- 
fully sufficient  vinegar  to  reduce  the  mixture  to  a 
smooth  creamy  consistency  ;  and  pour  it  upon  lettuce 
carefully  prepared  for  the  table. 

133.  English  Salad  Sauce. — Break  the  yolk 
of  one  hard  boiled  itgg  with  a  silver  fork,  add  to  it  a 
saltspoonful  of  salt,  a  teaspoonful  of  dry  mustard,  a 
mashed  mealy  potato,  two  dessert  sjDoonfuls  each  of 
cream  and  oil,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar ;  mix 
until  smooth  and  firm. 

134.  Remolade. — Beat  a  fresh  raw  o^gg,  add  to 
it  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  mustard,  and  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  oil ;  when  smooth  add  just  enough  vine- 
gar to  change  the  color  slightly. 

135.  Sweet  Sauce. — Mix  well  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  oil,  the  raw  yolk  of  one  Qgg,  a  saltspoonful  of 
salt,  a  half  that  quantity  of  pepper,  one  tablespoonful 
of  vinegar,  and  a  dessertspoonful  of  moist  sugar. 

136.  Piquante  Salad  Sauce. — Mix  together 
the  yolks  of  two  hard  boiled  and  two  raw  eggs  j  add 


THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 


one  tablespoonful  each  of  cream  and  oil ;  and,  when 
smooth,  enough  Chili  or  tarragon  vinegar  to  season 
sharply,  about  two  tablespoonfuls. 

137.  Green  Remolade. — One  dessert  spoonful 
each  of  chopped  tarragon,  chives,  and  sorrel,  pounded 
in  a  mortar ;  add  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  half  that 
quantity  of  mignonette  pepper,  one  tablespoonful  of 
mixed  mustard,  a  gill  of  oil,  and  the  raw  yolks  of 
three  eggs ;  when  pounded  quite  smooth,  dilute  it 
with  a  little  vinegar,  and  strain  it  through  a  sieve. 

138.  Oil  Sauce. — Pound  in  a  mortar  one  shal- 
lot or  two  button  onions,  the  yolks  of  two  hard  boiled 
eggs,  a  saltspoonful  of  herbs,  a  tablespoonful  of  vine- 
gar, and  enough  oil  to  thicken  it,  about  one  gill. 

139.  Ravigote  Sauce. — Clean  and  chop  a 
few  salad  herbs,  put  one  teaspoonful  of  each  into  a 
small  pan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  meat  jelly  or  thick 
stock,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt ;  stir  till  the  jelly 
is  hot,  and  then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar, 
and  two  of  good  oil ;  when  thoroughly  mixed  set  the 
sauce-pan  into  a  cool  place,  or  pour  out  the  mixture 
on  a  dish  until  it  is  wanted  for  use. 

140.  Egg  Dressing. — Chop  the  yolks  and 
whites  of  two  hard  boiled  eggs  separately,  but  not 
fine  ;  strew  them  upon  any  salad  after  having  dressed 
it  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  and  one  of  white 
vinegar. 

141.  Anchovy  Salad  Sauce. — Mix  until 
smooth  two  raw  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  the  essence 
of  anchovy,  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  and  two  of 
oil. 


SALADS  AND   SALAD   SAUCES.  89 

142.  Swiss  Dressing. — Pound  two  ounces  of 
old  cheese  in  a  mortar,  add  one  tablespoonful  of 
vinegar,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  dilute  to  the 
consistency  of  cream  with  oil. 

143.  Spring  Dressing. — Beat  the  yolks  of  two 
raw  eggs,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  saltspoon- 
ful  of  dry  mustard,  chop  one  leek  or  two  new  onions, 
and  mix  them  in,  then  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
oil  and  one  of  vinegar  and  mix  thoroughly  ;  tear  up 
two  heads  of  lettuce,  putting  thin  slices  of  boiled 
beets  upon  it,  and  pour  the  dressing  over  all. 

144.  Mayonnaise.  — Place  in  the  bottom  of  a 
salad  bowl  the  yolk  of  one  raw  egg,  a  level  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  the  same  quantity  of  dry  mustard,  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  white  pepper,  as  much  cayenne  as  can 
be  taken  up  on  the  point  of  a  very  small  pen-knife 
blade,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon;  mix  these  in- 
gredients with  a  wooden  salad  spoon  until  they  as- 
sume a  creamy  white  appearance  ;  then  add,  drop  by 
drop,  three  gills  of  salad  oil,  stirring  the  mayonnaise 
constantly ;  if  it  thickens  too  rapidly,  thin  it  with  a 
little  of  the  juice  from  the  second  half  of  the  lemon, 
until  all  is  used ;  and  towards  the  finish  add  gradu- 
ally four  tablespoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar.  Keep 
it  cool  until  wanted  for  use. 

145.  Hot  Salad  Sauce. — This  sauce  when 
cold  is  an  excellent  and  economical  substitute  for 
the  more  expensive  mayonnaise. 

Part  i. — Put  one  ounce  each  of  butter  and  flour 
into  a  sauce-pan  over  the  fire,  and  stir  until  it  is 
melted,  add   gradually  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water, 


90  THE    COOKING  MANUAL. 

season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  quarter  of  a 
saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  stir  till  smooth,  and  set 
a  little  away  from  the  fire,  while  you  make  the  fol- 
lowing sauce. 

Part  2.  Put  the  yolk  of  one  raw  egg  in  a  salad 
bowl,  add  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  half 
that  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  as  much  cayenne  as 
you  can  take  up  on  the  point  of  a  very  small  pen- 
knife blade ;  mix  these  ingredients  with  a  wooden 
salad  spoon  thoroughly,  and  then  add,  a  few  drops  at 
a  time  and  alternately,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  oil, 
and  one  of  vinegar.  Pour  the  preparation  marked 
part  I,  into  this,  gradually  stirring  until  the  sauces 
are  thoroughly  mixed ;  cool  and  use.  This  sauce 
will  keep  for  weeks  in  a  cool  place. 

146.  Romaine  Salad  Dressing. — Grate  half 
an  ounce  of  onion,  mix  it  with  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice,  a  saltspoonful  each  of  salt  and  powdered  sugar, 
a  level  saltspoonful  each  of  white  pepper,  and  dry 
mustard,  then  gradually  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
oil,  and  one  of  vinegar.  Use  for  lettuce  or  tomato 
salad 


CHAPTER  IX. 

VEGETABLES. 

Soft  water  is  the  best  for  boiling  all  vegetables. 
Fresh  vegetables  boil  in  one-third  less  time  than  stale 
ones.  Green  vegetables  should  be  put  into  plenty  of 
boiling  water  and  salt,  and  boiled  rapidly,  without 
covering,  only  until  tender  enough  to  pierce  with  the 
finger  nail ;  a  bit  of  common  washing  soda,  or  of 
carbonate  of  ammonia,  as  large  as  a  dried  pea,  put 
into  the  boiling  water  with  any  of  the  vegetables 
except  beans,  counteracts  any  excess  of  mineral  ele- 
ments in  them,  and  helps  to  preserve  their  color.  A 
lump  of  loaf  sugar  boiled  with  turnips  neutralizes 
their  excessive  bitterness.  Cabbage,  potatoes,  car- 
rots, turnips,  parsnips,  onions,  and  beets,  are  injured 
by  being  boiled  with  fresh  meat,  and  they  also  hurt 
the  color  of  the  meat,  and  impair  its  tenderness  and 
flavor.  When  vegetables  are  cooked  for  use  with 
salt  meat,  the  meat  should  first  be  cooked  and  taken 
from  the  pot  liquor,  and  the  vegetables  boiled  in  the 
latter.  The  following  table  will  be  a  guide  in  boil- 
ing vegetables,  but  it  must  be  remembered  that  the 
youngest  and  freshest  boil  in  the  least  time ;  and  that 
in  winter  all  the  roots  except  potatoes  require 
nearly  double  the  time  to  cook,  that  they  would  take 


92  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

in  summer,  when  they  are  new ;  spinach,  ten  to  fif- 
teen minutes;  brussels  sprouts,  peas,  cauliflowers, 
and  asparagus,  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes ;  potatoes, 
cabbage,  corn,  and  string-beans,  twenty  to  thirty  min- 
utes ;  turnips,  onions,  and  squash,  twenty  to  forty 
minutes ;  beets,  carrots,  and  parsnips,  about  one 
hour. 

147.  Asparagus  -with  Melted  Butter. — 
Trim  the  white  tough  ends  from  two  bunches  of  as- 
paragus, tie  it  in  packages  of  about  a  dozen  stalks 
each ;  put  them  into  three  quarts  of  boiling  water, 
with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  and  boil  them  gen- 
tly until  done,  about  twenty  minutes ;  meantime 
make  some  drawn  butter  according  to  receipt  for 
caper  sauce,  omitting  the  capers;  fit  two  slices  of 
toast  to  the  bottom  of  the  dish  you  intend  to  use, 
dip  it  for  one  instant  in  the  water  in  which  the  aspar- 
agus has  been  boiled,  lay  it  on  the  dish,  and  arrange 
the  asparagus  in  a  ring  on  it  with  the  heads  in  the 
centre  ;  send  the  butter  to  the  table  in  a  gravy  boat, 
with  the  dish  of  asparagus. 

148.  Green  Peas. — Boil  two  quarts  of  freshly 
shelled  peas  in  two  quarts  of  boiling  water  with  half 
an  ounce  of  butter,  one  bunch  of  green  mint,  and 
one  teaspoonful  each  of  sugar  and  salt,  until  they 
begin  to  sink  to  the  bottom  of  the  sauce-pan :  drain 
them  in  a  colander,  season  them  with  a  saltspoonful 
of  salt,  and  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and 
send  them  to  the  table  hot. 

149.  String  Beans. — These  beans  are  generally 
marketed  while  they  are  unripe,  and  cooked   in  the 


VEGETABLES.  93 


shell ;  in  that  condition  two  quarts  of  them  should 
be  stringed,  split  in  halves,  cut  in  pieces  two  inches 
long,  and  thrown  into  boiling  water  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  but  no  soda  or  ammonia  should  be 
addedy  as  its  action  discolors  them  j  a  few  sprigs  of 
parsley  and  an  ounce  of  pork  can  be  boiled  with  them 
to  their  improvement ;  when  they  are  tender,  which 
will  be  in  about  half  an  hour,  they  should  be  drained, 
and  served  with  melted  butter,  made  as  for  caper 
sauce,  but  without  the  capers. 

150.  Baked  Beets. — Clean  eight  smooth  beets 
with  a  soft  cloth  or  brush ;  bake  them  in  a  moderate 
oven  about  one  hour;  rub  off  the  skin,  baste  them 
with  butter  and  lemon  juice,  return  them  to  the  oven 
for  five  minutes,  and  serve  them  hot. 

151.  Brussels  Sprouts. — Trim  two  quarts  of 
Brussels  sprouts,  wash  them  thoroughly,  put  them  in 
three  quarts  of  boiling  water  with  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  salt,  and  boil  them  gently  until  tender,  about  fifteen 
minutes,  shaking  the  sauce-pan  occasionally;  then 
drain  them  in  a  colander,  being  careful  not  to  break 
them ;  put  them  again  into  the  sauce-pan  with  one 
ounce  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  white 
pepper ;  toss  them  gently  over  the  fire,  while  you 
make  some  rounds  of  buttered  toast  for  the  bottom 
of  a  platter ;  when  this  is  ready  shake  the  Brussels 
sprouts  upon  it,  and  serve  hot.  Some  persons  like 
the  addition  of  two  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese  ;  and  others  serve  them  with  the  Bechamel 
sauce  named  in  receipt  No.  84. 


94  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

152.  Stufifed  Cabbage. — Cut  the  leaves  of  a 
large  white  cabbage  as  whole  as  possible,  cut  out  the 
stalks,  wash  the  leaves  well,  and  boil  them  only  until 
tender^  in  three  quarts  of  boiling  water  and  salt,  with 
a  piece  of  soda  as  large  as  a  dried  pea ;  have  ready 
some  sausage  meat  highly  seasoned,  and  as  soon  as  the 
cabbage  is  tender  carefully  drain  it  in  a  colander,  run 
cold  water  from  the  faucet  over  it,  and,  without  tear- 
ing the  leaves,  lay  them  open  on  the  table,  two  or  three 
upon  each  other,  making  eight  or  ten  piles.  Divide 
the  sausage  meat,  and  lay  a  portion  in  the  centre  of 
each,  fold  the  cabbage  over  it  in  a  compact  roll  and 
tie  it  in  place  with  cord ;  lay  the  rolls  on  a  baking 
sheet,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  put  over  each  a 
tablespoonful  of  any  rich  brown  gravy  and  brown  a 
little  in  a  quick  oven ;  serve  at  once,  on  small  rounds 
of  toast. 

153.  Red  Cabbage. — Cut  a  firm  head  of  red 
cabbage  in  shreds,  lay  it  in  a  sauce-pan  with  the  fol- 
lowing ingredients ;  one  gill  of  vinegar,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  each  of  ground  cloves  and  salt,  half  a  saltspoon- 
ful  of  pepper,  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  two  ounces 
of  sugar  ;  stew  it  gently  until  tender,  about  one  hour, 
shaking  the  pan  to  prevent  burning,  and  serve 
it  hot. 

154.  Baked  Cauliflower. — Thoroughly  wash 
a  large  cauliflower,  boil  it  in  plenty  of  boiling  water 
and  salt,  until  tender,  about  twenty  minutes ;  drain 
it  whole  ;  pour  over  it  one  gill  of  Bechaviel  sauce, 
made  as  in  receipt  No.  84,  dust  it  thickly  with  crack- 
er  dust,  or   bread  crumbs,   and   Parmesan  cheese, 


VEGETABLES.  95 


mixed  in  equal  proportions,  and  brown  it  ten  min- 
utes in  a  quick  oven. 

155.  Baked  Turnips. — Pare  six  large  yellow 
turnips,  slice  them,  and  boil  them  till  tender  in  plenty 
of  salted  water ;  drain  them,  put  them  on  a  flat  dish  in 
layers,  pour  over  them  half  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce, 
dust  them  thickly  with  crumbs  and  grated  Parmesan 
cheese  ;  brown  them  in  a  quick  oven,  and  serve  hot. 

156.  Glazed  Onions. — Pare  three  dozen  but- 
ton onions,  put  them  on  a  tin  dish,  pour  over  them 
a  very  little  Spanish  sauce  or  brown  gravy,  just 
enough  to  moisten  them,  season  them  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of 
pepper ;  brown  them  in  a  quick  oven,  shaking  them 
occasionally  to  color  them  equally ;  serve  hot. 

157.  Mushroom  Pudding. — Cleanse  a  quart 
of  fresh  mushrooms,  cut  them  in  small  pieces,  mix 
them  with  half  a  pound  of  minced  ham  or  bacon,  sea- 
son them  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper ;  spread  them  on  a  roly-poly  crust 
made  by  mixing  one  pound  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of 
shortening,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  with  about  one 
pint  of  water :  roll  up  the  crust,  tie  it  tightly  in  a  floured 
cloth,  and  boil  it  about  two  hours  in  boiling  stock, 
or  salted  water ;  serve  hot  with  bread,  or  vegetables. 

158.  Boiled  Potatoes. — Potatoes  should  be 
prepared  for  boiling  by  first  carefully  washing  them, 
removing  the  deep  eyes  or  defective  parts,  and  then 
paring  off  one  ring  all  around  the  potato  ;  place  them 
in  cold  water  with  a  little  salt ;  when  cooked,  which 
will    be   in    from   twenty   to    thirty   minutes,   pour 


96  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

off  all  the  water,  cover  them  with  a  clean,  coarse 
towel,  leaving  off  the  lid  of  the  pot^  and  set  them  on  a 
hot  brick  on  the  back  of  the  fire  to  steam.  Pota- 
toes treated  in  this  way  can  be  kept  fresh,  hot  and 
mealy  for  hours.  Medium-sized  and  smooth  pota- 
toes are  the  most  economical  to  use,  and  the  kind 
should  be  selected  in  reference  to  the  season. 

159.  Lyonnaise  Potatoes. — Chop  two  ounces 
of  onion,  and  fry  it  pale  yellow  in  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter; meantime  peel  boiled  potatoes,  either  hot  or 
cold,  cut  them  in  slices,  put  them  into  the  pan  con- 
taining the  onion  and  butter,  season  them  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pep- 
per, fry  them  pale  brown,  shaking  the  pan  to  prevent 
burning,  and  tossing  it  to  brown  them  evenly ; 
sprinkle  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley, 
and  serve  at  once. 

160.  Stuffed  Potatoes. — Wash  twelve  large 
potatoes  with  a  brush  ;  bake  them  only  until  they  be- 
gin to  softeji ;  not  more  than  half  an  hour ;  cut  off 
one  end,  scoop  out  the  inside  with  a  teaspoon  into  a 
sauce-pan  containing  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  white  pepper,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  two  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese ;  stir  all 
these  ingredients  over  the  fire  until  they  are  scalding 
hot ;  then  fill  the  potato  skins  with  the  mixture,  put 
on  the  ends,  press  the  potatoes  gently  in  shape,  heat 
them  in  the  oven,  and  serve  them  on  a  hot  dish  cov-. 
ered  with  a  napkin,  the  potatoes  being  laid  on  the 
napkin.  Observe  never  to  cover  a  baked  potato  unless 
you  want  it  to  be  heavy  and  moist. 


VEGETABLES.  97 


161.  Potato  Snow. — Peel  a  quart  of  white  po- 
tatoes, and  boil  them  as  directed  in  receipt  No.  158; 
drain  them  thoroughly,  put  them  in  a  sieve  over  the 
dish  in  which  they  are  to  be  served,  and  rub  them 
through  it  with  a  potato  masher,  or  a  wooden  spoon ; 
do  not  stir  them  after  they  are  put  into  the  dish,  and 
serve  them  hot. 

162.  Bermuda  or  New  Potatoes. — Wash  a 
quart  of  new  potatoes  thoroughly,  put  them  into 
plenty  of  boiling  water  and  salt,  and  boil  them  until 
tender  enough  to  pierce  easily  with  a  fork;  drain  off 
the  water,  cover  them  with  a  towel,  let  them  steam 
five  minutes,  and  serve  them  in  their  jackets. 

163.  Broiled  Potatoes.— Boil  a  quart  of  even 
sized  potatoes  until  tender,  but  do  not  let  them  grow 
mealy ;  drain  off  the  water,  peel  the  potatoes,  cut 
them  in  half  inch  slices,  dip  them  in  melted  butter, 
and  broil  them  over  a  moderate  fire  ;  serve  hot,  with 
a  little  butter  melted. 

164.  Saratoga  Potatoes. — Peel  a  quart  of 
potatoes,  cut  them  in  very  thin  slices,  and  lay  them 
in  cold  water  and  salt  for  an  hour  or  more  ;  then  dry 
them  on  a  towel,  throw  them  into  a  deep  kettle  of 
smoking  hot  fat,  and  fry  them  light  brown ;  take  them 
out  of  the  fat  with  a  skimmer  into  a  colander,  scatter 
over  them  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  shake  them  well 
about,  and  turn  them  on  a  platter  to  serve. 

165.  Broiled  Tomatoes.— Wipe  half  a  dozen 
large  red  tomatoes,  cut  them  in  half  inch  slices,  dip 
them  in  melted  butter,  season  them  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, dip  them  in  cracker  crumbs,  and  broil  them  on 

1; 


98  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

an  oiled  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire,  being  very 
careful  not  to  break  the  slices  in  turning  them.  Serve 
them  with  chops  for  breakfast. 

1 66.  Stuffed  Tomatoes. — Cut  off  the  tops  from 
eight  or  ten  large  smooth  round  tomatoes  ;  scoop  out 
the  inside,  and  put  it  into  a  sauce-pan  with  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  scraps  of  ham,  bacon  or  tongue  minced 
fine,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  two  ounces  of  butter,  half 
an  ounce  of  chopped  parsley,  and  four  ounces  of 
grated  cheese  and  bread  crumbs  mixed ;  stir  these 
ingredients  over  the  fire  until  they  are  scalding  hot, 
fill  the  tomato  skins  with  this  forcemeat,  fit  them 
neatly  together,  dust  them  with  sifted  bread  crumbs, 
put  over  each  a  very  little  sweet  oil  to  prevent  burn- 
ing, brown  them  in  a  quick  oven,  and  serve  them  on 
a  hot  dish  with  their  own  gravy  turned  over  them. 

167.  Saratoga  Onions. — Slice  half  a  dozen 
delicately  flavored  onions  in  small  strips  ;  drop  them 
into  plenty  of  smoking  hot  fat,  fry  them  pale  brown, 
and  drain  them  for  a  moment  in  a  colander.  Serve 
hot  for  breakfast  or  lunch. 

168.  Fried  Beans. — Fry  two  ounces  of  chop- 
ped onions  in  one  ounce  of  butter  until  golden 
brown  ;  put  into  them  about  a  quart  of  cold  boiled 
white  beans,  season  them  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  half  a  saltspooonful  of  pepper,  moisten  them  with 
half  a  pint  of  any  brown  gravy,  and  serve  them  hot. 

169.  Ham  and  Beans. — Put  into  a  sauce-pan 
two  ounces  of  butter,  half  a  saltspoonful  each  of 
salt  and  pepper,  one  quart  of  cold  beans,  and  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  ham  chopped  fine ;  moisten  these 


VEGETABLES.  99 


ingredients  with  a  little  gravy  of  any  kind,  heat  them 
thoroughly,  and  serve  at  once. 

170.  Kolcannon. — Mince  an  ounce  of  onion, 
fry  it  pale  yellow  in  one  ounce  of  butter,  add  to  it 
equal  parts  of  cold  boiled  potatoes  and  cabbage, 
season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  and  fry  for  fifteen  minutes ;  serve 
hot  for  breakfast  or  lunch. 

171.  Carrot  Stew. — Clean,  boil,  and  quarter 
three  large  carrots  ;  cut  the  pieces  in  two ;  simmer 
them  gently  in  milk  enough  to  cover  them,  season 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  saltspoonful  of  pep- 
per; when  they  are  quite  tender  take  them  off  the 
fire  long  enough  to  stir  in  the  raw  yolk  of  an  egg, 
return  them  to  the  fire  two  minutes  to  cook  the  egg, 
and  serve  them  hot  at  once. 

172.  Baked  Mushrooms. — Clean  a  quart  of 
medium  sized  mushrooms,  trim  off  the  roots,  dip 
them  first  in  some  maitre  d'hotel  butter  made  of 
equal  parts  of  chopped  parsley,  lemon  juice,  and 
sweet  butter,  then  roll  them  in  cracker  or  bread 
crumbs,  lay  them  on  a  dish,  and  just  brown  them  in 
a  quick  oven. 

173.  StuflFed  Lettuce. — Choose  four  round 
firm  heads  of  lettuce,  first  bring  them  to  a  boil  in  hot 
water  and  salt,  drain  them  carefully,  cut  out  the 
stalk  end,  fill  the  inside  of  the  head  with  minced 
veal  or  chicken  highly  seasoned,  lay  them  on  a  bak- 
ing pan,  put  a  tablespoonful  of  some  brown  gravy 
over  each,  and  then  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about 
fifteen  minutes.  '~* 


lOO  THE    COOKING  MANUAL. 

174.  Stewed  Parsnips.-rWash  eight  parsnips, 
carefully  cut  each  in  four  pieces,  boil  them  in  plenty 
of  water,  until  tender,  from  twenty  minutes  to  an 
hour,  according  to  the  season  ;  then  drain  off  the 
water,  make  a  layer  of  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt 
pork  on  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  put  the  parsnips  in 
again,  and  fry  them  until  brown ;  serve  the  pork 
with  them  on  a  platter. 


CHAPTER   X. 

CHEAP   DISHES  WITHOUT  MEAT. 

"  Bread  is  the  staff  of  life ;  "  in  all  ages  and  coun- 
tries farinaceous  foods  have  formed  the  bulk  of  man's 
sustenance ;  under  this  general  term  we  include  maca- 
roni, which  contains  more  gluten  than  bread  and 
consequently  is  more  nourishing,  the  different  wheat 
flours,  oat  and  barley  meal,  pearl  barley,  peas,  beans, 
and  lentils ;  the  latter  are  the  nearest  article  to  meat 
in  point  of  nourishment,  containing  heat-food  in 
quantity  nearly  equal  to  wheat,  and  twice  as  much 
flesh  food.  Lentils  have  been  used  for  food  in  older 
countries  from  time  immemorial,  and  it  is  quite  time 
that  we  should  become  acquainted  with  their  merits ; 
a  lentil  soup  is  given  in  the  second  chapter,  and  in 
this  we  append  some  excellent  directions  for  cooking 
this  invaluable  food.  One  quart  of  lentils  when 
cooked  will  make  four  pounds  of  hearty  food. 
There  are  two  varieties  in  market ;  the  small  flat 
brown  seed,  called  lentils  d,  la  reine  j  and  a  larger 
kind,  about  the  size  of  peas,  and  of  a  greenish  color; 
both  sorts  are  equally  well  flavored  and  nutritious. 
There  is  no  reason  why,  with  judicious  seasoning,  the 
"  dinner  of  herbs  "  should  lack  the  gustatory  enjoy- 
ment which  is  popularly  supposed  to  belong  to  the 


I02  THE   COOKIXG  MANUAL. 

repast  furnished  by  the  "  stalled  ox;"  especially  if 
we  are  economical  enough  to  save  towards  making  it 
any  pot-liquor,  or  cold  meat  gravy  or  drippings, 
which  are  left  from  a  feast-day, 

175.  Potato  Soup. — Slice  six  onions,  fry  them 
brown  with  two  ounces  of  drippings,  then  add  two 
ounces  of  flour  and  brown  it ;  add  four  quarts  of 
boiling  water,  and  stir  till  the  soup  boils ;  season 
with  a  level  tablespoonful  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoonful  of 
pepper ;  add  one  quart  of  potatoes  peeled  and  cut  fine, 
and  boil  all  until  they  are  tender;  then  stir  in  four 
ounces  of  oatmeal  mixed  smooth  with  a  pint  of  cold 
water,  and  boil  fifteen  minutes ;  this  soup  should  be 
stirred  often  enough  to  prevent  burning  ;  when  it  is 
nearly  done  mix  together  off  the  fire  one  ounce  each 
of  butter  and  flour,  and  stir  them  into  the  soup ; 
when  it  boils  up  pass  through  a  sieve  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  and  serve  hot  with  plenty  of  bread. 

176.  Scotch  Crowdie. — Boil  one  pound  of  oat- 
meal one  hour  in  four  quarts  of  any  kind  of  pot- 
liquor,  stirring  often  enough  to  prevent  burning; 
season  with  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  a  level  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  serve 
with  plenty  of  bread. 

177.  Peas-pudding. — Soak  three  pints  of  dried 
peas  in  cold  water  over  night ;  tie  them  loosely  in  a 
clean  cloth,  and  boil  them  about  two  hours  in  pot- 
liquor  or  water,  putting  them  into  it  cold  and  bring- 
ing them  gradually  to  a  boil ;  drain  them,  pass  them 
through  a  sieve  with  a  wooden  spoon,  season  them 
with  a  level  tablespoonful  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoonful 


CHEAP  DISHES   WITHOUT  MEAT.         103 

of  pepper,  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  one  egg,  if  it  is 
on  hand  ;  mix,  tie  in  a  clean  cloth,  and  boil  half  an 
hour  longer ;  then  turn  it  from  the  cloth,  on  a  dish, 
and  serve  hot. 

178.  Red  Herrings  with  Potatoes. — Soak 
a  dozen  herrings  in  cold  water  for  one  hour ;  dry 
and  skin  them,  split  them  down  the  back,  and  lay 
them  in  a  pan  with  two  ounces  of  drippings,  two 
ounces  of  onion  chopped  fine,  a  saltspoonful  of  pep- 
per, and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar ;  and  set 
them  in  a  moderate  oven  to  brown  for  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes  :  meantime,  boil  one  quart  of  potatoes,  with 
a  ring  of  the  paring  taken  off,  in  plenty  of  boiling 
water  and  salt,  pouring  off  the  water  as  soon  as  they 
are  tender,  and  letting  them  stand  on  the  back  of  the 
fire,  covered  with  a  dry  towel,  for  five  minutes  ;  serve 
them  with  the  herrings,  taking  care  to  dish  both  quite 
hot. 

179.  Oatmeal  Porridge. — Boil  two  ounces  of 
chopped  onion  in  two  quarts  of  skim  milk  ;  mix  half 
a  pound  of  oatmeal  smooth  with  about  a  pint  of  milk, 
pour  it  into  the  boiling  milk,  season  it  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  boil  it  about  twenty  minutes,  stir- 
ring to  prevent  burning,  and  serve  hot. 

180.  Cheese  Pudding. — Into  two  quarts  of 
boiling  water,  containing  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt, 
stir  one  pound  of  yellow  Indian  meal,  and  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  grated  cheese ;  boil  it  for 
twenty  minutes,  stirring  it  occasionally  to  prevent 
burning ;  then  put  it  in  a  buttered  baking  pan, 
sprinkle  over  the  top  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated 


I04  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

cheese,  and  brown  in  a  quick  oven.     Serve  hot.     If 
any  remains,  sHce  it  cold  and  fry  it  brown. 

i8i.  Polenta. — Boil  one  pound  of  yellow  In- 
dian meal  for  half  an  hour,  in  two  quarts  of  pot- 
liquor,  stirring  it  occasionally  to  prevent  burning; 
then  bake  it  for  half  an  hour  in  a  buttered  baking 
dish,  and  serve  it  either  hot;  or,  when  cold,  slice  it 
and  fry  it  in  smoking  hot  fat.  This  favorite  Italian 
dish  is  closely  allied  to  the  hasty-pudding  of  New 
England,  whose  praises  have  been  sung  by  poe- 
tasters. 

182.  Fish  Pudding.— Make  a  plain  paste  by 
mixing  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lard  or  sweet  drippings 
with  half  a  pound  of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  just  water  enough  to  make  a  stift*  paste;  roll  it 
out;  line  the  edges  of  a  deep  pudding  dish  with  it 
half  way  down ;  fill  the  dish  with  layers  of  fresh  cod- 
fish cut  in  small  pieces,  using  two  or  three  pounds, 
season  each  layer  with  salt,  pepper,  chopped  pars- 
ley, and  chopped  onions,  using  one  tablespoonful  of 
salt,  one  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  two  bay  leaves,  a 
saltspoonful  of  thyme,  four  ounces  of  onion,  and  half 
an  ounce  of  parsley ;  fill  up  the  dish  with  any  cold 
gravy,  milk,  or  water,  cover  with  paste,  and  bake  fif- 
teen minutes  in  a  quick  oven  ;  finish  by  baking  half 
an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven ;  serve  hot. 

183.  Lentils  boiled  plain. — Wash  two  pounds 
of  lentils  well  in  cold  water,  put  them  over  the  fire, 
in  four  quarts  of  cold  water  with  one  ounce  of  drip- 
pings, one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  a  saltspoon- 
ful of  pepper,  and  boil   slowly  until  tender,  that  is 


CHEAP  DISHES    WITHOUT  MEAT.         105 

about  three  hours;  drain  off  the  little  water  which 
remains,  add  to  the  lentils  one  ounce  of  butter,  a 
tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,  and  a  little  more  salt  and  pepper  if  required, 
and  serve  them  hot.  Always  save  the  water  in  which  ■ 
they  are  boiled ;  with  the  addition  of  a  little  thicken- 
ing and  seasoning,  it  makes  a  very  nourishing  soup. 

184.  Stewed  Lentils. — Put  plain  boiled  len- 
tils into  a  sauce-pan,  cover  them  with  any  kind  of 
pot-liquor,  add  one  ounce  of  chopped  onion,  two 
ounces  of  butter,  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  chopped 
parsley,  and  stew  gently  for  twenty  minutes ;  serve 
hot. 

185.  Fried  Lentils. — Fry  one  ounce  of  chop- 
ped onion  brown  in  two  ounces  of  drippings,  add 
plain  boiled  lentils,  see  if  they  are  properly  sea- 
soned, and  brown  them  well ;  serve  hot. 

186.  Norfolk  Dumplings. — Mix  well  together 
two  pounds  of  flour,  one  dessertspoonful  of  salt,  and 
two  pints  of  milk  ;  divide  the  dough  in  twelve  equal 
parts,  and  drop  them  into  a  pot  of  boiling  pot-liquor, 
or  boiling  water;  boil  them  steadily  half  an  hour. 
They  should  be  eaten  hot,  with  gravy,  sweet  drippings, 
or  a  little  molasses. 

187.  Salt  Ood  with  Parsnips. — Soak  three 
pounds  of  salt  fish  over  night,  with  the  skin  uppermost, 
and  boil  it  about  one  hour,  putting  it  into  plenty  of 
cold  water.  Meantime  pare  half  a  dozen  parsnips, 
and  cut  them  in  quarters,  boil  them  half  an  hour,  or 
longer,  until  tender,  drain  them,  and  dish  them 
around  the  fish.     While    the  fish  and  parsnips  are 


I06  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

cooking  make  the  following  sauce  :  mix  two  ounces 
of  flour  and  one  ounce  of  butter  or  sweet  drippings, 
over  the  fire  until  a  smooth  paste  is  formed ;  then 
pour  in  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water  gradually,  stirring 
until  the  sauce  is  smooth^  add  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  vinegar,  season  with  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and 
half  that  quantity  of  pepper ;  let  the  sauce  boil  up 
thoroughly  for  about  three  minutes,  and  serve  it  with 
the  fish  and  parsnips.  A  hard  boiled  egg  chopped 
and  added  to  the  sauce  improves  it. 

1 88.  Pickled  Mackerel.— When  fresh  mackerel 
or  herrings  can  be  bought  cheap,  clean  enough  to  fill 
a  two  quart  deep'  jar,  pack  them  in  it  in  layers  with 
a  seasoning  of  a  tablespoon ful  of  salt,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  powdered  herbs  a  saltspoonful  each  of  pepper 
and  allspice,  and  cover  with  vinegar  and  cold  water, 
in  equal  parts.  Bake  about  one  hour  in  a  moderate 
oven.     Serve  with  plain  boiled  potatoes. 

189.  Potato  Pudding. — Wash  and  peel  two 
quarts  of  potatoes ;  peel  and  slice  about  six  ounces  of 
onions ;  skin  and  bone  two  bloaters  or  large  herrings  ; 
put  all  these  ingredients  in  a  baking  dish  in  layers 
seasoning  them  with  a  dessertspoonful  of  salt  and  a 
saltspoonful  of  pepper;  pour  over  them  any  cold 
gravy  you  have  on  hand,  or  add  two  or  three  ounces 
of  drippings  ;  if  you  have  neither  of  these,  water  will 
answer;  bake  the  pudding  an  hour  and  a  half ;  serve 
hot,  with  bread. 


CHAPTER-  XI. 

CHEAP  DISHES  WITH  MEAT. 

Those  parts  of  meat  which  are  usually  called  in- 
ferior, and  sold  at  low  rates,  such  as  the  head,  tongue, 
brains,  pluck,  tripe,  feet,  and  tail,  can  be  cooked  so 
as  to  become  both  nourishing  and  delicate.  They 
are  more  generally  eaten  in  Europe  than  in  this 
country,  and  they  are  really  worthy  of  careful  pre- 
paration ;  for  instance,  take  the  haslet  ragout^  the 
receipt  for  which  is  given  further  on  in  this  chapter. 
The  author  owes  this  receipt  to  the  fortunate  circum- 
stance of  one  day  procuring  a  calf's  liver  direct  from 
the  slaughter-house,  with  the  heart  and  lights  at- 
tached ;  the  liver  was  to  be  larded  and  cooked  as 
directed  in  receipt  No.  53,  at  a  cooking  lesson ;  the 
chef  said,  after  laying  aside  the  liver,  "  I  will  make 
for  myself  a  dish  of  what  the  ladies  would  not 
choose,"  and  at  the  direction  of  the  author  he  cooked 
it  before  the  class ;  the  ladies  tasted  and  approved. 
The  nutritive  value  and  flavor  of  the  dishes  specified 
in  this  chapter  are  less  than  those  of  prime  cuts  of 
meat,  but  properly  combined  with  vegetables  and 
cereals,  they  completely  take  the  place  of  those  more 
expensive  foods ;  they  should  be  thoroughly  cooked, 


Io8  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

and  well  masticated;  and  can  usually  be  digested 
with  greater  ease  than  the  more  solid  flesh. 

190.  Three  dishes  from  a  Neck  of  Mut- 
ton.—  Part  I. — Barley  Broth  with  Vege- 
tables.— Trim  a  neck  of  mutton  into  neat  cutlets, 
and  reserve  them  iox part  2  ;  put  the  bones  and  trim- 
mings into  three  quarts  of  cold  water,  boil  slowly, 
and  skim  thoroughly  :  add  six  ounces  of  barley  which 
has  been  soaked  in  cold  water  over  night,  a  bouquet 
of  sweet  herbs,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  and  simmer  for  two  hours  ;  strain 
out  one  quart  of  the  broth  for  part  3,  then  add  six 
ounces  of  carrots,  four  ounces  of  onions,  and  four 
ounces  of  yellow  turnips  cut  in  dice  about  half  an 
inch  square,  six  ounces  of  oatmeal  mixed  to  a  smooth 
batter  with  cold  water,  and  simmer  until  the  vege- 
tables are  tender,  which  will  be  about  half  an  hour  : 
taste  to  try  the  seasoning  and  serve  hot. — Part  II. 
Mutton  Stew. — Cut  half  a  quart  each  of  yellow 
turnips  and  potatoes  into  balls  as  large  as  marbles, 
saving  the  trimmings  to  put  into  soup,  and  for  mashed 
potatoes ;  peel  six  ounces  of  small  onions ;  put  all 
these  in  separate  vessels  to  boil  until  tender  enough  to 
pierce  with  a  fork;  meantime  put  the  cutlets  in  a  hot 
pan  containing  an  ounce  of  drippings,  and  fry  them 
brown  quickly ;  stir  among  them  one  ounce  of  dry 
flour;  brown  it,  add  one  quart  of  boiling  water;  sea- 
son with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
saltspoonful  of  pepper;  drain  the  vegetables,  put 
them  with  the  meat  and  gravy,  and  serve  hot. — Part 
III.  —  Fried   Pudding.  —  To   the   quart   of  broth 


CHEAP  DISHES    WITH  ME  A  T.  1 09 

Strained  off  as  directed  in  Part  /,  and  brought  to  the 
boiling  point,  gradually  add  sufficient  Indian  meal 
to  thicken  it,  about  half  a  pound  will  generally  be 
enough  ;  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  boil 
it  for  twenty  minutes,  stirring  it  occasionally  to 
prevent  burning;  pour  it  out  into  a  deep  earthen 
dish,  and  let  it  stand  long  enough  to  grow  solid  ;  then 
cut  it  in  slices,  and  fry  it  brown  in  drippings ;  it  can 
be  eaten  with  molasses  for  dessert.  With  proper 
management  all  these  dishes  can  be  ready  at  one 
time,  and  will  form  a  good  and  wholesome  dinner. 

191.  Neck  of  Pork  stuffed. — Clean  a  neck  of 
fresh  pork,  fill  it  with  sage  and  onion  stuffing,  made 
according  to  receipt  No. — ;  put  it  in  a  dripping  pan, 
with  some  small  potatoes,  peeled  and  washed  well  in 
cold  water,  roast  it  brown,  seasoning  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper, 
when  it  is  half  done ;  when  it  is  thoroughly  cooked 
serve  it  with  the  potatoes  laid  around  it,  and  a  gravy 
made  from  the  drippings  in  the  pan  cleared  of  fat,  and 
thickened  with  a  teaspoonful  of  flour. 

192.  Pigs'  Feet  Fried. — Thoroughly  bum  all 
the  hairs  off  with  a  poker  heated  to  a  white  heat ; 
then  scald  the  feet,  wipe  them  dry,  and  put  them 
over  the  fire  to  boil  in  cold  water,  with  two  ounces 
each  of  carrot  and  onion,  the  latter  stuck  with  six 
cloves,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  parsley  made  into  a  bouquet  with  three  bay  leaves 
and  a  sprig  of  thyme ;  boil  them  slowly  four  hours, 
or  more,  until  you  can  easily  remove  the  bones. 
Split  the  feet  in  two  pieces,  and  take  out  all  the  large 


no  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

bones  ;  have  ready  some  sifted  crumbs  of  cracker,  or 
dry  bread,  a  little  milk,  or  an  egg  beaten  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  water ;  dry  the  pieces  on  a  clean  towel, 
roll  them  first  in  the  crumbs,  then  dip  them  in  the 
milk  or  egg,  and  roll  them  again  in  the  crumbs  ;  fry 
them  in  smoking  hot  lard,  which  you  must  after- 
wards strain  and  save  to  use  again,  and  lay  them 
neatly  on  a  hot  dish ;  they  will  make  an  appetizing 
and  nourishing  meal. 

193.  Pigs' Tongue  and  Brains. — Soak  them 
in  cold  water  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt  for  two 
hours ;  then  put  them  into  cold  water  over  the  fire, 
with  two  ounces  each  of  carrot  and  onion,  the  lattei 
stuck  with  three  cloves,  a  bouquet  of  sweet  herbs, 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  and  boil  slowly  fifteen 
minutes ;  take  out  the  brains  leaving  the  tongue  still 
boiling,  and  put  them  in  cold  water  to  cool ;  then 
carefully  remove  the  thin  membrane  or  skin  cover- 
ing the  brains,  without  breaking  them  ;  season  them 
with  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  quarter  of  a  saltspoon- 
ful  of  pepper,  roll  them  in  cracker  crumbs,  and  fry 
them  brown  in  smoking  hot  fat.  By  this  time  the 
tongue  will  be  tender ;  take  it  up,  lay  it  on  a  dish 
between  the  brains,  put  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  celery, 
mint  or  watercresses,  around  them  and  serve  them 
hot.  This  inexpensive  dish  is  very  delicate  and 
nutritious. 

194.  Roasted  Tripe. — Cut  some  tripe  in 
pieces  three  inches  long  by  six  wide ;  cover  each 
one  with  highly  seasoned  sausage-meat,  roll  up,  and 
tie  with  a  string;  lay  the  rolls  in  a  dripping  pan, 


CHEAP  DISHES    WITH  MEAT.  Ill 

dredge  them  well  with  flour,  and  set  them  in  the 
oven  to  bake,  basting  them  with  the  liquor  which 
flows  from  them ;  when  they  are  nicely  browned, 
dish  them  up  with  a  slice  of  lemon  on  each  one. 
Some  melted  butter  may  be  put  over  them  if  desired. 

195.  Ragout  of  Haslet. — Wash  the  lights, 
cut  them  in  two  inch  pieces,  put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  one  ounce  each  of  butter,  salt  pork  sliced, 
onion  chopped,  one  dessertspoonful  of  salt,  and  half 
a  saltspoonful  of  black  pepper ;  two  bay  leaves,  two 
sprigs  of  parsley  and  one  of  thyme,  tied  in  a  bouquet, 
one  ounce  of  flour,  one  gill  of  vinegar,  half  a  pint  of 
cold  gravy  or  cold  water,  and  six  potatoes  peeled 
and  cut  in  dice  ;  stew  all  these  ingredients  gently 
together  for  two  hours,  and  serve  as  you  would  a 
stew,  with  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley 
sprinkled  over  the  top. 

196.  Cock-a-leeky. — Pluck,  singe,  and  draw 

a  cheap  fowl,  as  directed  in  receipt  No,  ;  break 

the  breast  bone  down  with  a  rolling-pin,  tie  the  fowl 
in  a  plump  shape,  put  it  into  a  sauce-pan  with  four 
quarts  of  cold  water,  one  pound  of  rice,  first  washed 
in  cold  water,  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  half  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  bunch  of  leeks  weighing 
about  a  pound,  cut  in  two-inch  pieces.  Boil  all 
gently  for  three  hours,  stirring  occasionally  to  pre- 
vent the  rice  burning ;  serve  the  fowl  on  one  dish 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  parsley  chopped  and  sprinkled 
over  it,  and  the  rice  and  broth  in  a  soup  tureen  or 
deep  dish. 

197.  ItaliaxL  Cheese. — Chop  a  pig's  pluck, 


112  THE    COOKING  MANUAL. 

and  two  pounds  of  scraps  or  trimmings  of  fresh 
pork,  season  this  forcemeat  to  taste  with  the  spice 
salt  of  mixed  spices  and  sweet  herbs  named  in 
Chapter  first ;  put  it  into  an  earthen  jar  with  a  lid, 
seal  the  lid  with  a  paste  made  of  flour  and  water, 
and  oiled  upon  the  surface  to  prevent  cracking;  put 
the  jar  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  the  cheese 
three  hours,  slowly.  This  dish  is  eaten  cold  with 
bread,  in  place  of  butter,  and  makes  a  hearty 
meal. 

198.  Gammon  Dumpling. — Make  a  plain 
paste  of  two  pounds  of  flour,  one  dessertspoonful  of 
salt,  half  a  pound  of  finely  chopped  suet  or  scraps, 
and  sufficient  cold  water  to  mix  it  to  a  stiff"  dough ; 
roll  this  out  about  half  an  inch  thick,  spread  over  it 
about  two  pounds  of  any  cheap  cut  of  bacon  or  ham, 
finely  chopped,  roll  up  the  dumpling  as  you  would  a 
roly-poly  pudding,  tie  it  tightly  in  a  clean  cloth,  and 
boil  it  in  boiling  water,  or  boiling  pot-liquor,  for 
about  three  hours.  Serve  it  hot,  with  plain  boiled 
potatoes. 

199.  Toad-in-the-Hole. — Cut  two  pounds  of 
the  cheapest  parts  of  any  good  meat  into  small 
pieces,  roll  them  in  flour,  pepper,  and  salt,  and  fry 
them  brown  in  two  ounces  of  drippings ;  meantime 
prepare  a  batter  as  follows  ;  mix  one  pound  of  flour, 
one  heaping  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  nutmeg 
grated,  and  two  eggs,  stirred  in  without  beating; 
gradually  add  three  pints  of  skim-milk,  making  a 
smooth  batter ;  add  the  meat  and  its  gravy  to  this 
batter,  put  it  in  a  greased  baking  dish,  and  bake  it 


CHEAP  DISHES    WITH  MEAT.  I13 

slowly  about  two  hours.     Serve  it  with  plain  boiled 
potatoes. 

200.  Bacon  Roly-Poly. — Boil  a  pound  and  a 
half  of  bacon  for  half  an  hour ;  then  slice  it  thin ; 
peel  and  slice  six  apples  and  the  same  number  of 
onions;  make  a  stiff  dough  of  two  pounds  of  flour,  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  cold  water ;  roll  it  out  half 
an  inch  thick ;  lay  the  bacon,  apples,  and  onion  ail 
over  it,  roll  it  up,  tie  it  tightly  in  a  clean  cloth,  and 
boil  it  about  two  hours,  in  plenty  of  boiling  water. 
Serve  it  with  boiled  potatoes,  or  boiled  cabbage. 

201.  Baked  Ox-heart. — Clean  the  heart  thor- 
oughly ;  stuff  it  with  the  following  forcemeat ;  one 
ounce  of  onion  chopped  fine,  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  a  saltspoonful  of  powdered  sage  or 
thyme,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  small  loaf  of  bread, 
and  enough  warm  water  to  moisten  the  bread ;  mix, 
stuff  the  heart  with  it,  and  bake  it  an  hour  in  a  good 
hot  oven,  basting  it  occasionally  with  the  liquor  that 
flows  from  it,  and  when  half  done  seasoning  it  well 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve  hot  with  plain  boiled 
potatoes,  or  with  potatoes  peeled,  and  baked  in  the 
pan  with  the  heart. 

202.  Tripe  and  Onions. — Cut  two  pounds  of 
tripe  in  pieces  two  inches  square ;  peel  and  slice  six 
large  onions  and  ten  potatoes ;  slice  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  salt  pork  or  bacon  ;  put  the  bacon  in  the 
bottom  of  a  pot,  with  the  tripe  and  vegetables  in 
layers  on  it,  seasoning  with  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  a 
saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  the  same  of  powdered 
herbs ;  mix  a  pound  of  flour  gradually  with  a  quart 


114  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

and  a  half  of  cold  water,  pour  it  over  the  tripe  and 
vegetables,  and  boil  it  gently  for  two  hours.  Serve 
hot  with  bread. 

203.  Peas  and  Bacon. — Cut  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  fat  bacon  in  small  bits,  and  fry  it  brown 
with  two  ounces  of  onions  sliced  ;  then  add  four 
ounces  of  split  peas,  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one 
saltspoonful  of  pepper,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and 
four  quarts  of  cold  water ;  boil  it  until  the  peas  are 
reduced  to  a  pulp,  which  will  be  about  three  hours  ; 
then  stir  in  sufficient  oatmeal  to  thicken  it,  and  boil 
slowly  twenty  minutes,  stirring  it  occasionally ; 
serve  hot ;  or  when  cold,  slice  and  fry  it  brown. 

204.  Pot-au-feu. — Put  into  four  quarts  of  cold 
water  one  pound  of  cheap  lean  meat,  and  one  pound 
of  liver  whole,  some  bones,  cut  into  bits,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  four 
leeks  cut  in  pieces,  and  the  following  vegetables 
whole ;  four  carrots,  four  turnips,  and  four  onions, 
each  stuck  with  two  cloves ;  boil  all  gently  for  three 
hours,  skimming  occasionally,  and  adding  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cold  water  about  every  half  hour ;  take 
up  the  meat  and  the  liver  on  a  platter,  arrange  the 
vegetables  neatly  around  them,  and  serve  the  broth 
in  a  tureen,  with  plenty  of  bread. 

205.  Ragout  of  Mutton. — Cut  four  pounds 
of  the  scrag  end  of  mutton  in  small  pieces ;  peel  a 
quart  of  turnips  and  cut  them  in  round  pieces  as 
large  as  a  walnut,  ahd  fry  them  brown  in  four  ounces 
of  fat ;  take  them  up,  mix  into  the  fat  four  ounces  of 
flour,  and  brown  it ;  add  the  mutton  and  sufficient 


CHEAP  DISHES    WITH  MEAT.  115 

cold  water  to  cover  the  meat,  and  stir  until  it  boils ; 
season  with  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoon- 
ful  of  pepper,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  an  ounce 
of  onion  if  the  flavor  is  liked ;  simmer  gently  until 
the  meat  is  tender,  about  two  hours ;  then  add  the 
turnips,  heat  them,  and  serve  hot. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

THE  CHILDREN'S  CHAPTER. 

Any  elaborate  discussion  of  the  relations  of  food 
to  the  needs  of  the  body  would  not  come  within  the 
scope  of  a  work  of  this  character ;  but  there  are  a 
few  facts  concerning  the  diet  of  children  to  which  we 
would  call  the  attention  of  those  mothers  who  wish 
their  little  brood  to  brighten  home  with  radiant  eyes, 
rosy  cheeks,  plump,  graceful  forms,  and  hearts  bub- 
bling over  with  the  vivacity  which  springs  from  per- 
fect health.  Let  them  discard  sago,  arrowroot,  and 
tapioca,  all  largely  composed  of  starch,  as  compara- 
tively useless  in  nourishing  the  growing  body,  which 
calls  for  the  most  complete  nutrients  ;  these  often  do 
very  well  in  illness,  where  no  great  degree  of  nourish- 
ment is  necessary,  and  where  simply  a  given  quantity 
of  bland,  innutritions  food  is  required  to  help  the 
system  do  without  stronger  aliment,  calculated  to 
irritate  overworked  and  sensitive  organs. 

Indigestible  articles,  such  as  fat  meat,  rich  pastry, 
hot  bread,  unripe  fruit  and  vegetables,  tea,  coffee, 
spices,  and  stimulants,  should  be  avoided  in  the  diet 
of  children.  Good  wheaten  bread,  farina,  ripe  fruit, 
fresh  vegetables,  meat-juices,  milk,  and  sugar,  should 
make  up  the  list  of  staples ;  when  meats  are  used  they 


THE   CHILDREN'S  CHAPTER.  117 

should  be  nutritious  and  digestible,  suclj  as  good 
mutton,  young  beef,  and  tender  poultry ;  bread  and 
milk  and  fruit,  for  breakfast ;  meat,  vegetables,  bread 
and  some  light  dessert,  for  dinner ;  bread  and  milk, 
or  their  equivalents,  for  supper ;  in  other  words,  plain 
food  and  plenty  of  it,  will  keep  mind  and  body  in  a 
sound  condition,  and  supply  all  the  requirements  of 
growth. 

Meats  should  be  carefully  cooked,  so  as  to  pre- 
serve all  their  natural  juices;  but  no  rich  sauces,  or 
made  gravies,  should  accompany  them  to  the  table ; 
a  few  ripe  vegetables  cooked  until  perfectly  tender, 
roasted  or  baked  potatoes,  seed-bearing  fruits,  gen- 
erally stewed,  and  plenty  of  light  bread  at  least  a  day 
old,  should  be  eaten  with  the  meat.  In  stewing  fruit 
only  enough  water  should  be  used  to  prevent  burning, 
and  plenty  of  sugar  should  be  employed  to  sweeten 
it;  all  fruit  is  less  apt  to  be  injurious  if  eaten  early  in 
the  day.  Eggs  should  be  plain  boiled,  and  rather 
soft.  Milk  should  be  boiled  when  there  is  any  undue 
action  of  the  bowels;  otherwise  it  should  be  used 
uncooked  with  plenty  of  bread. 

Hearty,  vigorous  children,  who  play  much  in  the 
open  air,  can  digest  more  meat  than  those  who  are 
confined  indoors ;  and  the  cravings  of  a  healthy  ap- 
petite should  always  be  appeased,  care  being  taken 
that  the  stomach  has  the  proper  intervals  of  rest. 
Regularity  of  meals  is  really  most  important  at  all 
ages ;  the  digestive  organs  must  have  time  to  assimi- 
late their  food  supply.  In  childhood  and  youth,  the 
period  of  growth,  the  needs  of  the  system  are  more 


Il8  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

pressing  than  at  any  other  time  of  life;  if  at  this 
time  children  are  fed  on  rich  and  stimulating  food, 
they  will  be  prone  to  fevers  ;  if  they  are  underfed 
they  suffer  both  mentally  and  physically  from  slow 
starvation;  equal  and  regular  nutrition  is  imperative 
to  the  well  being  of  the  little  ones,  if  we  would  have 
them  grow  up  capable  of  performing  in  the  fullest 
degree  the  highest  functions  of  life.  Therefore  give 
the  children  plenty  of  plain,  wholesome  food  ;  their 
active  systems  will  appropriate  it.  If  they  continue 
serene  in  temper,  equable  in  disposition,  and  gen- 
erally healthy, — if  the  eyes  are  bright,  the  skin  clear, 
the  sleep  serene, — the  diet  is  proper  and  sufficient. 

In  the  following  receipts  for  preparing  children's 
food  the  quantities  are  calculated  for  four. 

206.  Oatmeal  Porridge. — Oatmeal  is  an  ex- 
tremely strengthening  food  ;  when  it  is  well  cooked 
it  produces  a  large  volume  of  nutritive  matter  in  pro- 
portion to  its  bulk;  and  combined  with  milk  it  is  the 
strongest  and  best  of  the  cereals.  Its  flavor  is  sweet 
and  pleasant ;  it  appears  in  market  in  two  forms,  a 
rather  rough  meal,  and  the  unbroken  grain,  after  the 
husk  has  been  removed  ;  in  either  shape  it  should  be 
thoroughly  boiled,  and  combined  with  milk.  A  good 
thick  porridge  can  be  made  by  stirring  four  ounces 
of  oatmeal  into  a  quart  of  boiling  milk,  and  then 
pouring  this  into  a  quart  of  water  boiling  on  the  fire, 
and  allowing  it  to  boil  half  or  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  ;  care  must  be  taken  not  to  burn  it;  just  before 
it  is  done  it  should  be  seasoned  with  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt ;  and  sweetened  to  taste  at  the  table. 


THE    CHILDREN'S   CHAPTER.  119 

207.  A  good  Breakfast  can  be  made  of  fresh 
milk  sweetened  with  a  little  sugar  and  eaten  with 
bread  a  day  old,  lightly  buttered. 

208.  Stevred  Fruit, — Put  a  quart  of  apples 
pared  and  sliced  over  the  fire  in  a  thick  sauce-pan, 
with  half  a  pint  of  water,  to  prevent  burning,  and 
when  tender  break  them  well  up  and  sweeten  them 
with  four  ounces  or  more  of  sugar,  according  to  the 
flavor  of  the  apples.  Serve  them  with  bread  and 
butter  in  the  morning,  or  at  noon. 

209.  Ripe  Currants. — A  pound  of  ripe  cur- 
rants mashed,  and  mixed  with  half  a  pound,  or  more, 
of  sugar,  makes  an  excellent  accompaniment  for 
bread,  being  served  spread  upon  the  slices. 

210.  Blackberry  Jam. — This  is  an  invaluable 
addition  to  the  breakfast,  or  noon  dinner,  in  place 
of  butter.  It  is  an  excellent  agent  for  regulating 
the  action  of  the  bowels.  It  is  made  by  boiling  with 
every  pound  of  thoroughly  ripe  blackberries  half  a 
pound  of  good  brown  sugar ;  the  boiling  to  be  con- 
tinued one  hour,  and  the  berries  well  broken  up. 

211.  Baked  Fruit.  —  In  addition  to  baking 
apples  in  the  ordinary  way,  plums,  peaches,  pears, 
and  berries,  are  good  when  put  into  a  stone  jar  with 
layers  of  stale  bread  and  sugar,  and  about  a  gill  of 
water,  and  baking  the  fruit  slowly  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 

212.  Broiled  Chops. — Trim  nearly  all  the  fat 
from  a  pound  of  loin  mutton  chops,  broil  them  over 
a  clear,  bright  fire  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  taking 
care  not  to  burn  them ;  when  they  are   done   put 


I20  THE    COOKING  MANUAL. 

them  on  a  hot  platter,  season  them  with  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  if  they  are  very  dry  put  a  little 
butter  over  them,  using  not  more  than  a  quarter  of 
an  ounce.     Serve  them  with  mashed  potatoes. 

213.  Beefsteak. — A  tender  sirloin  steak  is  the 
best  cut  for  general  use.  It  should  be  chosen  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  directions  given  in  the  chapter  on 
marketing,  and  broiled  over  a  brisk,  clear  fire  for 
about  twenty  minutes  ;  the  seasoning  of  salt  should 
be  added  after  it  is  taken  from  the  fire,  and  placed 
on  a  hot  dish ;  and  but  very  little  butter,  if  any, 
should  be  used.  Serve  it  with  baked  potatoes,  finely 
broken  with  a  fork. 

214.  Broiled  Chicken. — A  tender,  but  not 
very  fat  chicken,  makes  an  excellent  dinner  for  chil- 
dren. It  should  be  plucked,  singed,  split  down  the 
back,  carefully  drawn,  and  wiped  with  a  damp  cloth, 
but  not  washed ;  the  joints  and  breast-bone  should 
be  broken  with  the  rolling  pin,  the  chicken  being 
covered  with  a  folded  towel  to  protect  the  flesh ;  it 
should  then  be  broiled,  inside  first,  over  a  clear,  brisk 
fire,  or  better  still,  laid  in  a  pan  on  a  couple  of  slices 
of  bread,  and  quickly  roasted  in  a  hot  oven ;  by  the 
latter  process  all  the  juices  of  the  bird  are  saved ; 
some  gravy  will  flow  from  a  good  chicken,  and  from 
this  the  superfluous  fat  should  be  removed  ;  if  the 
chicken  is  very  fat  the  bread  under  it  should  not  be 
given  to  the  children. 

215.  Boiled  Eggs. — Eggs  are  usually  spoiled 
in  cooking ;  if  they  are  plunged  into  boiling  water, 
and  maintained  at  the  boiling  point,  the  eflect  is  to 


THE   CHILDREN'S   CHAPTER.  121 

harden  the  albumen  while  the  yolk  remains  almost 
raw,  and  make  them  totally  unfit  for  digestion.  A 
good  way  to  cook  them  is  to  place  them  over  the  fire 
in  cold  water,  bring  them  slowly  to  a  boil,  and  then 
at  once  set  the  vessel  containing  them  back  fi'om 
the  fire,  and  let  the  eggs  stand  in  the  water  about 
one  minute  if  they  are  to  be  soft,  and  two  minutes, 
or  longer,  if  they  are  to  be  hard.  Poor  eggs  cooked 
in  this  way  are  superior  in  flavor  and  digestibility  to 
new-laid  eggs  boiled  rapidly.  One  minute  is  quite 
long  enough  to  boil  them  if  they  are  wanted  in  their 
best  condition. 

216.  Baked  Potatoes. — Potatoes  for  baking 
should  be  of  equal  and  medium  size,  with  smooth 
skins;  they  should  be  well  washed  with  a  brush  or 
cloth,  and  put  into  a  quick  oven  ;  they  will  bake  in 
from  twenty  to  thirty-five  minutes,  according  to 
variety  and  ripeness  ;  as  soon  as  you  find  they  yield 
readily  when  pressed  between  the  fingers,  they  are 
done ;  and  should  be  served  at  once,  uncovered.  If 
they  stand  they  grow  heavy,  and  if  you  put  them  in  a 
covered  dish  you  will  make  them  watery. 

217.  Boiled  Potatoes.— Potatoes  for  children's 
use  should  be  very  carefully  boiled ;  and  if  not  used 
as  soon  as  they  are  done,  should  be  kept  hot  and  dry, 
by  pouring  off  the  water,  covering  them  with  a  dry 
cloth,  and  setting  them  on  the  back  of  the  stove. 
After  washing  them  thoroughly,  pare  them  entirely, 
or  take  off  one  ring  around  each  ;  if  they  are  new, 
put  them  over  the  fire  in  hot  water;  if  they  are  old, 
put  them  on  in  cold  water;  in  either  case,  add  a 


122  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  them  from  fifteen  to 
thirty  minutes,  as  they  require,  until  you  can  pierce 
them  easily  with  a  fork ;  then  drain  off  all  the  water, 
cover  them  with  a  clean  dry  towel,  and  set  them 
on  the  back  of  the  fire  until  you  are  ready  to  use 
them. 

/  218.  Apple  Cake. — Grate  a  small  loaf  of  stale 
/bread;  pare  and  slice  about  a  quart  of  apples;  lightly 
'  butter  a  pudding  mould,  dust  it  well  with  flour,  and 
then  with  sugar,  and  fill  it  with  layers  of  bread 
crumbs,  apples,  and  sugar,  using  a  very  little  cinna- 
mon to  flavor  it ;  let  the  top  layer  be  of  crumbs,  and 
put  a  few  bits  of  butter  on  it ;  bake  the  cake  for  one 
hour  in  a  moderate  oven ;  and  serve  it  for  dessert. 

219.  Fruit  Farina. — Sprinkle  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  farina  into  one  quart  of  boiling  milk,  using  a 
sauce-pan  set  into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  in  order 
to  prevent  burning  ;  flavor  and  sweeten  to  taste,  and 
boil  for  half  an  hour,  stirring  occasionally  ;  then  add 
one  pint  of  any  ripe  berries,  or  sliced  apples,  and 
boil  until  the  fruit  is  cooked,  about  twenty  minutes  : 
the  pudding  may  be  boiled  in  a  mould  or  a  cloth 
after  the  fruit  is  added.  It  should  be  served  with 
powdered  sugar. 

220.  Plain  Cookies. — Beat  one  egg  with  one 
cup  of  sugar  to  a  cream,  work  two  ounces  of  butter 
soft,  and  beat  it  with  the  egg  and  sugar,  grate  in  quar- 
ter of  a  nutmeg,  add  one  gill  of  milk,  and  prepared 
flour  enough  to  make  a  sufficiently  stiff  paste  to  roll 
out  about  a  pound.  Roll  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick, 
cut  out  with  a  biscuit  cutter,  or  an  inverted  cup,  and 


THE   CHILDREN'S   CHAPTER.  123 

lay  on  a  floured  baking  pan,  and  bake  about  twenty 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven 

221.  Plain  Gingerbread. — Partly  melt  one 
ounce  of  butter,  stir  it  into  half  a  pint  of  molasses, 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  ground  ginger,  and  half  a 
pint  of  boiling  water,  stir  in  smoothly  half  a  pound 
of  prepared  flour,  and  pour  the  batter  into  a  buttered 
baking  pan ;  bake  it  about  half  an  hour  in  a  quick 
oven,  trying  it  with  a  broom  straw,  at  the  end  of 
twenty  minutes ;  as  soon  as  the  straw  passes  through 
it  without  sticking,  the  cake  is  done. 

222.  Strawberry  Short-cake. — Rub  two 
ounces  of  butter  into  a  pound  of  prepared  flour,  mix 
it  stiff  enough  to  mould  with  about  half  a  pint  of 
milk ;  put  the  dough  upon  a  round  tin  plate,  gently 
flattening  with  the  roller ;  bake  it  about  twenty  min- 
utes in  a  quick  oven,  trying  it  with  a  broom  straw  to 
be  sure  it  is  done,  before  taking  it  from  the  oven  ; 
let  it  cool  a  little,  tear  it  open  by  first  separating  the 
edges  all  around  with  a  fork,  and  then  pulling  it  in 
two  pieces ;  upon  the  bottom  put  a  thick  layer  of 
strawberries,  or  any  perfectly  ripe  fruit,  plentifully 
sprinkled  with  sugar  ;  then  lay  on  the  fruit  the  upper 
half  of  the  short-cake,  with  the  crust  down ;  add  an- 
other layer  of  fruit,  with  plenty  of  sugar,  and  serve 
it  with  sweet  milk  or  cream.  This  is  rather  rich, 
but  a  small  piece  may  be  given  to  the  children  as  a 
treat,  at  the  noon  dinner. 

223.  Apple  Custard. — Pare  and  core  six 
apples;  set  them  in  a  pari  with  a  very  little  water, 
and  stew  them  until  tender;  then  put  them   in  a 


124  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

pudding  dish  without  breaking,  fill  the  centres  with 
sugar,  and  pour  over  them  a  custard  made  of  a  quart 
of  milk,  five  eggs,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  and  a  very- 
little  nutmeg ;  set  the  pudding-dish  in  a  baking-pan 
half  full  of  water,  and  bake  it  about  half  an  hour. 
Serve  it  either  hot  or  cold,  at  the  noon  dinner. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 
COOKERY  FOR  INVALIDS. 

224.  Diet  for  Invalids. — There  are  three  ali- 
mentary conditions  in  illness  ;  the  first  prevails  where 
the  system  suffers  from  the  reaction  consequent  upon 
over-taxation,  when  rest  is  the  first  demand  ;  then  only 
palliative  foods  meet  the  calls  of  nature,  those  which 
give  repletion  to  the  sense  of  hunger,  and  tide  the  sys- 
tem over  a  certain  period  of  relaxation  and  recupe- 
ration ;  gelatinous  soups,  and  gruels  of  arrowroot, 
sago,  and  tapioc?,,  will  do  very  well  at  this  stage.  The 
second  condition,  when  the  body,  failing  under  the 
pressure  of  disease,  needs  an  excess  of  nutrition,  is 
serious  enough  to  demand  the  interposition  of  the 
physician — the  doctor  is  the  proper  person  to  decide 
what  shall  be  eaten  ;  we  will  offer  only  a  few  sugges- 
tions concerning  refreshing  drinks.  At  the  third  point, 
when  the  patient  is  beyond  the  reach  of  danger,  when 
foods  are  ordered  which  shall  yield  the  greatest  pos- 
sible amount  of  nutrition,  the  culinary  skill  of  the  nurse 
may  be  displayed.  It  is  here  that  we  would  give  the 
paragraphs  concerning  highly  nutritive  foods.  The 
reader  will  please  to  note  that  the  quantities  in  this 
chapter  are  calculated  for  the  use  of  one  person. 

225.  Gruels. — We  have  already  said  that  in  cer- 


126  THE    COOKING  MANUAL. 

tain  physical  conditions  the  lack  of  nutrition  is  what 
the  body  requires, — a  period  of  comparative  inaction, 
combined  with  repletion  ; — in  such  a  condition  the 
following  aliments  will  suffice. 

226.  Arrowroot  Gruel. — Mix  one  ounce  of 
arrowroot  with  sufficient  cold  water  to  make  a 
smooth  paste  ;  into  this  pour  a  gill  or  more  of  boiling 
water,  stirring  the  mixture  until  it  is  quite  clear ; 
sweeten  it  with  a  little  sugar,  and  use  it  at  once. 

227.  Arrowroot  Jelly. — Dissolve  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  Bermuda  arrowroot  in  just  enough  cold 
water  to  mix  it  to  a  smooth  liquid  paste,  stir  it  into  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  water  boiling  upon  the  fire,  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sugar;  continue  stirring 
until  the  mixture  becomes  clear,  then  remove  from  the 
fire  and  stir  in  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  put 
into  a  mould  wet  with  cold  water  until  it  is  cold.  If 
the  patient's  condition  will  permit,  cream  and  sugar 
may  be  eaten  with  it. 

228.  Arrowroot  Wine  Jelly. — Following  the 
above  process,  make  a  jelly  of  one  cup  of  boiling 
w^ater,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  arrowroot,  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  white  sugar,  one  tablespoonful  of  brandy  or  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  wine.  This  jelly  is  more  stimulating 
than  the  gruel,  and  may  meet  some  especial  cases  ; 
but,  unless  used  with  brandy,  for  impaired  digestive 
powers,  we  do  not  believe  it  to  be  of  permanent  value. 

229.  Calf's  Foot  Jelly. — Thoroughly  clean  a 
calf  s  foot  ;  put  it  into  an  earthen  jar,  with  half  the 
rind  of  a  fresh  lemon,  two  gills  of  sweet  milk,  and  one 
pint  of  cold  water  j  close  the  jar  tightly,  put  it  into  a 


COOKERY  FOR  INVALIDS.  127 


moderate  oven,  and  slowly  bake  it  for  three  hours ; 
then  strain  and  cool  it,  and  remove  all  fat,  before 
using  ;  it  is  bland  and  harmless. 

230.  Sago  Gruel. — Soak  one  ounce  of  sago, 
after  washing  it  well  in  a  pint  of  tepid  water  for  two 
hours  ;  then  simmer  it  in  the  same  water  for  fifteen 
minutes,  stirring  it  occasionally ;  then  sweeten  and 
flavor  it  to  taste,  and  use  at  once. 

231.  Sago  Milk. — Prepare  the  sago  as  in  pre- 
vious receipt,  but  boil  it  in  milk  instead  of  water;  and 
when  it  has  cooked  for  two  hours  it  is  ready  for  use. 

232.  Tapioca  Jelly. — Wash  one  ounce  of  tapi- 
oca, soak  it  over  night  in  cold  water,  and  then  sim- 
mer it  with  a  bit  of  lemon  peel  until  it  is  thoroughly 
dissolved ;  sweeten  it  to  taste,  and  let  it  cool  before 
using. 

233.  Rice  Candle. — Mix  an  ounce  of  ground 
rice  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  water,  and  stir  it  into 
a  pint  of  boiling  water  j  boil  it  for  fifteen  minutes,  and 
then  sweeten  it  to  taste  and  flavor  it  with  nutmeg.  Use 
it  warm  or  cold. 

234.  Isinglass  Milk. — Soak  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  clear  shreds  of  isinglass  in  a  pint  of  cold  milk  for 
two  hours ;  then  reduce  it  by  boiling  to  half  a  pint, 
and  sweeten  to  taste.     Cool  it  before  using, 

235.  Refreshing  Drinks. — In  feverish  condi- 
tions cooling  drinks,  that  is  beverages  which  are  in 
themselves  refrigerant,  such  as  lemonade,  and  those 
which  are  made  from  aromatic  herbs,  are  grateful  and 
helpful  to  the  patient,  but  pure,  distilled  or  filtered 
water,  is  the  best  for  invalids.     Hot  drinks  lower  the 


128  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

temperature  of  the  body  by  evaporation ;  excessively 
cold  drinks  check  perspiration,  and  endanger  con- 
gestion of  some  vital  part ;  but  water  of  a  moderate 
temperature  is  innocuous.  Even  in  dangerous  fevers 
the  burning  thirst  of  the  sufferer  can  safely  be  as- 
suaged by  the  frequent  administration  of  small  bits  of 
ice.  In  cases  of  incomplete  nutrition,  cocoa,  choco- 
late, and  other  preparations  of  the  fruit  of  the  cocoa- 
palm,  are  invaluable  adjuncts  ;  the  active  principle  of 
all  these  is  identical,  and  the  chief  nutritive  element 
is  oil.  A  very  small  quantity  of  cocoa  will  sustain  life 
a  long  time. 

236.  Filtered  Water. — Put  a  quart  of  clear 
water  over  the  fire,  and  just  bring  it  to  a  boil ;  remove 
it,  and  strain  it  three  or  four  times  through  flannel ; 
then  cool  it  in  a  covered  jar  or  pitcher,  and  give  it  to 
the  patient  in  small  quantities  as  the  condition  re- 
quires. 

237.  Jelly  Water. — Mix  one  large  teaspoonful 
of  wild-cherry  or  blackberry  jelly  in  a  glass  of  cool 
water ;  drink  moderately,  and  at  intervals. 

238.  Flaxseed  Lemonade. — Pour  one  quart 
of  boiling  water  over  four  tablespoonfuls  of  whole 
flaxseed,  and  steep  three  hours  covered.  Then  sv/eeten 
to  taste,  and  add  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  using  a  lit- 
tle more  water  if  the  liquid  seems  too  thick  to  be  pal- 
atable. This  beverage  is  very  soothing  to  the  irritated 
membranes  in  cases  of  severe  cold. 

239.  Barley  Water. — Wash  two  ounces  of 
pearl  barley  in  cold  water  until  it  does  not  cloud  the 
water  ;  boil  it  for  five  minutes  in  half  a  pint  of  water  ; 


f  COOKERY  FOR  INVALIDS.  129 

drain  that  off,  put  the  barley  ir;to  two  quarts  of  clean 
water,  and  boil  it  down  to  one  quart.  Cool,  strain, 
and  use.  Pearl  barley  largely  contains  starch  and 
mucilage,  and  makes  an  excellent  soothing  and  refresh- 
ing draught  in  fevers  and  gastric  inflammations. 

Nourishing  Drinks. — These  are  useful  when 
liquid  nourishment  is  better  suited  to  the  invalid's 
condition  than  solid  food. 

240.  Iceland  Moss  Chocolate. —  Dissolve 
one  ounce  of  Iceland  moss  in  one  pint  of  boiling 
milk ;  boil  one  ounce  of  chocolate  for  five  minutes  in 
one  pint  of  boiling  water  ;  thoroughly  mix  the  two  \ 
and  give  it  to  the  invalid  night  and  morning.  This  is 
a  highly  nutritive  drink  for  convalescents. 

241.  Egg  Broth. — Beat  an  ^gg  until  it  is  frothy, 
stir  into  it  a  pint  of  boiling  hot  meat  broth,  free  from 
fat,  season  it  with  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  eat  it  hot, 
with  thin  slices  of  dry  toast ;  it  may  be  given  to  assist 
the  patient  in  gaining  strength. 

242.  Egg  Tea. — Beat  the  yolk  of  an  &gg  in  a  cup 
of  tea,  and  let  the  sick  person  drink  it  warm  ;  the 
yolk  is  more  readily  digested  than  the  white,  and  has 
a  better  flavor  \  and  the  tea  is  a  powerful  respiratory 
excitant,  while  it  promotes  perspiration,  and  aids  the 
assimilation  of  more  nourishing  foods. 

243.  Very  strong  Beef  Tea. — (This  tea  con- 
tains every  nutritious  element  of  the  beef.) — Cut  two 
pounds  of  lean  beef  into  small  dice,  put  it  into  a 
covered  jar  without  water,  and  place  it  in  a  moderate 

6* 


I30  THE    COOKING  MANUAL. 

oven  for  four  hours,  then  strain  off  the  gravy,  and 
dilute  it  to  the  desired  strength  with  boiling  water. 

244.  Beef  Tea. — (^  quick  preparation  for  im- 
mediate use.) — Chop  one  pound  of  lean  beef  fine,  put 
it  into  a  bowl,  and  cover  it  with  cold  water ;  let  it 
stand  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  and  then  pour  both 
beef  and  liquid  into  a  sauce-pan,  and  place  them  over 
the  fire  to  boil  from  fifteen  to  thirty  minutes  as  time 
will  permit  ;  then  strain  off"  the  liquid,  season  it  slightly, 
and  serve  it  at  once. 

245.  Farina  Gruel. — Stir  one  ounce  of  farina 
into  one  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  it  down  one 
half,  using  a  farina  kettle,  or  stirring  occasionally  to 
prevent  burning,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  milk,  boil  up 
once,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  Use  warm.  Farina  is  a 
preparation  of  the  inner  portion  of  the  finest  wheat, 
freed  from  bran,  and  floury  dust ;  it  contains  an  excess 
of  nitrogenous,  or  flesh-forming  material,  readily 
absorbs  milk  or  water  in  the  process  of  cooking,  is 
quickly  afi'ected  by  the  action  of  the  gastric  juices ; 
and  is  far  superior  as  a  food  to  sago^  arrowroot,  tap- 
ioca, and  corn  starch. 

246.  Nutritious  Foods. — We  have  called  at- 
tention to  the  fact  that  the  nurse's  most  important 
office  is  exercised  when  the  invalid  begins  to  regain 
health  ;  the  task  of  rebuilding  exhausted  vitality  de- 
mands a  thoughtful  care  that  only  a  tender  hearted 
woman  can  bestow;  and  lacking  which  the  skill  of 
the  most  enlightened  physician  is  often  set  at  naught. 
Happy  the  woman  who  can  here  assist  the  restoration 
of  the  vital  powers  ;  she  holds  in  her  own  hands  a 


COOKERY  FOR  INVALIDS.  13 1 

force  which  wealth  cannot  buy.  To  such  ministering 
angels  we  dedicate  this  portion  of  our  little  work,  in 
the  hope  that  countless  sick  beds  will  be  comforted 
thereby. 

247.  Bread  Jelly. — Remove  the  crust  from  a 
roll,  slice  the  crumb,  and  toast  it ;  put  the  slices  in 
one  quart  of  water,  and  set  it  over  the  fire  to  simmer 
until  it  jellies  ;  then  strain  it  through  a  cloth,  sweeten 
it,  and  flavor  it  with  lemon  juice  ;  put  it  into  a  mould 
and  cool  it  upon  the  ice  before  using. 

248.  Crackers  and  Marmalade. — Toast 
three  soda  crackers,  dip  them  for  one  minute  in  boil- 
ing water,  spread  them  with  a  little  sweet  butter,  and 
put  between  them  layers  of  orange  marmalade,  or 
any  other  preserve  or  jelly ;  put  plenty  upon  the  top 
cracker,  and  set  them  in  the  oven  for  two  or  three 
minutes  before  serving.  This  makes  a  delicate  and 
inviting  lunch  for  convalescents. 

249.  Chicken  Jelly. — Skin  a  chicken,  remov- 
ing all  fat,  and  break  up  the  meat  and  bones  by  pound- 
ing \  cover  them  with  cold  water,  heat  them  slowly  in 
a  steam-tight  kettle,  and  simmer  them  to  a  pulp  ;  then 
strain  through  a  sieve  or  cloth,  season  to 'taste,  and 
return  to  the  fire  without  the  cover,  to  simmer  until 
the  liquid  is  reduced  one  half,  skimming  off  all  fat. 
Cool  to  form  a  jelly.  If  you  have  no  steam-tight  ket- 
tle, put  a  cloth  between  the  lid  and  any  kettle,  and 
the  purpose  will  be  served. 

250.  Chicken  Broth. — Dress  a  chicken  or  fowl, 
cut  it  in  joints,  put  them  in  a  chopping  bowl,  and  chop 
them  into  small  pieces,  using  flesh,  bones,  and  skin. 


132  THE    COOKIXG  MANUAL. 

To  every  pound  of  the  chicken  thus  prepared  put  one 
pint  of  cold  water  and  one  level  teaspoonful  of  salt ; 
if  pepper  is  desired  it  should  be  either  enough  cay- 
enne to  lie  on  the  point  of  a  small  pen-knife  blade,  or 
a  half  saltspoonful  of  ground  white  pepper.  Put  all 
these  ingredients  over  the  fire  in  a  porcelain  lined 
sauce-pan,  bring  them  slowly  to  a  boil,  remove  the  pan 
to  the  side  of  the  fire,  where  it  will  simmer  slowly,  the 
heat  striking  it  on  one  side ;  simmer  it  in  this  way 
for  two  hours,  and  then  strain  it  through  a  napkin,  set 
it  to  cool ;  if  any  fat  rises  to  the  surface  in  cooling  re- 
move it  entirely.  Eat  it  either  cold,  say  half  a  tea- 
cupful  when  a  little  nourishment  is  required ;  or 
warm  a  pint,  and  eat  it  with  graham  crackers  at  meal 
time. 

.251.  Beefsteak  Juice. — Quickly  broil  a  juicy 
steak,  and  after  laying  it  on  a  hot  platter,  cut  and  press 
it  to  extract  all  the  juice  ;  season  this  with  a  very  lit- 
tle salt,  and  pour  it  over  a  slice  of  delicately  browned 
toast  j  serve  it  at  once. 

252.  Salmon  Steak. — Choose  a  slice  of  salmon 
nearly  an  inch  thick,  remove  the  scales,  wipe  with  a 
dry  cloth,  roll  it  first  in  cracker  dust,  then  dip  it  very 
lighdy  in  melted  butter,  and  season  with  a  dust  of 
white  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  salt;  then  roll  it  again  in 
cracker  dust,  and  put  it  over  a  clear  fire  on  a  greased 
gridiron,  to  broil  slowly,  taking  care  that  it  does  not 
burn  before  the  flakes  separate ;  serve  it  with  some 
fresh  watercresses  and  plain  boiled  potatoes.  (Any 
red-blooded  fish  may  be  used  in  the  same  way.) 

253. — Broiled  Oysters. — Dry  some  large  oys- 


COOKERY  FOR  IiVVALlDS.  133 

ters  on  a  napkin  ;  roll  them  in  cracker  dust,  dip  them 
in  melted  butter  as  for  salmon  steaks,  again  in  cracker 
dust,  dust  over  them  a  very  little  salt  and  white  pep- 
per, or  cayenne,  and  broil  them  on  a  buttered  wire 
gridiron,  over  a  clear  fire .  They  will  be  done  as  soon 
as  they  are  light  brown.  They  make  a  very  delicate 
and  digestible  meal. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
BREAD. 

The  preparation  of  wheat  and  other  grains,  in  the 
form  of  bread,  is  one  of  the  most  important  of  all  cu- 
linary operations,  and  to  many  persons  one  of  the  most 
difficult.  It  is  impossible  to  set  exact  rules  as  to  the 
quantity  of  flour  or  liquid  to  be  used,  for  the  quality 
of  the  flour  varies  as  much  as  that  of  the  grain  from 
which  it  is  made  j  and  some  varieties,  excessive  in 
gluten,  will  absorb  nearly  one-third  more  liquid  than 
others,  and  produce  correspondingly  more  bread. 
For  this  reason  in  buying  flour  we  must  choose  that 
which  contains  the  most  gluten  ;  this  kind  will  remain 
in  a  firm,  compact  mass  when  pressed  in  the  hand,  and 
will  retain  all  the  lines  and  marks  of  the  skin ;  or  if 
mixed  with  water  it  will  take  up  a  great  deal  in  pro- 
portion to  its  bulk,  and  will  form  a  tough,  elastic 
dough.  Gluten  in  flour  corresponds  with  the  nitrates*' 
or  flesh-formers  in  flesh,  and  abounds  in  hard  winter 
wheat.  The  flour  containing  much  of  it  is  never  ex- 
tremely white. 

The  object  of  making  bread,  that  is  of  mixing 
water  with  the  flour  and  subsequently  exposing  the 
dough  to  intense  heat,  is  to  expand  and  rupture  the 
cells  of  the  grain  so  as  to  expose  the  greatest  possible 


BREAD.  135 


surface  to  the  action  of  the  digestive  fluids ;  this  is 
acconiphshed  in  several  ways  ;  by  the  formation  of  air 
cells  through  the  medium  of  acetous  fermentation,  as 
in  yeast  bread  ;  by  the  mechanical  introduction  of 
carbonic  acid  gas,  as  in  aerated  bread  ;  by  the  mixture 
with  the  flour  of  a  gas-generating  compound,  which 
needs  only  the  contact  of  moisture  to  put  it  in  active 
operation  ;  and  by  the  beating  into  the  dough  of  at- 
mospheric air.  No  organic  change  in  the  elements 
of  the  flour  is  necessary,  like  that  produced  by  the 
partial  decomposition  of  some  of  its  properties,  in 
bread  raised  with  yeast ;  so  long  as  proper  surface  is 
obtained  for  the  action  of  the  gastric  juices,  the  pur- 
pose of  raising  is  accomplished.  Bread  raised  with- 
out fermentation  can  be  made  from  the  following 
receipt,  and  there  is  no  question  of  its  healthfulness. 

254.  Aerated  Homemade  Bread. — Mix 
flour  and  water  together  to  the  consistency  of  a  thick 
batter;  then  beat  it  until  fine  bubbles  of  air  thor- 
oughly permeate  it;  for  small  biscuit,  pour  it  into 
patty  pans,  and  bake  in  a  good  brisk  oven  \  for  bread 
in  loaves  more  flour  is  thoroughly  kneaded  in  with  the 
liands,  until  the  dough  is  full  of  air-bubbles,  and  then 
baked  at  once,  without  being  allowed  to  stand. 

When  bread  is  to  be  raised  by  the  acetous  fermenta- 
tion of  yeast,  the  sponge  should  be  maintained  at  a  tem- 
perature of  89^  Fahr.  until  it  is  sufficiently  light,  and 
the  baking  should  be  accomplished  at  a  heat  of  over 
320°.  When  yeast  is  too  bitter  from  the  excess  of 
hops,  mix  plenty  of  water  with  it,  and  let  it  stand  for 
some  hours  j  then  throw  the  water  off",  and  use  the 


136  THE    COOKING  MANUAL. 

settlings.  When  yeast  has  soured  it  may  be  restored 
by  adding  to  it  a  little  carbonate  of  soda  or  ammonia. 
When  dough  has  soured,  the  acidity  can  be  corrected 
by  the  use  of  a  little  carbonate  of  soda  or  ammonia. 
If  the  sponge  of  "  raised  bread  "  be  allowed  to  over- 
work itself  it  will  sour  from  excessive  fermentation, 
and  if  the  temperature  be  permitted  to  fall,  and  the 
dough  to  cool,  it  will  be  heavy.  Thorough  kneading 
renders  yeast-bread  white  and  line,  but  is  unneces- 
sary in  bread  made  with  baking-powder.  Great  care 
should  be  taken  in  the  preparation  of  yeast  for  leav- 
ened bread,  as  the  chemical  decomposition  insepara- 
ble from  its  use  is  largely  increased  by  any  impurity 
or  undue  fermentation.  Experience  and  judgment 
are  necessary  to  the  uniform  production  of  good 
bread  ;  and  those  are  gained  only  by  repeated  trials. 
We  subjoin  one  of  the  best  receipts  which  we  have 
been  able  to  procure,  for  making  yeast. 

255.  Home-brewed  Yeast. — Boil  two  ounces 
of  the  best  hops  in  four  quarts  of  water  for  half  an 
hour,  strain  off  the  liquor  and  let  it  cool  till  lukewarm, 
and  then  add  half  a  pound  of  brown  sugar  and  two 
heaping  tablespoonfuis  of  salt ;  use  a  little  of  this 
liquor  to  beat  up  one  pound  of  the  best  flour,  and 
gradually  mix  in  all  of  it  with  the  flour;  let  it  stand 
four  days  to  ferment  in  a  warm  place  near  the  fire, 
stirring  it  frequently.  On  the  third  day  boil  and 
mash  three  pounds  of  potatoes,  and  stir  them  into  it. 
On  the  fourth  day  strain  and  bottle  it ;  it  will  keep 
good  for  months. 

256.  Homemade  Bread. — Put  seven    pounds 


BREAD.  137 

of  flour  into  a  deep  pan,  and  make  a  hollow  in  the 
centre  ;  into  this  put  one  quart  of  lukewarm  water, 
one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar, 
and  half  a  gill  of  yeast ;  have  ready  three  pints  more 
of  warm  water,  and  use  as  much  of  it  as  is  necessary 
to  make  a  rather  soft  dough,  mixing  and  kneading  it 
well  with  both  hands.  When  it  is  smooth  and  shining 
strew  a  little  flour  upon  it,  lay  a  large  towel  over  it 
folded,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  by  the  fire  for  four 
or  five  hours  to  rise ;  then  knead  it  again  for  fifteen 
minutes,  cover  it  with  the  towel,  and  set  it  to  rise  once 
more  ;  then  divide  it  into  two  or  four  loaves,  and  bake 
it  in  a  quick  oven.  This  quantity  of  material  will 
make  eight  pounds  of  bread,  and  will  require  one  hour's 
baking  to  two  pounds  of  dough.  In  cold  weather,  the 
dough  should  be  mixed  in  a  warm  room,  and  not  al- 
lowed to  cool  while  rising ;  if  it  does  not  rise  well,  set 
the  pan  containing  it  over  a  large  vessel  of  boiling 
water ;  it  is  best  to  mix  the  bread  at  night,  and  let  it 
rise  till  morning,  in  a  warm  and  even  temperature. 

257.  Milk  Bread. — Take  one  quart  of  milk,  heat 
one-third  of  it,  and  scald  with  it  half  a  pint  of  flour  ; 
if  the  milk  is  skimmed,  use  a  small  piece  of  butter; 
when  the  batter  is  cool,  add  the  rest  of  the  milk,  one 
cup  of  hop  yeast,  half  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  flour 
enough  to  make  it  quite  stiff;  knead  the  dough  until 
it  is  fine  and  smooth,  and  raise  it  over  night.  This 
quantity  makes  three  small  loaves. 

258.  Rice  Bread. — Simmer  one  pound  of  rice  in 
three  quarts  of  water  until  the  rice  is  soft,  and  the 
water  evaporated  or  absorbed ;  let  it  cool  until  it  is 


138  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

only  luke-warm  ;  mix  into  it  nearly  four  pounds  of 
flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  yeast  j  knead  it  until  it  is  smooth  and  shining,  let 
it  rise  once  before  the  fire,  make  it  up  into  loaves  with, 
the  little  flour  reserved  from  the  four  pounds,  and 
bake  it  thoroughly. 

259.  Potato  Bread. — Take  good,  mealy  boiled 
potatoes,  in  the  proportion  of  one-third  of  the  quantity 
of  flour  you  propose  to  use,  pass  them  through  a  coarse 
sieve  into  the  flour,  using  a  wooden  spoon  and  adding 
enough  cold  water  to  enable  you  to  pass  them  through 
readily ;  use  the  proper  quantity  of  yeast,  salt,  and 
water,  and  make  up  the  bread  in  the  usual  way.  A 
saving  of  at  least  twenty  per  cent  is  thus  gained. 

260.  Pulled  Bread. — Take  from  the  oven  an 
ordinary  loaf  of  bread  when  it  is  about  half  baked ^  and 
with  the  fingers,  while  it  is  yet  hot ^  pull  it  apart  in  egg- 
sized  pieces  of  irregular  shape :  throw  them  upon  tins, 
and  bake  them  in  a  slow  oven  to  a  rich  brown  color. 
This  bread  is  excellent  to  eat  with  cheese  or  wine. 

Where  bread  is  made  with  baking  powder  the  fol- 
lowing rules  should  be  closely  observed  :  If  any  short- 
ening be  used,  it  should  be  rubbed  into  the  flour  before 
it  is  wet ;  cold  water  or  sweet  milk  should  always  be 
used  to  wet  it,  and  the  dough  should  be  kneaded  im- 
mediately, and  only  long  enough  to  thoroughly  mix  it 
and  form  it  into  the  desired  shape  ;  it  should  then  be 
placed  in  a  well-heated  oven  and  baked  quickly — other- 
wise the  carbonic  acid  gas  will  escape  before  the  ex- 
panded cells  are  fixed  in  the  bread,  and  thus  the  light- 
ness of  the  loaf  will  be  impaired. 


BREAD.  139 


As  a  very  large  margin  of  profit  is  indulged  in  by 
the  manufacturers  of  baking  powders,  we  subjoin  a  good 
formula  for  making  the  article  at  home  at  a  consider- 
able saving. 

261.  Baking  Povrder.  —  Mix  thoroughly  by 
powdering  and  sifting  together  several  times  the  follow- 
ing ingredients  ;  four  ounces  of  tartaric  acid,  and  six 
ounces  each  of  bi-carbonate  of  soda,  and  starch.    Keep 


the  mixture  in  an  air-tight  can.  ,<^; 

The  following  receipts  will  be  found  useful  and 
easy : 

262.  liOaf  Bread. — Sift  together  two  or  three 
times  one  pound  of  flour,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking 
powder,  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  fine  sugar ;  mix  with  enough  cold  sweet  milk  to 
make  the  dough  of  the  consistency  of  biscuit  ;  or,  if 
you  have  no  milk,  use  cold  water.  Work  the  dough 
only  long  enough  to  incorporate  the  flour  well  with 
the  milk  or  water ;  put  it  into  a  baking-pan  buttered 
and  slightly  warmed,  and  set  it  immediately  into  a 
hot  oven  ;  after  about  five  minutes  cover  it  with  paper 
so  that  the  crust  may  not  form  so  quickly  as  to  prevent 
rising  ;  bake  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  This 
bread  is  sweet  and  wholesome,  and  may  be  eaten  'by 
some  persons  whose  digestion  is  imperfect,  with  greater 
safety  than  yeast-fermented  bread. 

263.  Breakfast  Rolls. — Mix  well  by  sifting, 
one  pound  of  flour,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  pow- 
der, half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  heaping  tea- 
spoonful  of  pulverized  or  fine  sugar ;  into  a  small  por- 
tion of  the  above  rub  two  ounces  of  lard,  fine  and 


14^  THE   COOKING  MANUAL. 

smooth  ;  mix  with  the  rest  of  the  flour,  and  quickly 
wet  it  up  with  enough  cold  milk  to  enable  you  to  roll 
it  out  about  half  an  inch  thick  ;  cut  out  the  dough 
with  a  tin  shape  or  with  a  sharp  knife,  in  the  form  of 
diamonds,  lightly  wet  the  top  with  water,  and  double 
them  half  over.  Put  them  upon  a  tin,  buttered  and 
warmed,  and  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven. 

264.  Tea  Biscuit. — Mix  as  above,  using  the 
same  proportions,  and  cutting  out  with  a  round  bis- 
cuit-cutter ;  when  they  are  baked,  wash  them  over  with 
cold  milk,  and  return  them  to  the  oven  for  a  moment 
to  dry. 

265.  Finger  Biscuit. — Mix  as  above,  cut  out 
with  a  sharp  knife  in  strips  three  inches  long,  one  inch 
wide,  and  one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick  ;  lay  them  upon 
a  buttered  tin  so  that  they  will  not  touch,  brush  them 
over  with  an  &gg  beaten  up  with  one  tablespoonful  of 
milk,  and  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven. 

266.  Cream  Breakfast  Rolls. — Mix  as  above, 
substituting  cream  for  the  milk  in  moistening  the 
dough  ;  cut  them  out  with  an  oval  cutter,  two  inches 
long  and  one  and  a  half  inches  wide ;  brush  the  tops 
with  cream,  and  pull  them  slightly  lengthwise  ;  then 
fold  them  together,  leaving  a  slight  projection  of  the" 
under  side;  put  them  on  a  buttered  tin,  brush  the 
tops  with  cream,  and  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven. 

267.  Breakfast  Twist. — Mix  as  for  breakfast 
rolls,  cut  in  strips  three  inches  long  and  half  an  inch 
thick  ;  roll  each  one  out  thin  at  the  ends,  but  leave 
the  centre  of  the  original  thickness ;  place  three  strips 
side  by  side,  braid  them  together,  and  pinch  the  ends 


BREAD.  141 


to  hold  them ;  when  the  twists  are  all  made  out,  lay 
them  upon  a  buttered  tin,  brush  them  over  with  milk, 
and  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven.  A  little  fine  sugar 
dusted  over  the  tops  glazes  them  and  improves  their 
flavor. 

.  Hot  rolls  and  biscuits  should  be  served  well  cov- 
ered with  a  napkin. 

268.  How  to  freshen  stale  Bread. — A  loaf 
of  stale  bread  placed  in  a  close  tin  vessel,  and  steamed 
for  half  an  hour  will  be  completely  freshened. 

269.  Toast. — But  few  persons  know  how  to  pre- 
pare toast  properly.  It  should  be  made  with  the  aim 
of  evaporating  from  the  bread  all  the  superfluous  water, 
and  transforming  its  tough  and  moist  substance  into 
digestible  food  :  for  this  reason  the  slices  should  be  ex- 
posed gradually  to  heat  of  a  gentle  fire,  first  upon  one 
side  and  then  upon  the  other,  for  one  minute,  and  after 
that  they  may  be  toasted  golden-brown ;  at  this  stage 
it  has  become  pure  wheat  farina,  and  is  not  liable  to 
produce  acetous  fermentation  in  the  stomach  ;  besides, 
it  will  now  absorb  the  butter  thoroughly,  and  both 
substances  will  be  in  condition  to  be  freely  subjected 
to  the  action  of  gastric  juice,  and  consequently  will 
be  digested  with  ease.  Dry  toast  should  be  sent  to 
the  table  the  instant  it  is  made.  Buttered  toast  should 
be  set  into  the  oven  for  about  five  minutes  to  •  render 
it  crisp. 


INDEX. 


A  la  mode  beef 8i 

Anchovies 37 

Apple  Cake 122 

"        Custard 123 

Arrowroot  Jelly 126 

Asparagus  with  melted  butter 92 

Bacon  Roly-poly 113 

Baking  Powder 139 

Barley  Broth  with  Vegetables...   107 

Barley  Water 128 

Batter  for  Fry  ing 47 

Bay-leaves 20 

Beans,  fried 98 

Beef,  to  choose 16 

Beefsteak  for  children 120 

juice 132 

"        to  broil 43 

Beef,  Roast,  with  Yorkshire  Pud- 
ding      69 

"     Portuguese 43 

Beets,  baked 93 

Biscuit 140 

Blackberry  Jam.    119 

Blackfish,  baked 32 

Birds,  to  choose 18 

Boiled  Dishes 78 

Bouquet  of  Sweet  Herbs 20 

Brains,  fried,  with  Tomato  Sauce     50 

Bread 134 

"      Aerated,  Homemade 135 

"      and  Butter,  English 39 

"      Homemade 136 

"      how  to  freshen  stale. .;... .    141 

"      Loaf 139 

"      Milk 136 

"      Potato 138 

."      Pulled 138 

"      Rice 136 

Breakfast  Rolls  and  Twist. . . .  139,  140 

Brussels  Sprouts   93 

Bubble  and  Squeak 44 

Butter,  Epicurean 40 

"       Maitre  d' Hotel 33 

Cabbage,  Stuffed 94 

CalPs  Foot  Jelly 126 

"      Liver,  larded 51 

Caramel 24 

Carrot  Stew 99 

Cauliflower,  baked 94 

Cheese  Pudding 103 

"       Straws 39 

Chicken,  broiled  for  children. , . .   120 

"         Broth 131 

"        Fricassee 55 

"        fried  Spanish  style 55 

"       Jelly 131 


Chicken  minced  with  Macaroni.  56 

Roast 75 

Children's  Chapter,  The 116 

Chops,  broiled 119 

Chowder,  St.  James 34 

Clams,  to  choose 19 

Cock-a-leeky m 

Cod,  boiled  with  Oyster  Sauce. .  31 

Conde  Crusts 30 

Consomme 25 

Cookies 122 

Crabs,  to  choose 19 

Crackers  and  Marmalade 131 

Croutons 43 

Currants,  ripe 119 

Diet  for  Brain  Workers 15 

"      forchildren 116 

"      for  Invalids 125 

"      for  Rapid  Workers 15 

"      for  Steady  Workers 15 

Drinks,  nourishing 129 

"         refreshing 127 

Duck,  Roast,  with  Watercr esses..  75 

"       Salmi  of 57 

"       to  choose ..  17 

Eggs,  au  gratifi 59 

"      boiled  for  children 120 

"      Broth 129 

"      poached 25 

"      stuffed 59 

"      Tea , 129 

Entrees 51 

Farina..   130 

"      Gruel 130 

"      with  Fruit 122 

Fillet  of  Sole 34 

Fish,  d  la  bontie  eau 31 

"     a  I'eau  de  sel 31 

"     d  la  Hollandaise .....  31 

"     au  court  bouillon 31 

"     au  bleu 31 

"     Cakes,  Club  House ..  35 

"     Chowder 34 

"     Pudding . .  104 

"     to  choose.     19 

"     Warmed  up 36 

Flaxseed  Lemonade 128 

Flour,  to  choose 134 

Foods,  Carbonaceous 15 

"       Farinaceous loi 

"       Flesh-forming 15 

"      for  Children ...118 

"       Heat 51 

"       Nitrogenous 13 

"      Nutritious 130 


INDEX. 


143 


Forcemeat  for  Poultry 74 

Fowls,  boiled  with  Oyster  Sauce.     82 

"       Grilled 56 

"      to  choose 17 

Fruit  for  Children 117 

"      to  choose 19 

Gammon  Dumpling 112 

Geese,  to  choose 17 

Gingerbread 123 

Glaze 69 

Golden  Buck 38 

Goose,  Roast,  with  Onion  Sauce.     76 

Gravy  for  Roast  Meat 70 

Green  Peas 92 

Gruels 125 

Ham  and  Beans 98 

Ham,  boiled  with  Madeira  Sauce     80 

Hare,  civet  of 57 

"      Jugged 58 

"       to  choose 18 

Haslet  Ragout in 

Herbs,  sweet.. 19 

Herrings,  pickled 37 

Iceland  Moss  Chocolate I29 

Isinglass  Milk 127 

Italian  Cheese in 

Jelly  Water 128 

Jelly,  Bread 131 

Kidneys,  broiled 49 

"  stewed 44 

Kolcannon 99 

Kromeskys  with  Spanish  Sauce..     47 

Lamb,  epigramme  of. 45 

Larding 51 

Lentils loi 

"      boiled 104 

"      fried 105 

"      stewed 105 

Lettuce  stuffed 99 

Liver  Rolls 49 

Lobsters,  to  choose 19 

Macaroni 63 

"  Milanaise  style 65 

"         with  Bechamel  Sauce.     64 

"  with  Cheese 56 

"  with  Tomato  Sauce...     66 

"  Timbale  of 66 

Mackerel,  pickled 106 

Marinade  for  beef 81 

Marketing 15 

Mayonnaise 89 

Mock  Crab 3g 

Mushrooms,  baked 9g 

"  Pudding 95 

Mussels,  to  choose  19 

Mutton  haricot 45 

Leg  of 79 

Ragout 114 


Mutton  Stew 45 

"       three  dishes  from  neck  of.  108 

"       to  choose 16 

Norfolk  Dumplings 105 

Oatmeal  Porridge 103 

Onions,  glazed 95 

"       Saratoga 98 

Omelettes,  how  to  make 60 

"  Oriental  style 63 

"  Plain 60 

"  Spanish  style 62 

"  with  Cheese 61 

"  with  Ham 62 

"  with  Herbs 61 

"  with  Mushrooms 62 

"  with  Oysters 62 

"  with  Preserves 63 

"  with  Tongue 61 

Oysters,  broiled 132 

"       scalloped 37 

"       to  choose 19 

Ox-heart,  baked 13 

Parmesan  Cheese 64 

Parsnips,  stewed 100 

Partridge,  roast 77 

"  to  choose 18 

Peas  and  Bacon 114 

Pease  Pudding 102 

Pheasants,  to  choose 18 

Pigeons,  broiled , 57 

"         to  choose 17 

Pigs'  Feet,  broiled 54 

"  fried 109 

Pig's  Tongue  and  Brains no 

Polenta 104 

Pork  Chops  with  Curry 53 

"     Cutlets,  broiled 53 

"     neck  of 109 

"     Pie,  English , 54 

"    Roast,  with  Apple  Sauce  . .     72 

"     to  choose 16 

Poultry,  to  choose 16 

Potatoes,  baked 121 

"         Bermuda 97 

"        boiled 95 

"        boiled  for  children  ....   121 

"        boiled  in  jackets 97 

"        Duchesse 75 

"        Lyonnaise 96 

"         Parisian 42 

"        Pudding 106 

"        new 97 

"         Saratoga 97 

"        snow 97 

"        stuffed 96 

Pot-au-feu 114 

Quail,  to  choose 18 

Red  Cabbage 94 


144 


INDEX. 


Red  Herrings  with  Potatoes 103 

Relishes 37 

Rice,  boiled 54 

".    Caudle 127 

Roasts 68 

"      to  froth . .   69 

"      to  glaze 69 

"      to  test 69 

Rump  Steak 43 

Sago  Gruel 127 

"      Milk 127 

Salad,  Asparagus 85 

"       Cauliflower  85 

"       Dandelion 85 

Green  Pea 86 

Mint 85 

"       Nasturtium 86 

"       Oil 84 

"       Orange 86 

"       Shad-roe 85 

"       Spinach 86 

"       Spring 84 

"       Tomato 86 

"       Watercress 85 

Salad  Sauce,  Anchovy 88 

Cream 87 

Egg 88 

English 87 

Green  Remolade..  88 

Hot 88 

Mayonnaise 88 

Oil 88 

Piquante 87 

Ravigote 88 

Remolade 87 

Romaine 89 

Salmon  Steak 132 

Salt  Cod  with  Parsnips 105 

Sardines " 37 

"          Sandwiches 36 

Sauce,  Apple 73 

"      Bechamel 65 

"       Bread 77 

"      Caper 74 

"      Cranberry 79 

"       Dutch 36 

"      Madeira 80 

"      Mint,  cold, 72 

"      Mint,  hot 72 

"      Onion 76 

•'       Oyster 82 

"      Piquante 46 

"      Robert 53 

"      Romaine 76 

"      Spanish 46 

"      Tomato 59»  66 

*♦      Vanilla  Cream 67 

"      White,  with  Eggs 52 


Sauce,  White,  without  Eggs 56 

Scollops,  to  choose 19 

Scotch  Broth  with  Meat 27 

without  Meat 26 

Scotch  Crowdie 102 

Shad,  broiled '. 33 

Sheeps'  Kidneys,  broiled 49 

"        Tongues  with  Spinach...  48 

Side  Dishes 41 

Smelts,  fried 33 

Sole,  fillet  of 34 

Soup,  clear 25 

"      to  clarify 23 

"      to  flavor,  thicken,  and  color  24 

"      Lentil 29 

"      Macaroni 26 

"      Pea 29 

"      Potato 102 

"      Rice  and  Tomato. ...    ..  26 

"      Sorrel 28 

"      Spinach 27 

"      Vermicelli 26 

Spaghetti 64 

Spinach,  boiled 49 

Stuffing  for  meat 53 

"       Veal 71 

"       Sage  and  Onion 76 

Strawberry  Shortcake 123 

String  Beans  9a 

Tapioca  Jelly 127 

Toad-in-the-hole 112 

Toast 141 

Tomatoes,  broiled 90 

stufl'ed 9^ 

Tripe  and  Onions 113 

Tripe,  roasted no 

Turkey,   Roast,  with   Cranberry 

Sauce 73 

Turkey,  to  choose 73 

Turnips,  baked 95  _    , 

Veal,  Blanquette  of 51 '   \ 

"      Roast  Loin  of 7: 

"      Stuffed 5.. 

"      to  choose 16 

Vegetables 91 

"  to  choose 19 

"  to  boil 91 

Venison,  to  choose 18 

Water,  filtered 128 

Welsh  Rarebit 38 

Wild  Duck,  Roast 77 

"  .  to  choose 18 

Wild  Goose,  to  choose 18 

Woodcock,  to  choose  18 

Yeast  Homebrewed 137 

"    how  to  restore  bitter 136 

"    how  to  restore  sour 136 

Yorkshire  Pudding 70  '= 


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